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Just spoke with Orion. Their "support" said without running the amps in bridged mode you can't run a single remote level control. When I asked "If I run the amps in bridged mode can I run each amp independently so that I can use one bass knob and NOT wire the speakers between the two amps?" his answer was "Hahaha...you can TRY!". Awesome. At this point IF I was going to go the multiple 3000.1 route I think my plan would be an inline rca signal attenuator before the two amps, run a bass knob per amp set wide open and then breakout the clipping leds to a custom display in the dash (this was the main reason I wanted one knob....clipping indicator.). Ridiculous that in 2024 this is something not built into the amps.

Need some insight from some of the more experienced members. The scenario: I have two Fi Audio Halycon 15"s (basically the Omegas with a few more tweaks). Based on the limited information they can handle at least 4500 watts. Current amp (still building the system): Orion HCCA 3000.1 dsplx Thoughts: Plan is/was to run the two subs wired at a final 1 ohm load (they are 1 ohm dvc subs). Problem is of course impedance rise. Modelling this in Winisd it will essentially rise to 2+ ohms around the tuning frequency of my enclosure (32 hz) resulting in less than desired power output (amp dynos and clamp videos show around 4800 watts at 1 ohm with a system voltage of 14.4-ish volts which is what I am limited to in my system). That's a bit underpowered for these beasts I think. Question: Thinking of adding a second 3000.1. dsplx and using one per sub. That would allow me to wire each sub to .5 ohms which with impedance rise would present about a 1.2 ohm load to each amplifier resulting in more power PER sub. Not totally sure about this option as I am already space constrained on the amp rack AND I would need a second lithium bank and quite a bit more power runs and blocks. Alternatively: COULD ditch the 3000.1 route and move up to the Orion 12500.1 dsplx. That would fit on the rack, might need to add a second lithium bank still, but same wire runs and blocks would work. Concern is once again impedance rise as with one amp and 2 subs I would still be left with a 1 ohm wiring configuration with rise moving the effective load to 2+ ohms. Also: IF I went the two amp route, how do you control the bass level without having to go with a bass knob per amp? In-line signal attenuator? THOUGHT about strapping the two 3000.1's since that would allow me to use one bass knob, BUT once again I keep coming back to the impedance dilemma and effective output. Help appreciated!

Finally got around to making a video of my custom setup for everyone on here. Alpine stereo Two evl12s flat pack box kit Russian Baltic Birchwood, 2k amp silver tinned ofc wire and Taramps 4 ch amp 800w for the highs Just a regular old lead acid battery 2007 Merc. I will try to post the video on here directly if it doesn't work in case I will post this YouTube link to the same video so everyone can view. https://youtu.be/A_-y_UDiLCo?feature=shared PXL_20240420_193249332.TS.mp4

gotcha a its in a 2003 bmw 325i (2)Skar SVR 12" subs, Skar audio RP2000.1

It comes down to the minimum stable impedance your amp support, for a D1 wired in parallel you would need a 0.5 ohm stable amp.

For RF you can go with a larger net volume than suggested and tuning should be within 30-35Hz, subs up / port back for your type of vehicle, something like in the figure below:

The port in the middle (shared port) adds displacement because there are two non common walls instead of one of the side port design. Besides you don't say what skar subs or power or vehicle you are running which are also important in deciding a design.

That is superb work sir, it reminds me of how this forum was back in it's heyday. If anything I would remove some of the damping material close to the port inner ends as it may affect performance and tuning somewhat, something like 2-3 inches each side.

Ok...well I built the box over this past weekend. It was really pretty easy. I can't wait to see how it sounds. All parts were cut out using the table saw, I did have to trim the longer pieces to the correct length with a circular saw and fence...but no biggie. I started by laying out where things were going to go. This helps pre-drill holes and also allows you to double check the port spacing at all points. I started assembly with the interior port walls. Next were the bottom and sides. If you have never used these clamps....just buy them. They are worth every penny!! Here we are almost completely done. Just need to put in the wire and mount the subs and it will be read for a trial run.

Yes Sir, the ioxus is stright with being under the hood. It's the 8 long runs of positive and negative along with the cap/headway distribution to the Amps I am questioning.

So, do you recommend for daily to go ahrad with the specifications on the manual??, mines are for daily use, thanks.

Most head units clip a bit but you set your amplifier gains so that you get all the output of your system before you reach the volume level at which the head unit clips. While learning to setup your system gains properly (with a DD-1 or a cheap little scope) is what you likely need, it wouldn't hurt to get a modern head unit with a better DAC and higher line level outputs voltage, your really old head unit has only 2 Volt, you can get a 4 volt head unit just by not going for the cheapest bottom of the line head unit and those will still be reasonably inexpensive.

There is a thread for that: Say it should be around 40 Hz but if your box is for music and not burps, you don't want to tune close to resonance, it will likely make your system pretty bad. Your subs are for daily not competition.

Make sure that cap is safe under the hood !

Hi, I am installing 2 RF Power HX2 15" to a 1997 Tahoe 2 door, I am designing the enclosure but I would like to know the resonant frequency for this car so I can tone the port at same frequency, does anyone know what is this frequency for this vehicle?? I would really appreciate your support, thanks. Regards!!!

Box External Dimensions Width × Height × Depth 34.00" × 13.00" × 22.12" Material Thickness 0.75" Net Internal Volume 3.75 ft3 Tuning Frequency 35 Hz Port Area 52 inch2 Port Inlet Width × Height 4.52" × 11.50" Port Length 21.69" This is the box design i came up with for 2 12" Skar audio subs. These calculations are for front facing subs with front facing side port. But I want the subs pointing up with a center port. how do i figure out the port length cuts for center port. I'm assuming i cant just move the port to center and use the same length or can I?

I’m sure it could be better but this is a sundown x15 on sundown 2500. I have since upgraded to the def bonce 4900. Havnt made a new video yet. For my first loud system and first system with a 15 I am pretty happy with it. Jack just doin his dance lol IMG_0815.mov

What is a good budget friendly head unit to get the most out of a system? I currently have a pioneer deh5600-bt that I feel is not sufficient enough. It seems to clip a little too early. Maybe I’m wrong? I am open to suggestions.

Hello, need some advice. I have a 96 ah Lithium Headway Bank and IOXUS ultra cap and a JS-320 Alt. Going to delete my AGM and put the Cap in my battery position. I am not sure what the correct way to run my power and grounds. I have 3 amps 1 TARAMPs 3K Smart Bass and 2 TARAMPs 800x4. Do I make a distribution block and run all my amps, lithium and cap power wires to the distro block? I also am not sure if i need dual runs straight from my alternator to my lithium and one run from my Cap to the lithium? I have attached a diagram of my plan and any assistance would be appreciated. I am keeping my grounds the same so if i run 2 powers from my alt to battery then i will also run 2 grounds. Of course i will be running circuit braker type fuses between all the power runs but just did not show them in the diagram. Trying to figure out if these runs are quote unquote correct. Anyone running something similar to 96ah of Headway cells with a battery delete. i run my truck about once on the week day and sometimes on the weekend. dont know if the headways will drain. but the charging is so fast I think i could start it every now and then if needed.

Does anybody know where I can find 4/0 heat shrink ? The SMD logo.

If I build a blow through system in a quad cab truck with 2-18's, 2-15's, 4-12's, 4-10's, 6-8's, can I run all the ports through the tunnel into the cab? All on 24db/oct x-overs with minimal overlap. Can all of the ports be close to each other or do they need to be separated? All 4th order boxes in the bed and only the ports enter the cab.

80 would be around 1030 on a clock