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voltage differences at battery and at amp


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Hi everyone..

I got an Eclipse 3322 400 320watt amp in my 01 impala ls. It's being bridged to output 320 watts @ 4ohms.

I have two 6 gauge runs of pos and negative from the battery to my trunk. At the battery, and the fuse holder it's reading 14.23 - .28 when the car is idling. When the car's idling, at the amp, it's only seeing about 12.3 steadily. Any reason why? Why am I losing 2 volts from the front to the back?

First System

2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles.

Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator

Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U.

Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way.

Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w

Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm.

Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin

Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge.

Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. :)

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because you ran a ground wire all the way from the battery probably. Shorten the ground so its only 1-2 feet long.

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upgrade your wire.

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because you ran a ground wire all the way from the battery probably. Shorten the ground so its only 1-2 feet long.

Oh really? I really only ran the ground to the battery because its my first system and am unsure of where to ground to in the trunk. Would the bolt holding down my seatbelts work?

First System

2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles.

Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator

Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U.

Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way.

Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w

Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm.

Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin

Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge.

Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. :)

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that could work but usualy those bolts are big. there may be a perfect size bolt on top of the shock tower if the car has struts. make sure u sand the paint around the area to bare metal too.

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Don't use seat bolts or seatbelt bolts, they are crappy grounds. The best ground you can have is by drilling a hole through a good thick chunk of metal (not just sheet metal) and sanding down to bare metal and nut and bolt the ground there. Otherwise shock tower bolts work decent.

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that could work but usualy those bolts are big. there may be a perfect size bolt on top of the shock tower if the car has struts. make sure u sand the paint around the area to bare metal too.

Alright, yes the car does have struts. They are easily accessable. I will see if I can use one of those tomorrow when I get home from school before I hook up my RE SRX12D2.

Shortening the ground should most likely fix my voltage problem?

@Rebel and guy above him..

Alright so nogo with the seat belt bolts. I will take everything out of the trunk and try and find a better place than the strut towers to ground to. If i sand off the paint, should I use one of those washers with the pointy spikes in it to "dig" into the metal? Would that be a secure ground?

First System

2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles.

Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator

Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U.

Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way.

Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w

Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm.

Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin

Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge.

Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. :)

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Link your batteries together with one run of 0 instead of 2 runs of 6, you'll see an improvement in voltage.

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