dereileak Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Honestly there are lots of reasons to why this is happening, or possible reasons at least. One could be the power wire you are using, some power wire is OFC and will have a very low voltage drop, some is CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) and although it isnt bad, you will see a small voltage drop due to an increased resistance.With grounding, hmmmm, I have heard of many people running a ground wire all the way back up to the battery, which should be sufficient, its no different then any other DC power supplied item, you have the same size wire for ground and power, but at the other hand it can be unnecessary also. The body of the car will complete the circuit back to the battery, as long as you ground it well (get paint of grounding surface, find a decent spot to ground). I myself drilled through my car floor and ran two 0/1 gauges that go right to the frame rails of my car, and the rails go all the way to the front of the vehicle back to the battery. The only problem with mine is it needs to be sealed or you can have rust develop around the grounding point. Seat belt bolts arnt usually very good because they usually eventually have some kind of tack wield holding them on with another piece of metal. Some vehicles like vans have perminate bolts that actually have the seat belt screw on to it, and those arn't too bad to ground too. In my opinion this is what I would do, I would go buy some new power wire from a good company, ex: Kicker, KNU, Rockford, Shok, even stinger. They will cost more, but your amp will be more efficient with the correct voltage and should solve this issue. I myself always look towards the future, so even though your not running much for watts and could get by with an 8 gauge kit, I would do 4 gauge at least if your thinking of upgrading someday, that way your all set. KNU's Kolossal Flex 4 gauge will safely do up to 120 amps, which at 14.4v is ~1750 watts, then you have to consider amp efficiency. that would give you lots of room for upgrading, and its like 45 bucks for a kit KNU kit link If you need help, take some pics of your trunk area or where ever you are mounting your amp, and we can help you find a good grounding spot. You want a solid piece of the cars frame that makes it back to the battery. Good luck. Also what brand of power wire did you get, just curious. Also as said before soldiering your terminals will maximize there flow of electrons and make sure they never come off. One I thing I do is always sand down the shiny parts of the terminals to bare copper or whatever they make them from, that also reduces the resistance for the electrons to flow. Its very possible you may just need to tighten your terminal against your battery. How does your power wire hook up to the battery up front? Taking a pic would make this 500% easier. Dereileak 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billy101 Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 It was wire that we had left over from when we ran wire for our hot tub. It probably isn't the best and I will definitely look into getting better wire. Would 2 gauge from the battery to the amp, and then a 0 gauge ground from the amp to one of the strut towers or a ground in the trunk. Would that be better? I would probably need to upgrade by fuse holder, but that's feasable. I will take a picture of the wire I've got right now and I will move the ground to one of the struts in the trunk when I get home from school. I will clean all the terminals on the amp and ensure that the connections are secure and clean. I really appreciate all the help this far, I will update later today with the new voltage reading after I move the ground. Thanks! First System 2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles. Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U. Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way. Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm. Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge. Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Wait you mean you used HOUSE ELECTRICAL WIRE? Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 uhh theres your problem mate. you're using wire that isnt even intended to be in a car that has super thick strands and very little of them. im honestly seriously surprised how that wire didnt melt the insulation and cause a short/fire in your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Fizzy Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 its most likely the house wire you used. but it could be a bad fuse/fuse block too. especially if your front battery is good, but your back is bad. under construction I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me. u hate c-fizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 uhh theres your problem mate. you're using wire that isnt even intended to be in a car that has super thick strands and very little of them. im honestly seriously surprised how that wire didnt melt the insulation and cause a short/fire in your car. why would it melt, 6 gauge is plenty for his amp. my guess is also a bad connection somewhere. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 uhh theres your problem mate. you're using wire that isnt even intended to be in a car that has super thick strands and very little of them. im honestly seriously surprised how that wire didnt melt the insulation and cause a short/fire in your car. why would it melt, 6 gauge is plenty for his amp. my guess is also a bad connection somewhere. The wire is house wire... Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 uhh theres your problem mate. you're using wire that isnt even intended to be in a car that has super thick strands and very little of them. im honestly seriously surprised how that wire didnt melt the insulation and cause a short/fire in your car. why would it melt, 6 gauge is plenty for his amp. my guess is also a bad connection somewhere. The wire is house wire... house wire melts? probably shouldn't use it in houses. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 uhh theres your problem mate. you're using wire that isnt even intended to be in a car that has super thick strands and very little of them. im honestly seriously surprised how that wire didnt melt the insulation and cause a short/fire in your car. why would it melt, 6 gauge is plenty for his amp. my guess is also a bad connection somewhere. The wire is house wire... house wire melts? probably shouldn't use it in houses. Oh didn't see kranny said it melts. He probably meant something else. Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 It was wire that we had left over from when we ran wire for our hot tub. It probably isn't the best and I will definitely look into getting better wire. Would 2 gauge from the battery to the amp, and then a 0 gauge ground from the amp to one of the strut towers or a ground in the trunk. Would that be better? I would probably need to upgrade by fuse holder, but that's feasable. I will take a picture of the wire I've got right now and I will move the ground to one of the struts in the trunk when I get home from school. I will clean all the terminals on the amp and ensure that the connections are secure and clean. I really appreciate all the help this far, I will update later today with the new voltage reading after I move the ground. Thanks! keep the + and - runs the same size. but other than that, that's a good plan. Wait you mean you used HOUSE ELECTRICAL WIRE? last i checked, copper was copper. the only difference here would be the jacket and that wont melt from the current that the wire can handle. just wont hold up to a hot engine. depending on the brand of corse. uhh theres your problem mate. you're using wire that isnt even intended to be in a car that has super thick strands and very little of them. im honestly seriously surprised how that wire didnt melt the insulation and cause a short/fire in your car. why would it melt, 6 gauge is plenty for his amp. my guess is also a bad connection somewhere. The wire is house wire... house wire melts? probably shouldn't use it in houses. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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