str86diesel

Sorry bro..but I'm gonna call you out on this one. NEVER..NEVER let a car idle that long! Have you ever heard of Cylinder Washdown (also called Wet Stacking)? Prolong idles are bad for any motor. EDIT: You definately do not want to just start the motor and take off. It is best if you let the car idle for a moment to get all of the fluids circulating, as lubricity is the life of the engine. However, if it is cold out side (say sub 30's as an example), as the motors fluids get colder, they thicken up. The colder, thicker the fluids the less lubricity they provide. But the fluids are not going to hit operating temp of the vehicle idles for 2 minutes, or 5 minutes. The best thing for a motor on a cold morning is to start it, let it idle for say a minute or two, and for the first couple of miles, keep the RPM's low (less stress on the motor) until the fluids start warming up and can gain their lubricity levels back.

Dump the stock motor and put a good small block 8 in there and the have the best of both worlds

If you are going to add anything greater then a 50 in the garage, I would definately call out a licensed contractor as your power company is going to have to get involved to increase your service. That's where it can start getting pricey...

What numbers are printed on the Main breaker up top? It looks like a 100 (maybe a 150) to me. Bill's correct in what he is saying. Usually you can pop off the front of the panel, snap a new breaker in (of course you want to shut down the main breaker first) and then run wires from that new breaker to a new panel. This circuit that is shared between the garage, hall and bathroom, most likely it is a GFCI, so if/when you run new circuits. I'd just leave that one alone and just add to the garage. Here's what I would do. Grab a phone book and call up a couple of local electricans, here in CO they will do a free assessment. That way by talking to them, you can get some idea as to if you want to do the work or pay someone else. Honestly, it's not hard to do, pending on how much power you need.

I wouldn't in anyway say that I am an electrician, but I know a lot about electricity, being that my father has been an electrician for over 30 years. Whatcha got? If I can't answer it, I can simply give him a call as he lives about 5 miles away

Most HID sets are kits, so typically you mount the ballast in the engine bay somewhere and then replace the bulbs. As long as you can swap bulbs in that enclosure, I don't see it being a problem.

if they were just the on the shelf type, they are mostly made of sugar..so it shouldn't be a big deal. Just make sure she keeps drinking fluids to wash them out and she should be fine.

Right back at ya mang....

Happy B day...

Dem were definately the days....I hope ya poured some for da brutha's

I think every state had different regulations on who can own a "machine gun/fully auto" Here in CO in order to get a class 3 license to own them, you must meet the following requirements 1) you must have a FFL License (in which requires a business license and front facing shop) 2) you must get signed approval via form4 from the county sheriff 3) have to have an existing class 3 license holder sponsor you 4) cost of the class 3 license is about 12k per year (ouch) but as far as state law goes outside of fully auto's, all weapons here are legal no matter what the make/model, as long as they are licensed and semi-auto

Another reason why CO rocks. I actually just purchased me a new M4 upper

A key to all Dodge and Chrysler vehicles is this. Anytime a problem happens, at the first possible moment turn the vehicle off Put the key in the ignition and do the following Turn the key to the on position (not starting the vehicle) Turn key to off Turn Key to on position again (not starting the vehicle) Turn key to off Turn key to on position again and wait!!!!! Your digital trip will flash a couple of times, then it will display the trouble code. Take this trouble code and either 1) look it up in a service manual 2) Post it here where someone can see it and we can retrieve the details on it 3) google the code. This will tell you exactly where the problem is.

Nah mang..no offense, but Drums are the way to go. I have both Chinese and German and never had a problem. The rounds are divided into chambers so that they don't jam up. The Germans knew what they were doing this they engineered their stuff.

I'm actually one of those guys that you guys are talking about...lol Sorry guys, but from an employers standpoint, I am all about blocking websites. Let's face it, people get distracted way to easy and spend far to much time doing personal stuff on the internet than staying on task. For my company, it is vital that we have available bandwidth for business critical needs and I get tired of seeing our internet pipe saturated from people streaming youtube videos and internet radio stations all day. Yeah I know..some of you guys will say get more bandwidth...but let me put it this way. My departments monthly internet expense is more than most IT departments annual budgets. We have over 60 locations, all with either DS3, OC3 or 100meg pipes, so we ain't talking about small time traffic and yet, I have seen people saturate a DS3 by surfing youtube vids. So I am all about blocking sites that are non business related. --> QUOTE(Eric B @ Dec 18 2007, 02:56 PM) 213707[/snapback] not sure what it is, but isnt there like a proxy that you can use to bypass ur locked sites, used to do it at school all the time... This is dependant on how your internet connection is terminated. If you have a good IT department and you are going through a decent firewall/router..you are not getting around it. I block sites at the firewall level and no matter how smart you are..you ain't getting around it, as that is the only path to the internet. kev

I will personally say that I have an x991 that is going in my truck. I've always been a huge alpine fan..until the 07 line. I can't speak for the current line up, but when I purchased mine, I was doing a comparison between Kenwood and Alpine. When doing this comparison, I noticed that Alpine removed a ton of features from their decks (EQ's, DSP, Crossover..etc). Yet kenwood still had them. So until Alpine is willing to bring those features back, I jumped ship. EDIT: I'm just picking on the 9886 due to that is what is being talked about, but it looks like my statement above still holds true. Why should I have to purchase an additional processor to get some basic functionality that alpine used to be known for? lol Sound Tuning • IMPRINT: IMPRINT Sound System Ready (PXA-H100 Required) • Equalizer: 5 Band Graphic / 7 Band Parametric Equilizer Ready (PXA-H100 Required) • Time Correction: 6 Channel Time Correction Ready (PXA-H100 Required) • MediaXpander: MediaXpander Ready (PXA-H100 Required) •MediaXpander Modes: FM, CD, XM, MP3, (Level 1, 2, 3, Off), DVD Video (Level 1, 2, Off), DVD Music (Level 1, Off), (PXA-H100 Required)

That's quite interesting...must be an import thing (I'm not being sarcastic) I've never seen that done before. Studying the diagrams, I would "assume" if this trick worked, yeah your Main relay must be toast. Cause all you would be doing is shorting it out and bypassing it with the paperclip

I'd offer to drive up and see it...and pay cash. If she turns that down, then it's a scam.

I've never heard of the paper clip trick...can you be more specific on how you wired it up with the clip?

usually the first sign of a clutch going out is slippage. I've never heard a clutch squeal, as most of them are a composite type material.

Check out your local phonebook and look for a machine shop. Most bigger shots have the machines to custom make you one for next to nothing. Then send it away to a chroming shop and have it plated. kev

When I went through the process that my denist gave me (I was being a guinea pig for him), I was told that I needed to quit pepsi for the entire week. As the brown syrup would stain my teeth brown (due to the pores on my teeth being opened by the whitening agent) and I'd have to start the entire process over again...again quitting pepsi for a week. Needless today, I was a grumpy bitch that week. I can't go without my pepsi.

Be really careful what you drink when doing this type of whitening treatment!!! I have a good friend that is a dentist and he warned me about whitening products. Pretty much what is happening is that those strips have an active ingredient that opens the pores in your teach to be able to "bleach" them a whiter color. However when these pores are open, anything you drink can cause discoloration (as most beverages have dyes in them). Meaning, if you drink a lot of mt dew...your teach have a strong potential of turning yellow during the treatment. Kev

Roscoe - Talking with the owner at Kelderman (being that he is one of their product engineers as well), he says that the issue is that the bags have to replace the Leaf Springs. So...due to this, there is no way to lower the frame and keep the towing capacity. He was saying that the lower bags are meant to hold a certain amount of weight and after that they will do their job and "lower" instead of hold the weight. Big P - Thanks for the info...though my goal is not to drag frame, but just to lower the frame about 6 inches...when needed. I'll check out those products though..thanks.

Is this amp a BX1500d? I ask because I have one BNIB. I figured I'd go look at the manual and see if there was anything in there that I could offer up to help you figure this out. Unfortunately, there was nothing. BUT...I did look at the amp it self and the Red light on my amp is clearly a PROTECT light. There is a clear/green LED on top of the red light in which is for power. Personally...I'm betting the amp is toast and needs to be replaced.