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I'm looking for suggestions on speakers for a classic car. Nothing crazy. I'd like a pair of 6.5s and a 8" sub. The 6.5s will go in a center console. Just need something that will sound decent over the exhaust. Considering 6x9 in the rear deck as well but I have no desire to cut it or the door panels right now. Looking for best bang for the buck under $100 on a pair of 6.5s.

Hey All, I'm working on a design for a center console build for my 2007 Ram 1500. (Sub up/Port back) Here is where I am at, and I was hoping for some input if I should be concerned with any loading issues or odd interaction in regards to the area above the entrance of my port. Talking through my logic here for design context - I originally intended for an L-port, but will not have clearance after the bend and it would put my port entrance too close to the bottom of the baffle. I am currently at my maximum dimension restrictions, so to work around this I adjusted the port as seen in my images below. I added the baffle extension around the sub to give me 1.75" of clearance between the subs pole vent and the top of the port, 1" just didn't feel like enough. This will be powered by a JP23V2 at either 0.7 or 1-ohm, have not decided yet. Port area was determined by trying to cut down on port velocity as much as possible. As it will be a center console, I chose to double-wall everything except the bottom of the box - which I intend to use some 2" dowels in the port (double walled port) to hopefully add a little extra rigidity along with all of the weight resting on that bottom panel. Torres is accounting for all single wall plus an extra baffle. When I modeled, I included the extra 1.5" for the double-walls in the appropriate dimensions. I will be molding the outermost edges towards the front to the dash itself, but kept everything square in the initial Sketchup model for simplicity. Trying ImageShack for the first time so hopefully images upload correctly...

1st design might be ok depending on amp. its a smidgen larger than recommended, but it might be ok... usually on oversized you get less playable bandwidth, but more output (louder). its also a little more risky to the subs.

2nd design looks to be ok off hand... ill run it through winisd when i get off work later tonight and ill let you know what i come up with

I've never used the jl, but i used to install the jbl stuff. if you are not planning on putting an amp on them the jbl will still be a good choice. I've installed the gto series both on head unit power and amplified. they do well with head unit power and sound good. adding the amp to them just really increases the volume while maintaining the clarity they have naturally.

Hey guys, in a bit of a pickle. So I had a set of JL C1 6.5s and one of the tweets got damaged but that's not the issue. My concern is the woofer. A buddy of mines has a pair of the jbl gto 609c and i really like how they sound. Now, I can simply get another pair off tweeters an all is well with my C1 woofers but I was never really to pleased with the amount of mid bass and overall clarity, response & output of the C1 woofer, but I never had an amplifier hooked up, just off head unit power so am sure they can do plenty better. I am also planning to buy a small amplifier soon. Any advise on or any experience if I should keep the C1s woofer or will I be more pleased with the JBL gtos. https://kh.jbl.com/car-speakers/GTO609C_.html https://www.jlaudio.com/products/c1-650-car-audio-speakers-c1-speaker-systems-99043 Many thanks in advance.

put the box on the passenger side and scoot that seat forward.... its not as wide as the box you posted. the one you posted is 38 wide the one i posted is 25 wide. its up to you. i just posted one that i had made up for my old job. i could design one for you, but i do charge for the design process. if thats something you are interested in, let me know and we can iron out the details

I appreciate your input, and responding so quickly! I think the box you're describing will push my seat forward even more than the one I built though. This is the original box I built

just do me a favor and post some pics and maybe a vid or 2 when you get it built and playing

thats a prefab i had designed out for an audio shop i used to work for. single x15 salt 2 was the combo, but t1500bdcp should be just fine. sub and port are both on the 20" side of the box. face it up when in the cab and put the port passenger side. should get down edit: not a prefab, but a box i designed and we always had one or 2 built up... it was prefabricated when we sold it, so i just call it prefab

Does anyone have dimensions, or know of the best way to go about putting a sundown x15 in a 1998 extended cab ranger? I started by building a box to sundowns recommended size. It sounded good, but pushed my seat too far forward. So I went with a wedge style, with the sub in between seats. But I forgot to account for woofer movement. I listen to hip/hop, rebassed and decaf primarily. And want it to hit as hard as possible with what I'm working with. I've got a Fosgate t1500-1bd for now. I've got a full woodshop, and know how to build. I just don't know my way around design programs. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Nobody?

I am talking about a sealed sub enclosure which is completely closed and air cannot go in or out of the enclosure: Your sub seems optimized to work in a sealed enclosure however it may be possible to use in ported, the advantage with ported is that is much louder for the same power as a sealed would be.

What's your definition of sealed?

Hi, so I had 2 wires 4AWG from +Battery/Alternator, 1 wire 4AWG from -Battery/Motor Ground and 1 wire 1/0awg from -Battery/Chassis, volts were OK and not too many unestability when playing, so i made modifications changing the 4awg from -Battery/Motor by a 1/0 wire, and added 2wire 4awg to the -Battery/Chassis of alternator, I was expecting to have a better volt stabiliy but what I found now is that the volt meter in the dash goes from 14volt - 11.5volt when I increase bass, before of this change it was also doing it but the volts didtn go that low, probaly it goes to 12-12.5volt the lower, is this normal if I added "better ground"???, in the case of subwoofer I hear that it hit better than before, just not sure if going lower in voltage is correct as the big3 supposed to improve that part, thanks. PS I hope I explain correct what I want to say

Thanks Joe, Ill try a box like that, really appreciate it, my actual is with aeroport and is about 32Hz I think, so I am not that bad I just wanted to be sure that everything was OK and getting the best for those subwoofers

You got it working so that's nice, you need to properly install your amp though, it might get damaged like that, otherwise looks good, it's playing pretty loud from what can bee seen.

Main question is can the opening of all the ports be even or do I need to have the different ports staggered in length?

Looking at sound quality only

Thanks I will do that when I take the subs out for finishing the box exterior. I am thinking I am going to Bondo all the screw holes, route all the edges and have it sprayed with bedliner. I normally carpet them...but I think for this application I had rather have the bedliner finish. It sounds really good so far. I have not had time to set the amp gains with my oscilloscope nor have I tuned the whole system yet. The box does not require much power to get really loud. Thanks again for all your help!!!

The sub parameters make it ideally suited for sealed, nonetheless it looks like it would work in ported but they offer no Xmax parameter so I can only speculate.

I came up with a shared port design which is approximately what you intended to do in size and performance. Subs up in trunk cars is not recommended due to heavy trunk lid rattling, if you choose to do the subs up just do the cutouts in the top wall instead. The other thing to comment is that many european vehicles have almost air tight trunks, that would result in reduced performance, if removing your rear seats results in you being able to see the trunk, you are ok but if you see just metal, it can be a problem.

So here is a suggestion, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 4 1/2", figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside. NOTE: for increased performance subs and port should be firing rearwards.