techforce Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 It went up in smoke becasue: The amp was ran at too low of an impedance. The amp was ran hot due to clipping or some other reason, and protect circuit didnt catch it, or failed. The amp had a lose power or ground. The amp dipped to low on voltage. The amp was vibrated to death, and with vertical mosfets they break easily and cause a chain reaction. You could of blew a sub, and protect circuit didnt catch it and the woofers voice coil created a dead short on the amp. Looking at the amp it seems like the powersupply went out, killing all the mosfets or most of them, and gate resistors. Repair costs are ruffly $150-$225 from db-r electronics. PSU was my take on it also... good breakdown bro! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techforce Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 I always try to run 300's cause a dead short will cause any fuse to pop, so why not have less current resistance... something iraggi had preached to me while spending time at his shop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 low voltage and running too small of fuses for the comps... at least get a battery back there... fuck the bullship burp box rules and try to run your amp with a 20 amp fuse... that fuse popping is a sign of a strain on the entire system, the fuse, cant pass enough power to the amp and the amp suffers... II will run 300 or 200 or none Too small of a fuse on your amp will not cost the amp to fry. Your theory sounds correct, but it is wrong Running a small fuse will not limit the amount of voltage or current going thru it. Ill break it down more below. But yes, I agree a rear battery is needed!! You toasted the power supply section... Thermal runaway is a bitch. B is right about the reasons why. Im always right bro I fried my fair share of things in the past, sometimes on purpose, sometimes accident or just not caring. LOL caused by excessive gain? Excessive gain and or bassboost. PSU was my take on it also... good breakdown bro! Thank you I always try to run 300's cause a dead short will cause any fuse to pop, so why not have less current resistance... something iraggi had preached to me while spending time at his shop... Fusing... Is it needed, of coarse! But will it stop a amp from blowing? No If something is going to blow, it will blow reguardless if there is a fuse inline on the power wire, or the amp itself, you could have 10 fuses on your 1 amp, but it wont stop the amp from releasing magic smoke, but will create a good amount of resistance thru your power wire. All fuses are ment for is protecting your vehicle from catching fire incase your power wire shorts out. The way fuses are created is to allow current to flow thru them. Each one is designed for its desired current flow needs and not blowing when being used at their max load (300amps in this case). Generally a dead short will not blow the fuse immediately. I encourage you to take a 300amp fuse and holder, connect 2 pieces of wire to it, and arch it a few times across a high rate agm battery (like a XS Power D3100 which max short circuit amps is 5000). More then likely if you dead short this fuse on this battery, you will see around 5000amps of current go thru it for a split second and it will not blow. A 300 amp fuse generally will not blow until it sees about 375-400+ amps of current for a good 5 seconds or so (sometimes longer, sometimes shorter. Every brand of fuse is different). At this point your shorted wire had enough time to get very hot and could easily start to melt your carpets or anything else along the run of power wire, or worst start a small fire. So the question is, does a 3000wrms amp need 300 amps of fusing? No, You could be perfectly safe with a 200amp fuse. As most of us should know by now a amp will almost never make rated power after you calculate impedance rise into the equation. Now if you add a rear battery or two this will result even a smaller fuse being needed on your main power wire(s) Since electricity will flow the path of least resistance. Which results in your amp pulling most its needed current from the rear batteries putting less strain on your power wire going front to back. /essay done, hopefully its some waht decent, pretty tired. lols Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 get it fixed quick before the world runs out of mosfets. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 get it fixed quick before the world runs out of mosfets. Too late Honestly although the smoking part is in the power supply I would say dollars to donuts there will be a shorted out part in the output section. Vertical mosfets + spring clips without the super duper DB-R strengthening technique means the output FETs break off, the other ones in parallel can't handle the load and burn which makes them go short circuit, however the power supply section blows the fuck up before the output section can smoke properly. My guess? Total rebuild, including output driver board, $400-500. Quote 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AI James Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 low voltage and running too small of fuses for the comps... at least get a battery back there... fuck the bullship burp box rules and try to run your amp with a 20 amp fuse... that fuse popping is a sign of a strain on the entire system, the fuse, cant pass enough power to the amp and the amp suffers... II will run 300 or 200 or none the fuse would pop before an amp blowing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke perez Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 what ever the problem is it suck good luck my friend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 Too late Honestly although the smoking part is in the power supply I would say dollars to donuts there will be a shorted out part in the output section. Vertical mosfets + spring clips without the super duper DB-R strengthening technique means the output FETs break off, the other ones in parallel can't handle the load and burn which makes them go short circuit, however the power supply section blows the fuck up before the output section can smoke properly. My guess? Total rebuild, including output driver board, $400-500. i want to know more about this strengthening technique. i thought you would want the parts to be flexible. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 My guess? Total rebuild, including output driver board, $400-500. Thats awefuly expensive to fix a powerbass amplifier. My spl dynamic 3000s where only $300 to rebuild the powersupply @ db-r i want to know more about this strengthening technique. i thought you would want the parts to be flexible. Db-R solders the mosfet legs from both the bottom side and top side of the pcb to stiffen them up as much as possible. The weak solder joints from the factory is what allows the mosfet legs to stress and break, keeping them flexible while fixing the amp will result in the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IH8PunkRok Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 wow lots of info. thank you guys for the enlightenment. i think im gonna lay this amp to rest and try a new project Quote -Matt2005 Dodge Magnum RTJVC KD-AVX1 2 PPI S580.2 Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters PRV 8MB450s Audio Legion 3500.1D 2 RE MT 18s 360 ah LiFePO4 BatterySHCA 2/0 155.2 @ 29 hzKicker CVR 15's buildDD 3512e buildMini T-Line Build(6) 8s BuildNightshade 15s Wall BuildMagnum AB XFL 12s BuildNewest Magnum Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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