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Posititve amp on positive sub and negative amp and negative sub, you'll notice that you'll be using the outside connections on the amp that are printed + -.

If you look at the amp under the screws it will say bridged and have lines to the outer terminals, you use those terminals hooking the sub up.

Ok, bridge the sub and make it 4 ohm to the amp. Got that. What I want to know is how to wire the sub in the box. There should be (2) +/- terminals on the sub itself.

+ -------- +

- -------- - if your looking at the sub magnet UP. or just run off one set of terminals on the sub?

^wires^

Pretty sure your sub is a SVC.

Alright, thanks everyone!

C Webbie~GO HUSKERS!

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4000 watts for $190...

Monos only for subs...

Max rated amps....

Sigh

$180....excuse me. I do my homework and can find anything online for super cheap.

VIBE286 - Lanzar 2 Ch 4000 Watt Viberant MOSFET Amplifier

More Info...Brand: LanzarItem #: 74549

Condition: Brand New Our Price $179.99

Retail Price $299.99 You Save $120.00

C Webbie~GO HUSKERS!

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You have no idea what you're doing. Seriously. I'm really sorry, I know what its like to have a budget but you think because you found the cheapest thing online you have accomplished something. While browsing the internet to find those deals, maybe you should do some research. Quality is always worth the extra bucks

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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4000 watts for $190...

Monos only for subs...

Max rated amps....

Sigh

$180....excuse me. I do my homework and can find anything online for super cheap.

VIBE286 - Lanzar 2 Ch 4000 Watt Viberant MOSFET Amplifier

More Info...Brand: LanzarItem #: 74549

Condition: Brand New Our Price $179.99

Retail Price $299.99 You Save $120.00

TeamHT is right, no trying to down you, just trying to learn ya, lol

there is a reason that most quality amplifiers that can do even 1000-1500 watts (RMS that is) are no cheaper than 200 new, if the number doesnt have RMS beside it, its not a real number the amp is capable of most likely

* 2 x 1000 RMS at 4 OHMS

* 2 x 2000W MAX at 4 OHMS

* 1 x 4000W MAX at 4 OHMS Bridged

* 2 x 1650W at 2 OHMS

* MOSFET

* Electronic Crossover Network

* Bass Boost Circuit

* 2 Ohms Stereo Stable

* Anti-Thump Turn-On

* Illuminated Top Panel

* Soft Turn ON/ Off

* High & Low Level Inputs

* Power & Protection LED Indicators

* Advanced Protection Circuitry

* Remote Control Bass Booster

* Dimensions: 11.06'W x 2.24'H x 21'L

* T.H.D: < 0.04%

* S/N Ratio: > 90dB

* Channel Separation: >65dB

* Frequency Response: 15 Hz - 35KHz

VIBE-286 - Lanzar VIBE 286 2 Ch 4000 Watt Viberant MOSFET Amplifier

see that rms number, its actual power is rated at 10o0rms per channel so that is half what they state, and id be hard pressed to think lanzar puts out true power, but ive never used one

for just a little more money, you can get a proper monoblock for under 250 that does anywhere form 1000-1500 rms depending on the company audiopipe, audioque, hifonics

as previously stated you really do not want a multichannel amp to run your subs

i couldnt find any fuse ratings on that amp, whether it is fuses directly on amp or external, couldnt find it

definitely do more research, read up on here, and save yourself some hassle, of course there are always people to swear buy every brand ven the bad ones(FUNKY PUPS BABY) they may work for some people, but you can get quality subs and amps for about the same price so wy not get what you know is quality instead of what you hope will work

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TeamHT is right, no trying to down you, just trying to learn ya, lol

there is a reason that most quality amplifiers that can do even 1000-1500 watts (RMS that is) are no cheaper than 200 new, if the number doesnt have RMS beside it, its not a real number the amp is capable of most likely

for just a little more money, you can get a proper monoblock for under 250 that does anywhere form 1000-1500 rms depending on the company audiopipe, audioque, hifonics

as previously stated you really do not want a multichannel amp to run your subs

The 350 watt RMS amp (2 channel, bridged into 4ohm) will work just fine for that sub. Why does everyone keep insisting that you can't use multi channel amps on subs? That amp isn't the best amp around but it will sure do him fine until he gets a better amp.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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Posititve amp on positive sub and negative amp and negative sub, you'll notice that you'll be using the outside connections on the amp that are printed + -.

If you look at the amp under the screws it will say bridged and have lines to the outer terminals, you use those terminals hooking the sub up.

Ok, bridge the sub and make it 4 ohm to the amp. Got that. What I want to know is how to wire the sub in the box. There should be (2) +/- terminals on the sub itself.

+ -------- +

- -------- - if your looking at the sub magnet UP. or just run off one set of terminals on the sub?

^wires^

First, you bridge an amp, not a sub :)

Your amp should have a diagram on how to hook it up bridged, most likely a + terminal from one channel and a - terminal from the other channel.

Your sub only has one + and - input, a single coil.

That ground pounder whatever it was amp is not that great, make sure you are feeding it a clean signal and setting the amp to output a clean signal. Whatever you do, don't try to get more out of that amp than you can. 350 watts is a good power range for that sub, you can give it more but you certainly don't have too.

To reiterate, DO NOT try to get more out of that amp that you can. If you set the gain to max cause it is loudest that way you will fry you sub and possibly amp too. That is a cheap amp but if you use it carefully it can do OK. You have a decent subwoofer that will do very well with a really good amp, so make your next priority a new amp.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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TeamHT is right, no trying to down you, just trying to learn ya, lol

there is a reason that most quality amplifiers that can do even 1000-1500 watts (RMS that is) are no cheaper than 200 new, if the number doesnt have RMS beside it, its not a real number the amp is capable of most likely

for just a little more money, you can get a proper monoblock for under 250 that does anywhere form 1000-1500 rms depending on the company audiopipe, audioque, hifonics

as previously stated you really do not want a multichannel amp to run your subs

The 350 watt RMS amp (2 channel, bridged into 4ohm) will work just fine for that sub. Why does everyone keep insisting that you can't use multi channel amps on subs? That amp isn't the best amp around but it will sure do him fine until he gets a better amp.

Of course you can use multichannels for subs...and monoblocks for your front stage...the point is...

Kynto never said you can't, he suggested the easier more efficient route.

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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TeamHT is right, no trying to down you, just trying to learn ya, lol

there is a reason that most quality amplifiers that can do even 1000-1500 watts (RMS that is) are no cheaper than 200 new, if the number doesnt have RMS beside it, its not a real number the amp is capable of most likely

for just a little more money, you can get a proper monoblock for under 250 that does anywhere form 1000-1500 rms depending on the company audiopipe, audioque, hifonics

as previously stated you really do not want a multichannel amp to run your subs

The 350 watt RMS amp (2 channel, bridged into 4ohm) will work just fine for that sub. Why does everyone keep insisting that you can't use multi channel amps on subs? That amp isn't the best amp around but it will sure do him fine until he gets a better amp.

Of course you can use multichannels for subs...and monoblocks for your front stage...the point is...

Kynto never said you can't, he suggested the easier more efficient route.

Fair enough, there was another post that said monoblocks were for subs and multichannels were for mids and highs that I was more referring too. Although in this case, the 2 channel amp (aside from being cheap) really does work just fine for what this guy wants.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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