MECHMAN

I would just leave your yellow top up front (assuming its in good condition) and put a D1200 in the back. Both batteries are AGM, and have almost identical resting voltages; they work fine together. There is no need to discard a good battery (the yellow top) that you've already paid for. I could try to sell you two batteries, but the honest truth is that one D1200 in back would work perfectly. It's $180 shipped- that's a lot cheaper than two HC800's.

I built that unit with a custom "1 wire" type digital regulator. It does not need any of the pins connected for it to charge normally, it turns itself on automatically once it starts spinning. All you need to hook up it a 1/0 charge cable, and a 1/0 ground cable to the suplemental grounding lug that we installed in the case. For the sake of learning, though- A stock CS type GM regulator has 4 pins. One pin is slightly larger than the other 3 pins. On a stock regulator, they are labeled: P-L-F-S. In order to "excite" or "turn-on" the alternator, you need to take a keyed 12 positive wire, run it through a 47ohm resistor, and connect it to the "L" terminal on the regulator plug. The purpose of the 47ohm resistor, is to simulate the resistance of an indicator light, and reduce the voltage going to the "L" terminal. Runing a full 12 volts to the "L" terminal can burn out the regulatotor. Most vehicles already have an indicator light circuit. If that wire is used, then the resistor is not necessary because the indicator light acts as a resistor. Hope that helps.

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The corrosion is preventing the current from getting to the starter. A starter motor is the highest draw in the vehicle, (up to 500 amps sometimes) and will often be the only thing that doesn't work well (everything else electrical on the vehicle will still work OK) Clean off all of the corrosion with a wire brush, then in stall new, clean battery cables and ground straps and it will start like new.

Yes, I can do the 2007 Tahoe for $349 shipped, but it won't have an external fan anymore, the Tahoe has to have an internal fan. Let me know!

Bump.

250 amp alt and one high-quality battery would be fine.

One unit SOLD. I still have the other one left. I will change over the case so that it is a direct bolt-in for 1996-2006 Tahoes, Silverados, Escalades, etc... for no additional charge.

Bump.

No big deal guys, I sent you all PM's. Thanks!

These are a direct bolt in for 90's Cadillacs, Caprices, Roadmasters, and all the old-school GM cars and trucks. We also have brackets to mount them on virtually anything, but the bracket would be a little extra.

I have two custom MechMan high output alternators here that we built for a customer that flaked out. They are both identical, and are basically our 250 amp StreetBeater series alts with a bunch of custom upgrades. Here are the specs: 250 amps, 150 at idle. (they each include their own dyno-sheet) Extra heavy duty rectifier w/ press fit diodes for longevity (for constant duty use) Custom machined rear housing and extra heavy duty digital regulator w/ oversize heat sinks Charge Voltage set at 15.0 volts Solid polished billet aluminum fan for better cooling Polished overdrive pulley and nose cone Stainless steel ball burnished finish for anti-corrosion Extra large charge and ground studs for 1/0 big 3 upgrade These are basically optioned out as far as we can go for reliability in BIG street systems. If necessary, I can change the voltage setpoint for the buyer, but I would leave it at 15.0 if you plan on running a 12 volt battery. These were invoiced at $499 each, but I will let them go for $349 shipped or $649 shipped for the pair. Holler if you have any questions! 1-888-MECHMAN

+1 A bigger alternator is really the only proper solution. A battery would help, but would just be a band-aid fix.

You have a PM loganberry

I think I could actually just use home-made power supplys to do what I want to do. I'm going to use an MA HK4000D and 2 16 volt powermaster bats built into the 3 15 sub enclosure. I'm going to build it so it looks like a console table. Should fill up the living room pretty well, LOL.

Stock output is 130 amps.

Thanks! Shipped it today.

I wouldn't mind having one of those to build a 3 x 15" subwoofer my home theatre. It will only do 80 amps continuous? I guess you could buffer that with a couple batteries. Does it have adjustable voltage output?

Snafy is right, the Ford solenoids are not designed for continuous-closed use, and will burn up in a short period. Frame rails work well for grounding, on unibody cars we just run a 1/0 copper cable because it's faster than connecting frame rails and has fewer connections. Either method will provide very low resistance.

In our SPL testing the Powermaster's maintained higher voltage than the Kinetiks, that's why we carry Powermaster at the shop. Posts are purchased seperately for the PM battery, But I would use ring terminals and the provided bolt anyway, they work better than a post and clamp.

A fuse is not needed, but you can use a 250amp fuse if you want.

You will need to run it to a switched 12V source, otherwise it will stay on all the time, and could eventually run your battery(s) down. Any cicuit on your fusebox that is hot only when the key is in the "on" position will work fine.

Size for size the Powermaster's are the way to go. If you check the specs, size-for-size the Powermaster batteries weigh more. That is why they have more ouput. 2 D3100's would work fine for what you are doing.

The votlage is different because Kinetiks are AGM batteries. The resting voltage of an AGM battery is usually around 13.1V, wheras a flooded type battery (like your duralast) rests at around 12.6v. This doesn't cause a problem persay, but your resting voltage will never be as high as if you were to run all AGM batteries.

That truck uses a group 59 battery, deminsions 10.24" x 7.8" x 7.8" tall. A D2400 is 10.24" x 6.65" x 8.31" tall. Really, a D2400 should fall right in the stock location, it's the same deminsions, just half an inch taller.