RAD

Not *too* hard. Obviously, unless your <5ft tall your not gonna bring the box up to the B-pillar, but you can seal off at the C-pillar at the very least. Since the wall will be further back from the B-pillar, you can go that extra step sealing the wall with fibreglass from wall to pillar. How hard the construction is; nothings too different if you're doing a drop in or square box. But, building to the car is harder to make the box stronger without the B-pillar.

Numbers already? Or you all on the grey goose?

Get a buddy or spectators to push on the windows, back windows definately, front may lose or gain depending on drivers or passenger side. Any gains would still be trivial compared to working on your box. I did notice front door skins flex a bit on these, maybe while they're pushing on the window, bracing the door skin with leg might gain a couple tenths?

Only way i see this fitting with a port is a clamshell, even then the magnets may not clear the top & bottom notches, or fit inverted. Plus, isn't the charging system in a Forester computer controlled?

Holy chit, how did i miss this one? I dunno whats moar win, the Z2 or the Z series sub that's probably worth as much as the car! Don't like your chances of the OA's surviving though, stick those eclipses in a 4th order

+1 for the 3m stuff. The 3M perfect-it system is fairly decent for a simple 3-step system, but you'll be there forever by hand. Chapo123, what do you wanna acheive? A little extra shine? Keep it looking washed longer? Or to remove all the swirls and properly refine the paint? If you want some extra shine, you can grab Meguiars "Speed Glaze M80". It's a light cutting/heavy polishing compound that contains a glaze. You can apply it by hand with a Meguiars Terry towel. You'll be there all day doing it, but it'll bring some easy results. Beware, all products that contain glazes are temporary; you'll have a nice shine for about a month, but the glaze will come off with regular washing or time. Waxes are really a sacrificial substance so UV light damages the wax, not the paint. It'll add a little shine, but don't expect miracles. If you're more serious and really want to get rid of swirls and small scratches, you'd be best to see a local detail product supplier. They could get you started with a Random orbital, plus pads and product, but expect to spend $$$.

For badges and hard lettering, i use Methylated Spirits, or in the states you call it 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. Squirt it so it can get behind the adhesive, lever it slowly with something like a plastic door stopper. If you're patient and careful, it'll only take a couple of minutes if you do it slowly and let the alcohol do its work.

Every summer, dozens of body men and "smart" people get clued onto how much hail guys make a day. They think it's just a matter of buying some cheap tools on ebay, and pushing the dents out, and they'll make a tonne of money. Come winter, they can't fix a dent to literally pay for their tools, which get sold on ebay to the next round of bodymen and "smart" people. Yep, plenty of guys make $3k a day or more. But they only make that 3-6months a year, they need to pay for gas & hotel while on the road, plus taxes... which doesn't seem so big at the end of the day. Then consider the skill, experience and training required to get good enough to do this. Car lot hacks are dime a dozen, there's a few guys that do retail and body shop work, but not many can finish a hail damaged car in a day or less, FLAWLESSLY. I trained with 5 guys, three body men have let the tools gather dust, the car lot owner is still just selling cars, and years after the mechanic is only just repairing a door ding good enogh for a car lot. good enough for you not to trip on in a car yard.

If colours are an issue for you, you can simply just learn body repair & prep, without learning paint or paint correction. Though you might wanna look into the industry as a whole, some states are paid only half as much as others, and in general the industry is slowly being choked by insurance companies and owners who do not/cannot look after their cars.

I'd understand if the hail storm made dents and you wanna get that fixed, but i've never seen paint getting chipped.

Mate, it's a US forum; the only falcon's these guys see are from the 60's, and Option Audio is an unknown brand. Shoulda asked on MEA! ANYWAYS... First thing i'll tell you, is unfortunately the OA Extreme's are NOT a good sub for playing lows. Their FS is up above 38hz, and the EBP favoured being sealed. Having also built four "low tuned" systems for them, they just don't have the authority down low like other locally available subs: Earthquake DBXi, SoundStream SPLX, Mach5 IXL etc. In three of the four systems, at least one sub has died. But, if you want to still get loud & low with what you have, since the EB Falcon's have a low & flat boot, you can try sub up, port sideways. We did this in a VS Commodore with 10yr old basic RF stuff, worked out well: (IF you can't see the image, add "Riverside Customs Miguel" on facebook.) 2.25-2.5cuft NET per sub is optimal, we tried 2.8cuft NET @ 33hz with one, box was obviously too large because it sounded weak and hollow. EDIT Whoops, you did ask on MEA! My bad. Well, maybe try a series tuned 6th order.... But i don't see 140+ from the boot being a problem. I did a 3cuft box for a kicker L5 on 900w, got 139.8 @ 38hz in a VS, DD 9512 in my BMW 318i with NO fold down seat or ski port, 141.9 from 2400w...

Haha, very true mate! Though if you can afford them, their the ducks guts. Though the 12's he was gonna get was Rockford P3 or T1's i remember. Though if they were 3512's...

Its not always about cone area. Competed in a comp last year, myself a DD9512 @ 40hz powered by a DDM3. Another guy, 4 Earthquake Dbxi's sealed off a PHD5000. Similar power, both in trunk cars, he had 4x the subs. I scored 141's, he scored 139's. And its Charger who has the line "There is no substitute for cone area"... although he himself opted for 6 15's over 18 12's in his trooper, so what does that say?