Rell

Check your pm

BUMP! $100 + shipping + paypal fees or $100 + shipping with money order Need these gone people, give me your shipping zip code so I can get shipping quotes.

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Pics of the dash please.

****SOLD****

Any stretchy polyester based fabric and ur golden.

You shouldn't even see the fleece anymore after laying down a few layers of fiberglass chop mat. So these 'ridges' should be of no issue really. I hope you are not soaking fleece with resin and then just applying bondo on top of that. That's not how it works. -Stretch fleece -Soak fleece in resin -Let fleece cure -Rough sand fleece (optional) -Apply few layers of fiberglass mat -Sand -Apply body filler -Bodywork to desired finish

Ponte FTW!!! http://www.joann.com/sew-classic-knit-ponte-many-colors/prd32705/ With ponte and cheap crappy bondo resin you just need to hardly coat it and it soaks right in, with good resin it soaks in even better. With fleece and cheap crappy bondo resin you can end up using damn near half the can trying to fully saturate the fleece, using good quality resin that's thin and runny makes fleece not so bad though, but it still soaks up a lot of resin. What cost more? Resin or Fleece? I would def spend the extra cash on ponte over fleece. You will use way less resin. Why are you sanding the fleece after it cures anyways? Unless you are using wax resin.

This exact question was asked not long ago I think, probably couple pages back. Then again maybe it was on another forum. Whatever don't matter lol. Anyways what you are referring to is called a 'milkshake' like said already. Usually just resin and bondo mixed. Slap some body filler in a mixing cup then add a little resin. Mix it up good, keep adding resin until you get it how you want. Then just add MEKP to it and mix it in, then apply. No need for the cream hardner. IMO its not needed, just spread filler on by itself. Use a rasp in green stage to knock down the majority of the filler. Wait till filler cures and sand away. The use of a rasp saves a lot of time.

Permatex FTW! I bought an 8oz of ca glue for $20 locally, prob could have got it cheaper if I hitup a few different R/C shops but I was lazy. Also probably could have got a better deal online, but that's cost of shipping + time waiting. 10min drive and I got CA in my hands. That 8oz bottle was more then enough for me with all 4 doors and my kick panels. Still got lots more left. I need a staple gun asap.

Heat from the resin as it cures is releasing the glue. Get your yellow pages out and look up a local hobby RC shop and buy some CA glue. With fabric straight to wood or fiberglass you don't need any Kicker at least in my experience... fabric onto plastic etc use a spray kicker to instantly cure it.

I hope you are a chick. Who needs adapters to put rims on a dually? Order your rims correctly and they will bolt on.

Check your PM sir.

http://www.fiberglassforums.com/automotive-interior/11159-beryllium-bmw-robolop-11.html

Most fabricators/installers have router templates to make those kinda pieces(bought templates) Like smart templates http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/smartparts/smarttemplates.htm Spend some time with some 1/8in hardboard and you can make your own. It cuts easy and sands very well, you can also use 1/4in or 1/2in mdf. If it's a template you think you might use more then once you may want to consider transferring the wood templates to some kinda of plastic material for any longevity out of them. Now to get perfect gaping(if final project will be wrapped in vinyl) for the templates and inserts it takes a little technique and router skills with a combination of a few different bits and router bearings. This I can't exactly explain as I have yet to experiment with and would like to know whats combination of bits work best to get a nice gap so I can wrap pieces in vinyl. Not my pic. Whole wall of router templates.

Doubt it, people fiberglass their entire dash and paint it. No glare problem. Shit I know old schools with Chrome A pillars, and no glare problems.

Custom is always best IMO. Nice work,

There is a sticky at the top of this section, supply links etc to some good sites where you can get stuff. get your yellow pages out and find a local auto body supply store. There a also tons of threads just like this one. As well as build threads you can probably pickup a few tips. Also might be able to find more useful info on fiberglassforums. Good luck Get out there and get ya hands dirty.

Republican .....NO THANKS

Never go back to that shop again. lol If you go with DAP contact cement you want the stuff in the blue can. Here http://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html

Think about all the ones that DON'T get caught.

Ground the car Wet the floor Prep the car GOOD, remove anything you can and tape up the rest. Masking better be on point or you will have fun with over spray clean up. I would go with Black PPG, and add matting agent to the clear coat(that's what I have read a few times on how it should be done) If your friends have some painting skills/body prep experience you should be fine. If you are painting in a home garage make sure the setup is on point and you have a good dry air setup with the compressor. Just take your time and you will save some $$

Supercharger, goes on the motor.