sprkn_ranger Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Yes fuse both. One in between the alt and pos terminal, and one between the battery and the amp. Just make sure you put the fuses as close to the battery as possible so you have the least amount of unprotected wire as possible. And if your going to run a 1/0 wire back to the amp and the amp only accepts 4gauge, then just trim the wire down till it will fit in the terminal. Or you can buy some reducing terminals. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubNDodge Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Yes fuse both. One in between the alt and pos terminal, and one between the battery and the amp. Just make sure you put the fuses as close to the battery as possible so you have the least amount of unprotected wire as possible. And if your going to run a 1/0 wire back to the amp and the amp only accepts 4gauge, then just trim the wire down till it will fit in the terminal. Or you can buy some reducing terminals. Ok thanks a lot, do you have an idea of what size fuse I will need for either spot? '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Yes fuse both. One in between the alt and pos terminal, and one between the battery and the amp. Just make sure you put the fuses as close to the battery as possible so you have the least amount of unprotected wire as possible. And if your going to run a 1/0 wire back to the amp and the amp only accepts 4gauge, then just trim the wire down till it will fit in the terminal. Or you can buy some reducing terminals. Ok thanks a lot, do you have an idea of what size fuse I will need for either spot? Yea, fuse to whatever the wire is rated for. If the wire is rated at 250A then fuse with a 250A fuse, if it's rated at 300A then use a 300A fuse. Its ok to use a smaller fuse just don't use a fuse that is larger than the wires rating. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcincy Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Great tutorial. I just wanted to comment and share my results. I just did my big 3 upgrade today. i have an 08' chevy impala. i did not use speaker wire for it is way to expensive for 1/0. so i went to home depot and got some 1/0 600 volt stranded copper and used it. before i upgraded i was getting 12.2 volts to my amp. After I upgraded i am at 15.2 volts. This seems crazy. Are these typical results. I am using stock battery and alternator as well. what kind of results have other gotten? thanks, tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiKaZz74 Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 so how would i go around doing the big 3 here? and am i right on the engine ground? theres a steel bar connected to that green wire going to the engine My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donovanl12 Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 I need to do this soon. My amp power wire (4 guage) is thicker than my stock battery wires, they're only 8 guage lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yakofamily Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 i noticed the power wire going from my alt to my battery up front is not fused should i fuse it ? also the cable at the alt looks burnt like 6 inches of it turned black should i be worried ? brooklyn style Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiseracing2 Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 I was wondering, what wattage range would you recommend doing this in? I'm about to get a 900 RMS Amp pushing a T1D212 and also am running a kenwood 4 channel, do yall think I should do this? Sorry, I'm only 15 and am still learning but I love everything about car audio and am trying to learn as much as possible! Thanks! -1994 Dodge Dakota -Lifted -Murdered out -Pro comp beadlock rims and General Grabber At2 tires -Rockford T1D212 -Rockford 750.1 at 910w RMS -Focal Solid 4 at 75x4 -Rockford T1 6.5 up front -Rockford Punch 5x7 in rear -Sony BT38U headunit with bluetooth,etc -Rockford 4 Gauge -Singer 250 amp alt! -Race accessory HIDS _______________________________________________ -Soon to come- D3400 Kicker 2500.1 Fi BL 12[/font] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SixTwoRado Posted September 30, 2012 Report Share Posted September 30, 2012 Hey guys Im going to be upgrading my grounds when I do my next build in december. Ive asked around a bunch on my other forums and maybe some of you will know. Ive read up all about the system online and in my factory service manual, but Im not sure exactly what I should do with it when upgrading my grounds. My 06 nissan frontier has a variable voltage control system. It is a sensor that is wrapped around the ground wire that goes from the engine bracket and connects to the battery. So the sensor is just a few inches down on the ground connection to the battery, like in this picture. My basic understanding is that the voltage regulator basically detects the discharge rate of the battery depending on the amount of stuff running and the load. It sends the signal to the ECM and then tells the alternator how much to charge and output. It also is there for increasing MPG I believe so that if the alternator is not needed at full output the regulator can tell it this and save fuel. Just my basic understanding. In the FSM nissan specifically says "For this model, the battery current sensor that is installed to the negative battery cable measures the charging/discharging current of the battery and performs various engine controls. If an electrical com- ponent is connected directly to the negative battery terminal, the current flowing through that compo- nent will not be measured by the battery current sensor. This condition may cause a malfunction of the engine control system and battery discharge may occur. Do not connect an electrical component or ground wire directly to the battery terminal." So the question is, what do I do when upgrading the big three wires and still get the right signal and max output from my stock alternator. Should I get rid of it completely? Just bypass it with the new grounds? Or someone was saying, that they think I might be able to somehow fit the new sensor on the new 1/0 gauge???? Thanks for any help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SixTwoRado Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Anyone? What should I do about this voltage regulator? ^^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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