Team_DC-Derrick Posted September 8, 2010 Report Posted September 8, 2010 and that will last for 10 min playing full tilt rollin down the highway.... and after that.. you rely on your alt to keep them charged... ORRRRRRRR just buy cheaper equipment if you dont want to beef up your electrical The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube Team DC Audio where theres a will theres a wall....... I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones
Twistedchild420 Posted September 8, 2010 Report Posted September 8, 2010 and that will last for 10 min playing full tilt rollin down the highway.... and after that.. you rely on your alt to keep them charged... ORRRRRRRR just buy cheaper equipment if you dont want to beef up your electrical Not sure what kind of batts your use to but....10 mins???? Seriously???? My POS Bass machine-2003 Hyundai Santa Fe on some shitty 22'sBed Liner Paint Job-Pioneer AVH 3200DVD4 DAD BD series 15's in a 4th Order (Bassheads ENT Design)4 Arc Audio XDI2000.1 for the woofers6 Cadence CVL68MBX 6.5's-Cadence CVL88MBX 8's-6 Cadence XT20 Supertweeters2 Arc Audio KS300.4's for mids and tweets1 Arc Audio ALD 10v Line DriverAll Audiotechnix Power wire1 DC Power 270XP High Output Alternator1 XS Power D3400 up front....6 XS Power D3100's in the rearAir Lift 1000 Bags in rear to help with suspensionIf your still reading this GFY.......
Team_DC-Derrick Posted September 8, 2010 Report Posted September 8, 2010 still not helping the subject... and you are not going to keep 2-3 batts charged on a stock alt if you play full tilt the whole time, and eventually it will still go bad... that is my point instead of buying 2 - 3 batts, buy 1 or 2 batts and 1 220~ amp alt and that will solve all your issues right there The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube Team DC Audio where theres a will theres a wall....... I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones
n8ball2013 Posted September 8, 2010 Report Posted September 8, 2010 if you want to half ass it skip the alt. /ballgame THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
slim2fattycake Posted September 8, 2010 Report Posted September 8, 2010 Get big three done and then a battery and just check out how your voltage does. If you don't have bad voltage drops then don't get an alt and if you do then you can either opt for a good alt or another battery. The good alt route will be a solution and the 2 extra batteries will be a fix. I don't know why but this thread pisses me off. Why are car audio hobbyists so retarded? One of the Op's post was about how he wanted to run 15s and that it might be too much for his electrical. WTF does the 15s have to do with your alt? Also, if you're going to spend a lot of money on subs and amps, why would you not want to protect that equipment with the most crucial part of your system AND car? Your alt charges everything in the car. It shits on you, you are stranded. Your subs blow, you can still get home. Damn, man. I'd spend the most money on my electrical over any other part of my system. O and that alt you checked out, I'd rather not get that. I wouldn't buy from a company that doesn't give any details at all. What does it do at idle? Does it even say? What rpm is that idle and what rpm is the 180 amps output at? Our generation has the INTERNET. It's the easiest way to find info and learn even a little about what you want. Sorry for the rant. I am done. Do as you want. It's your ride, system, and money. SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some.
n8ball2013 Posted September 8, 2010 Report Posted September 8, 2010 thank god someone else gets it. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
k3n12ock Posted September 8, 2010 Report Posted September 8, 2010 It's funny that people are saying to give up or buy half ass equipment because you don't want to buy a h/o alt. 05 xB - (2) EVIL 18s - (2) BC3500s - NO WALL Channel 1: http://www.youtube.com/k3n12ock Channel 2: http://www.youtube.com/MrK3n12ock2
Team_DC-Derrick Posted September 8, 2010 Report Posted September 8, 2010 no, we are saying if you want to skimp on the electrical, which is the most important part of any system, why buy all the high end good quality shit and not have the power to back it... The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube Team DC Audio where theres a will theres a wall....... I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones
n8ball2013 Posted September 8, 2010 Report Posted September 8, 2010 its an analogy ken. If he's willing to skimp on the alternator and electrical because he doesnt have the money then why spend the money? Its half assed. We get it. We like beat. We look cool cruising. But how cool does it look wiht your headlights strobing out and then your car is dead on teh shoulder because you smoked up your factory 85 amp alternaotr with 250 amps current demand? I cant say ive never ran 2000 watts off a stock alt because I have. and you know how that ended up? See the above. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
n8ball2013 Posted September 8, 2010 Report Posted September 8, 2010 We wont get into the undercurrent of amps and blowing shit off the boards either. Things like that. Or driving your amps into clipping from low voltage and smoking up that woofer. Your beat is only as good as its weakest link. If its a stock shitty alternator and electrical well your stuff is not going to be very good. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
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