I have a few Questions...

[gotspl?]

#1: How does the BIG III actually affect the performance of electrical and what does it do? does going from 10/8GA alt/bat power to 0gauge really help THAT much?

#2: Recommend me a battery $200 or under that will handle 1.5kwrms and allow me to keep my stock 90a alternator. been looking at (Stinger SPV-40 / SPV-77 , Optima Yellow Top/Red Top or maybe XS of some sorts.)

#3 Where can I get some affordable wing nut terminals for my battery so I can input my BIG III gauge and output my 0/1 amplifier gauge. (all ive seen are 0 & 4 gauge battery terminals im at a loss :-/) and if anyone can "make" some up for me I'd gladly pay for them I need about 6 of them, so price would help.

Thats all for tonight, thanks for anyone that may have my answers.

[TeamHT]

i think you might want to change some of your information.........but anyways......here goes....i might ramble...ive been blazing all day.

1) the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: alternator positive to battery positive, battery negative to chassis, and engine ground to chassis. basically upgrading the big 3 can lower the overall resistance of your electrical system. think of your vehicle's charging system as two different circuits, one consisting of your amplifier and your battery, and the other consisting of your alternator and your battery. the current in your electrical system flows from your positive battery terminal to your amp, from your amp's ground to the chassis, and then from the chassis back to the negative battery terminal. but how does it get to the positive terminal in the first place? that's where the alternator comes in. current in the second circuit flows from your alternator's positive post to the battery's positive terminal, then from the battery's negative terminal to the chassis, and from the chassis back to the block, which happens to be the grounding point for your alternator.

so, from your battery, you have the power wire going to the power terminal on your amplifier and then your amplifier is grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. from here the current needs a way to get back to the negative battery terminal, and that way is through the first of the "Big Three," the battery negative to chassis wire. upgrading this wire will "upgrade" the circuit between your battery and your amp by giving the current a larger path to flow through to get back to the battery.

basically, upgrading these wires will "upgrade" the circuit giving the current a larger path to flow through.

2) i dont know the prices offhand, mostly since i buy the d3100s, lol. but you can talk to nate with XS Power or Matt with Mechman to get some prices for you. they also have a great chart for mapping out which battery would work best for your needs.

3) normally i just get them from a local guy....but im in alaska. not going to be much help for you there.

[gotspl?]

Very informative thanks for all the help, im still in search of wingnut terminals and possible battery options.

[TeamHT]

well if youre only running the AP1500, i would suggest either the D1200 or D2400. prices...i dont know. but definitely find the links at the top of the page.

[gotspl?]

So it says the XS is a starting battery? can I just run this adjecent to my stock starter? so basically run my stock battery in the front and the XS1200 in the back? and you think this should level the playing field for my voltage @ 1500RMS?

[OrionStang]

XS Power should be able to help you with wing nuts and terminals as well. PM Nathan from XS Power.

[gotspl?]

ok will do can anyone vouch that a single EverLast starter (brand new) with stock 90amp alternator with BIG III and 0 gauge runs and a 1200 XS battery will run my 1500RMS? right now without big III or battery I get about 12.5/13 on full tilt, I want a solid 13-14v

[OrionStang]

12.5 full tilt isn't that bad. I would say your good but add a second battery, even just another 1200.

[gotspl?]

So should I get TWO 1200's or a single 2400? lol I mean right now if I drive or if I dont have my headlights on when im idle I can keep it above 11v but as soon as I throw my lights on and park that shit DROPS I want to maintain a good 12.5v even in idle , I can almost full tilt idle @ 12.5v now so a battery should keep me there I hope

[Skullz]

I would get the 2nd battery is it will have more capacity than the larger one alone would have but its more a personal thing to do one way or the other.