pervitizm

Thanks. The resason why I'm cosidering the isolator is because my truck is still under warranty and I want to make sure that I install this stuff in such a way that it doesn't void that at all. I just did a pric compare on Knu vs the 2 kicker amp kits and I can get much much more from Knu for a lot less money. So I may go with knu, which I need to order by tomorrow if I want the stuff here for next week. As for the battery I'm still trying to figure out if I should go with Yellow Top or Powermaster. Right now I can't even find a shop near me that carries Powermaster locally. I guess I'm gonna be bussy this weekend Man this is an expensive hobby when your trying to go big.

Okay............ How about this (1) Optima / 12 Volts, 900 CCA (1125 CA) Yellow Top Battery - $250. (Autozone) (2) Kicker PKD1 1/0 amp wire kit - $120 each (Sonix Electronic) That alone would be right at $490 give or take. Now about the isolator would I need one? I mean I plan on getting a second alt in a few months that will be installed only to charge the batteries for the stereo would it be wise to get the isolator or not? Keep in mind this is all going into a 2007 suburban.

I need to get my electrical going in the truck if I want to be done with my truck by next friday. So I need ideals as far what wires and battery to run. Right now I gonna go off the stock 160a alternator in the suburan for now until the end of August. I should have the money saved up then to get the second alt to run a dual alt setup. So for now just so I can hear my DC subs I want to go with 1 additonal battery up under the hood and two runs of 1/0 to the second row seats. That's were I'm gonna mount the autotek amp. The autotek has dual pos/neg 4g power terminals, so my questions is what wires should I go with. I'm thinking of going with KnuKoncepts Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0g Black Power/Ground Wire. However I'm hearing a lot of good stuff about the kicker hyper flex cables as well but I can't find a store online that sales it by the foot. What about eD's power wire that they use, anyone here used they're wires before? If I could stay at or under $200 for power and ground wires/terminal/dis block I should be good. I have some dis blocks from my durango install that I could re-use so I could save some green backs from that as well as some 4ga wiring. Do you guys know where I can find a battery isolator online at? I need to know where to find one at so I can figure that in with the cost of my additional battery. Once I can find the isolator, then that will leave me with a battery choice. I was over at Jegs.com and saw that the powermaster D3100 over there was at $300. Anyone know where I could find that at a cheaper price? I may just go with a yellow top for now and then switch over later on when I get the second alt. However if I could find a D3100 for a good price I may pick it up. So to sum everything up. I've got about $450 - $500 to spend on power wires/rca/battery terminals/dis blocks/battery and I need some help trying to figure out what to get. The cheaper I can stay the better both the wife and I will be Just to note - This is for daily driving and not a comp car. With that said I don't need 7 batteries of 5 300a alternators. Total peak wattage of my system should be right at or just below 5K.

Where are the VIDS???????? WHERE ARE THE VIDS!!!!!!

Yup.....I'm now in the QBABA mode........Quit B!tch!n And Build Already. So I took Accordman advise and ditched the exta baffle on the bottom of the box, and just went with one divider board instead of 2. Those two changes alone have given me roughtly .2 cf of space to bring me up to aroud 5.4 cf of total space per sub. Not the 5.75 recommended by DC but close enough. I still kept the port lenght at 31 and my tuning is now looking right at around 33Hz. I still had a hint of doubt so I did one more mockup, this time single 6inch port that around 19inches long. Still around 21.75 inches high and that gave me a tunning of around 30Hz. I get roughly around 11.3 cf of combined airspace. That is including the port/subs/45's displacement. So this is it. No more sketchup drawing. No more waiting. My day tomorrow will start off with me and the old dude(my dad) at home depo buying sheets of MDF and maybe a tablesaw. What I'm looking for out of this final post by me in this particular thread is between these two enclosure designs........which one would you go with? The dual port box tuned to around 33Hz or the single port box tuned around 30Hz

Just 1 or 2ohm. No 4ohm models available in the lvl 4's.

yall know i'm gonna bump this post right. it too many of yall in here running DC subs. i'm sure someone in here can help me out. EDIT: I didn't see Amatts and Expo's pose so I may have jumped the gun on my bump. it kind of hard to read a thead from a PDA phone. I'll check out you're replies when I get home.

ExpoSport, how did you come up with 4.7 cubes of air space? My numbers are showing 5.1 with the 31 inch long port? I also redid the numbers again this time calcuation each chamber as appose to the whole enclosure and this is what I got this time:

LOL...sorry about that. It was like 3 something in the morning when I posted the box calc picture. Here is another screen with all the correct number plotted in and still I'm showing 21.02Hz from Amatt's deal, while my own number show right at around 34Hz.

My reason was for some additial bracing besides just the double top and bottom boards and sub stibility. I've floated around with a common chamberd box as well. But right now I think this is more of what I'm gonna go with. Trust me, I've got at least two other threads on this same issue in SMD and multiply box designs floating around out there.

So I've been struggling with comming up for a design for my subs for about a month now. Everytime I think I've got it, I plug in the number and I'm off by a long shot. My goal is to try and build a box for 2 LvL 4 18's tuned between 30 - 36hz. So if I fall within any of those numbers within that range them I'm good to go. As some of you know I'm been posting everywhere as well as PM'ing a lot of you guys here for advise and what not. This lastest box that I did in sketchup is going to be the one that I'll more than like build for my truck. I just want to make sure my tuning is right. Now when I did the number today I came up with a tuning of 34.3hz, yet when I plug those number into Amatt85's Box Calc spread-sheet I get a tuning of 29.44hz. Now I'm confussed all over again. Now this box still falls under my external measurement of 24Height x 49Width x 26Dept, and I found out that the DC's take about 0.25f^3 of displacement. Internal numbers are as follows: 21Height x 47.5Width x24.5Dept. Throw in the 1.5 divider board in the middle of the box and I get around 6.85f^3 of space. that's of course not factoring in all the other stuff. When I factor in the displacement of the subs ports and the pair of 45's that I'll use for the box I come up with a final number of 5.11f^3 per chamber. I then plug the following fomula into good ole google and I get Fb =0.159*sqrt(84(1.84*100000000) / (5.114*1728(30 + 0.823*sqrt(84)))) which comes out to 34.3hz. So my question is, who'se right? Me with google's help, or Amatt85's Box Calc spreadsheet? Take a look:

Hey, just wanted to remind you that your indeed white

I guess the overall point of this was to show that it doesn't take a shit load of power and some huge ass subs to make your car sound good. Hell he fooled a lot of people with those pair of 6.5 woofers. Not saying that they were gonna break records with the setup but it does show how important your box design plays in your overall sub system and not just the subwoofer an amp.

Funny how you guys keep suggesting Lawn-care and the guy not only stated but show you pictures of why he can't work out in the sun . To the thread starter, sounds like your young (i.e. still in highschool) why not look for a co-op or paid internship? I work for a utility company in my city and every summer they hire high-school and college students for different internship postions. They pay pretty well and you get some real world work experiece other than stocking shelves or getting carts. If no co-op is avaliable then like some of the others have said look into places like Lowes/HomeDepo type of work. Some of these places have decent pay and benefits. Just my $.02 worth.

I'll bump this for another Lvl 4 18. Shit I'm having a hard enough time trying to design a box for two so doing one for three won't be to much of problem for me 3 lvl 4's off a single MM4000.1...........Maybe?

LOL.......Smart Bum.

Thanks KingSuv, Man this was freaking hard to find.

This video has to be a good 4+ years old. It was a guy who was running like two 6inch subwoofers in this horn type box. He had everyone who sat in his car thinking he was running bigger subs. Does anyone remember who did that video? All I remember was he had show the shit to Meade in one of the videos. Oh well it's late and I was trying to find this video since yesterday and had no luck. I figured someone here knows what I'm talking about and can find the video.

Yup me too. I heard about him on Tempro and ROE back about 4 yrs ago. So like 04-05 when he had the dual 18's MT's and like 8 of those RF 1k amps.

Damn that's gonna be bad ass. Can't wait for the pics

My god that's a big ass box my friend.

This is . This car shit on everything else shown in this thread. I want that car.

In onve of the videos they stated that it was $8700, yet its not for sale to the public. They're trying to get the big three to buy into the technology. I want to see it in a Suburban my self. Go figure right? I also wonder how long does it take to fully charge the batteries after use? They never say how long you have to charge the system

Shit I do. That's anywhere from $4-$8 dollars saved per trip.

Yup I agree. I think this is a bit too good to be true but I'll hold off full judgement till someone test this product out.