raytard

i kinda noticed after like 20 hours of being played hard, the smell just went away, tuning and songs the same. i guess it was excess glue on the VC or something? and stilltippin, add power till it smells, and thats what it can take. they're pretty damn forgiving of being played too hard for short periods.

go get some pioneer d-series components for the front and coax for the back should fit in your price range and sound great. if you like pioneer tweeters, stick with them. they kinda have a unique sound and the typical sq brands are very much different (brighter, crisper, sharper, but sometimes to a fault. pioneer is very neutral and smooth)

everyone has hoes, so get a burban and do a oldschool diamond/tunnel with 16 15's

for all we know, i'm the idiot for paying more attention to science classes than sports or beer :/ but for real, www.bcae1.com will answer almost any car audio question you have, so check that out sometime. has a lot of the science related stuff broken down and applied to car audio.

right, 1800 watts comes out the positive terminal. it then trickles through the subs in equal proportion because of equal resistance, so each sub gets 600 watts of the original 1800 (1800/3=600), and then each coil sees half of that because again of equal resistance, so each coil is getting 300w cmon man, this is like gradeschool science

x2 on subs and ports forward, and you always seal when you fire forward i did sub back port up (through rear deck) because my seat doesnt fold down. if it did, best believe it would be sub/port up.

jbl power plates...will hold down that power and are basically 4in comps in a plate. or you can cut in some 6.5's. it wont be easy, but i've gotten 6.5's into the 4x6 spot on a lot of cars, so it should be possible. might require some cutting/grinding/fabrication but nothing worth having ever came easy, right? i've also seen someone just fglass pods into the grill spots on that and the trailblazer, so thats an option too.

i dont think a kreg will help that much, its so much easier to just have the front and rear overlap everything, and the sides overlap the top and bottom, than it is to kreg everything... and brace the shit out of it, lol. break out the 2x4's my box right now has the top and bottom tied together with a 2x4, the sides and back tied together with the ports, and the front double baffled. everything is braced somehow and the xl still flexes it a bit.

i'm on my third in-trunk build option 1) slide it in through the backseat. i know the hole is too small, break out the grinder, cut the metal, slide the box in, and weld it back most people will never do this, but it is an option.... option 2) design it, cut it, dry fit it, and dry fit it in the trunk like someone else said. If you watch how each piece meets you save yourself a hell of alot of frustration. make the sides the full height so you can screw through them into the top and bottom. make the front and rear the full height and width, so you can screw straight in and into the top/sides (if you want to double baffle, make one fit inside and the other one outside, assemble them out of car and then screw it in as one assembly with a shitton of glue) basically consider how you can screw it all together, atleast in my experience joints with just glue and no screws to hold it tight and exact while drying are the weak points, and with lvl5's you dont want weak points if you decide after the fact to brace, use a car jack and like a brick or scrap 2x4 to jack the box apart like a little bit, slide your brace, covered in glue, into position (the little bit its jacked apart allows you to twist it into place...) and then let the jack down, clamping it in place. i've had to do this twice now because i underestimated the goddamn power of dc subs, lol.

they'll usually tell you, so uk if you can only play music or if sine sweeps/tones are fine if you're stuck with music play something consistant, like amilli by lil wayne or "boomin and bunkin" by oj da juice man for one run and then go higher or lower freq for the next runs to see whats loudest. if you can play sweeps or tones, do a sweep first and see about where youre peaking, and then do tones around there next, starting low and playing for a few secs and working up higher.

sub out is very low power, just a signal. if you hooked it to a woofer it wouldnt do much of anything. its a signal line to drive a sub amp

you can underpower as much as you want, if that wasn't true then subs would blow whenever you turned the volume down. as far as feeding high frequency through it, they'll be fine as long as there isnt a ton of power involved. they wont produce it well but it probably wont do any damage.

i got my bt120 for just a bit more shuriken ftw

boston spg555's would be cooler.... atomic has a nice one psi will make one for you custom rockford t2's kicker cvx/l7 15's funkypups (hard to find in 15's though, its tough to make carbon nanotubes that long or something) jbl gti's theres HUNDREDS of choices, go write them all on paper and put it in a hat and draw one out and random. we're all going to reccomend something different, and honestly you'll be happy with any quality sub thats in your pricerange that can eat 1krms, so it doesnt really matter where it came from. unless you need a chrome flame basket, then ur just stuck with audiobahn. theres hundreds of choices. go choose one.

possible but my personal experience says otherwise, but thats just me. My buddy went through like 4 p2's until i turned his amp down for the first 20 hours and then put it right back where it was, and they lasted 5 years. Same with my cvr's. now i'm not saying its a day and night improvement, but it may be like 5%, and if you're at the limit of what it can handle that 5% saves you.

its called peel n stick you can find it at your local hardware store, sometimes even with aluminum backing most of it is asphalt, which stinks and falls off. if you get lucky and find a butyl version, its actually decent, although usually thinner than dynomat, and it comes like 6 inches wide. we've known about this for like a decade, but thanks anyway

some companies (RF and MTX come to mind) put it in the manuals, and mtx goes so far as to put a tag IN the terminal saying how to break it in. now, i'm not saying anyone is wrong, but if those multi-million dollar corporations that have been doing this for years say to break em in, i have a tendancy to trust them. I've been told 20-30 hours of play loosens up the suspension, and like someone else said that allows them to play lower and louder. It also means MORE COOLING. the sub moves a bit, not a whole lot, more after its loosened up with the same amount of power. Louder, more movement means more airflow=more cooling. I've had experience where "breaking in" subs has had them last longer, i've seen customers do it, and even with my dc's i notice after 20 hours of being beat on that they stink less and sound better with everything else constant. moral of the story is dont be dumb with them for the first 20 hours, and then beat the balls off em...

cops drive those if you wanna look like the fuzz get it....friggin jersey cops posting up in unmarked chargers handing out tickets like candy...bastards its value dropped like a rock and will continue to drop, if that doesnt bother you, get it and throw a system and some big shoes on it

lazyme, youre def right but check the actual area of the wire, i've seen "0gauge" insdustrial wire that was more akin to 4awg automotive wire, stiffness and difficulty to work with aside, it was just plain smaller. i know its a ghetto half assed way of doing it, but if you get crimp on terminals, they are made that 0g will slide in. Stuff like knu/rockford/monster/stinger xpert is a BITCH to get in, alot of twsiting and cursing and strands sticking out (unless you use the tape trick ). cheap wiring, like raptor, cheesier tsunami, power acousik wire, etc slides in with room to spare (as does good 4g....) so grab a crimp on terminal, strip back some of your wire, and see how it fits. if there's wiggle room i'd be concerned, if its hard to fit in there youre fine. I know its not exact, but its kind of a rule of thumb to help you out a bit (and as someone who has seen damn near every wire on the market, its pretty consistant).

wire is wire make sure its AWG2 and not like south korean 2g, cuz they use different standards (find the mm^2 and compare to name brands) strand count is flexibility, but if you can get that shit through, it doesnt matter if its 1 strand or 150000 copper is preffered, CCA is second, anything else stay away from. and as far as rca's, its hard to tell the difference from two primary wires twisted together with rca ends on it, and that 5000$ pear cable. dont let marketing hype and customer reviews from idiots make you disregard science and common sense.

pioneer d-series components run 2 sets in the front (fglass the doors, kickpod, pillars, whatever you have to do) forget about the back deck, take em out and let the bass in, you'll never hear em anyway 2 sets of comps and 600wrms kept up with 5kw and 3 18's in my car, and sounds amazing with 1 18 and 1500wrms (what i have now, and what you're doing) check my buildlog if you like, idk if i added my most recent setup but its a dc xl18, like 6ish cubes ported thru the rear deck at 35hz with 1500rms on it. d-series will do you right and not break the bank, just make sure to cross them over at like 90ish hz if you wanna run 100watts to em.

yea, it would be all paralleled is .67ohm to each amp...i guess a sundown could handle that after box rise so long as your electrical is good. series 3 and parallel, you get 6ohm, parallel 3 and series is 2.67ohm (if you wanted to strap or use amps that like 2ohm) or run 4 small amps at 1.33 or 1 big amp at 1.33 get to it

2500watts 5000 is hte max, aka never gonna happen, but yea, 1 ohm=highest output=2500watts or so

its cake the spring door "poppers" are cheap, but have to be drilled in and mounted in a spot that they hit the tailgate before it closes, and are compressed when the tailgate latches, so when the latch is opened it pops it out a bit(like an inch or so, enough for it to be unlatched and you to grab it. http://www.unbeatablesale.com/dsd443269.ht..._term=DSD443269 the next thing you need is a solenoid. go bigger than you need, like a 40lb'r. self explanitory, but mount it and tie it into the latch so it pulls like your old handle did to unlatch the gate when given current (from a switch, button, or if you're handy, the trunk release of your alarm system) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HFM-SL35 (i just showed autoloc because its a company I've personally installed, and had great reliability and results with. I know your project just got like $150 bux tacked on, but it will so be worth it when you hit a button on your keypad and the gate drops down for ya)

im also in the crowd of hdmi to tv and optical to reciever if you already have speaks and stuff, you can just get a new reciever and save yourself some cash. Onkyo makes some really nice ~$200 dollar ones. optical is definately the way to go though, that or get a high end reciever that you can feed hdmi into and then hdmi out to tv yamaha has some sick ones but theyre some good cash