The Performer

Eh, I'd still go a bit more to be on the safe side.

Hey dude, I just got through commenting that video, lol. Didn't know you were here on SMD too?

Man, that's hella small for those... I really don't know what to tell you, the times I used that calculator was just for single subs. I say just play with the calculator on that link I gave you and keep double checking here, I know alot of the guys on here will be able to tell you if you're spot on or not. Good luck

I'm just now actually registering what I just did and 1.85 total cant be right... That is a tiny box for 3 of them damn things... Disregard all that calculating I tried to do earlier and lets wait till this guy replies back to be more specific, I don't think all those calculations I did are right.

By the way, I forgot to link where I got the specs for that sub. Fi sub specs Seriously though, reply back as to what you would prefer as port dimensions, just make sure they sum up to a area of 80.99 inches square.

If I did the calculator right port area should be 80.99 inches minimum, if the port is a square then it would be 9 in square, and 107.8 in. I think this is all right, give it a shot yourself, if you don't want the port to be a square ask more specifically the dimensions you want. Port calculator

I'd assume that you should be able to make that a bigger cable... I wonder why the shop said they couldn't ? Although, would that help? I'm no guru on that. Man you are pulling alot of power though with all of those amps... I doubt a capacitor would be much, at that point you might just need to get more source power (another battery and stronger alternator maybe) About how long do you suppose your power wire is?

Shallows don't give the same sound I'm guessing then? Thanks for the reply!

I'm looking to decide on 2 new subs for my truck. I want 10's and I will be building a sealed enclosure for them. Currently I'm looking at these as they seem reputable and the price is more of my range. I'm hoping not to spend over $250 for both of them, but when it comes down to quality I have to remember that I might spend more than $250 so we shall see. The over all ohm load I would like my amp to see is 1 ohm so DVC subs are mostly what I have been looking at and SVC 2 ohm's. Im looking at, -RF punch 3 shallows dual 4ohm - Link about $200 for both online -Orion c2 dual 4ohm (I can get for good price) - Link about $120 for both online -Alpine type S dual 4 ohm - Link about $160 both online -Polk audio MOMO MM2104DVC - Link - about $180 online I'd love to try out more of competition type subs such as some 10in DC lvl2's but I'd be scared out of my mind to see the price on those... Of all of these I've only heard the alpine's, but none of the others. If anyone could help give some insight as to which ones you've had experience with, which ones are best value or even if you know of something better in my price range I would appreciate the help BIGTIME!! Thanks!

Not to mention the Texas humidity... Anyone know any facts on whether humidity affects the way your bass will sound? I can remember when I had my ported boxes on my way to school on very humid mornings my bass would sound TERRIBLE, where as on a more dry day they would sound fine. (By the way, the subs were foam surround on those) Now I have 2 sealed boxes with rubber surround subs and they don't seem to have that problem... Anyone know if (foam vs rubber/sealed vs ported) might have any kind of advantages/disadvantages in humid climates?

That's not that bad then, the bottom depth of my boxes are 9" but luckily the slope allows me to lean back the seat all the way to the back wall. 32hz is a damn good tune, bet it sounds ridiculous! :hairtrick:

That deck install kit looks awesome, did you have to make that custom or were you just lucky to find them somewhere?

Looks great man, what was the overall volume of the box? I think with a bit more tweaking you could have possibly gotten your seat and the middle to go back more. Maybe a little sloping of that area in the middle would have let the middle seat fold back almost all the way, although it would have been a lot trickier to get the driver seat back alot more by sloping. Otherwise sweet job, that's one of the biggest I've seen behind the seat in a GM singlecab.

Damn, my bad guys, I guess I missed that it was a different version of a razr. Hmm, this makes things a bit more difficult... Has anyone had luck with audiofanaticz's advice?

That's a hell of a nifty box design to allow you to pull the baffle board down like that.

That will do the trick, I've yet gotten to shoot a 17. My brother has one but the damn ammo is outrageous!

Connect the phone to your computer via USB and use Bitpim to access the phone's firmware and files and remove them that way. An EXCELLENT forum on EVERYTHING cell phone wise. http://www.howardforums.com/ I wouldn't go to the limits to say it cant be done because I've seen just about anything done to cell phones given you use the right programs/unlock all the right things. My last phone I was getting free internet and picture messaging via a hack. With my new Glyde there's a great program like Bitpim called QPST. It basically allows you to access almost everything on your phone, (just be careful what you modify or you could brick it). So far I've been able to add my own homemade and ("borrowed" from verizon) ringtones into the firmware as well as wallpapers. Just goes to show you what all you can do with the right tools. If you need any help pm me.

That brand sounds really familiar. What really determines a good buy is if the use you get from it makes the item pay for itself or makes your job significantly easier.

^Thats one of my fav's too, I just love how everything is flexing like crazy, that dude has one hell of a setup.

Will do. Do you update your videos often? I'll subscribe to your channel. Check out my thread on the 03 silverado 4x4 singlecab, I need some opinions on subs I haven't decided on yet, maybe I can get some advice.

Looks like it's going to be a HELL of a loud singlecab... I nearly crapped myself seeing the Fi being put in a truck like mine, but dude I hope you got short legs cause your seat is way the hell up!

Sweet! Got the same layout as me, singlecab! EDIT: Posted too soon

Here's some shots of the LED's I've put in. The switch is hidden in the top of the low dash pocket, here's some shots of it getting turned on. Here's a shot of the switch from below so you can see how I hid it. It's the black rocker on the left side of the pic (upside down) Some shots of the lights. I hope to replace the lights behind the instrument cluster soon with blue LED's, I've got a leftover 9in bar that I could chop up and use, but I'll just have to see how that works out first.

Be careful what you buy at Lowes and Home Depot, I purchased some T-nuts to mount down subs before and the damn threads stripped out. Found a shop that carried bolts, screws, nuts and such that had some that worked GREAT. Just make sure you're not getting the cheap stuff.

Whoops, forgot to add I do have a few vids as well. The first one is playing "Journey into bass - Dj laz" and the second is "Bass I love you". The first one was done with my cell phone video camera so it's not so great quality. It's definitely loud though. Then this one was done with my dad's digital camera so it's a little better quality. At the moment I'm trying to decide on what subs I want to get, I'm stuck between (All 10in.) -RF punch 3 shallows dual 4ohm - Link -Orion c2 dual 4ohm (I can get for good price)Link -Alpine type S dual 4 ohmLink I'll be running these with my orion HCCA D1200 amp at 1ohm which will push them at 600 watts. My question is does anyone have suggestions as to which ones are better than the other? My experience is that I've heard RF punch 1's and alpine type S' but never owned them myself so that's as far as my experience goes, hopefully you guys can help! Thanks tons, I'll try and get some pics of my LED neon install tonight.