Nightshade

Email Jacob at [email protected] and you may be surprised on the deal he might give you on a pair of sa12's. Tell him that you already own a 1500d and that sa's are the only thing that is missing from you doing some :hairtrick:

On all my boxes I use silicone and then resin on top of that. Like the others said liquid nails will work very well and if you want to get a little more serious use PL. It is a sub flooring sealant that will never come off easily and seals pretty much anything.

I can build you kicks but you would have to bring me the vehicle so I could mock them up. Where do you live at? Also I just bought some qlogic ones cause it's much easier and cheaper than building them. I've built them for a customers 2003 Kia whatthefuckever and charged him about $300 since it takes a damn long time to do. So I'd expect at least that much for yours no matter where you take them to get done including any shops around you.

Woofers ect has them if you really want to pay the price they are asking for them.

Why only a single 6" port? I don't agree with that at all. The least amount of port area I would have went with would have been 4 4" ports. Trust me as I am speaking from experience that a single 6 will not let those sub show their full potential. I am just trying to help is all, not trying to cause any issues what so ever.

I'll put some $$$$ down that the Sundown sa12's will take a walk on the AQ 2.5's. Have you seen the numbers that Jacob put up with the sa8's? Over a 150 with a single saz3500d. I believe that he was doing 154's with 4 of the sa12's and a pair of 3500's and I bet that the AQ's won't even take that kind of power let alone put those kind of numbers up. Don't get me wrong I like the AQ subs, but for the money the Sundown sa's are the poop.

I'm not sure if your familiar with relays but that is going to do the same exact thing as my diagram. Thanks for taking the time to look it up but you can interchange 30 and 87 in this case. I double checked it after I put this question up in the notes that I found and my diagram is going to work. Well at least that's what my notes say, but after seeing your diagram here it is the same circuit.

Happy birfday. Get yourself a pair of Sundown sa12's. Them bishes get loud and will match up fucking great with that Sundown saz1500d. You will need a pair of dual 4's which is what the sa's come in and you can wire down to 1 ohm and beat the piss out of them subs.

It's been a while since I've had to use a relay to turn on multiple amps. Next week I'll be adding the 4th amp to my car and I think that I'll probably need a relay to help turn 4 of them on. Here's what I've come up with and if any of you that have experience with it can say yes this is right or no you need to do this instead I would really appreciate it. Like I said it's been a while but I think this is right. I haven't used a relay for anything coming up on 3 years since I left the shop that I worked at. Thanks for any help and if this is the correct way I'll change the title of the thread and maybe it can get stickied so that others can see how to do this if they need to.

What are the peak freq's in this song for sure?

My opinion for a new box that will keep rise down more than what you have now is starting out with 4.5 cubes and a single 8" flared port. Then if that's not quite where you want it shrinking down the box to 4 cubes and makking the port longer to keep tuning where you want it. What do you have your box tuned to now? If it's really low that is definately part of the reason that your rise is so high. The lower you tune the more rise and less power your amps will make. The higher you tune the less rise and more power is made. That's part of Jacob's success with boxes tuned pretty high and burping them in the 50's help to keep rise down.

Did it give you a happy ending?

I get that way with some games sometimes. I've been wanting to play Madden for about a week but had rented Guitar Hero 5 and played that. I think I am going to go and play some Madden tonight though.

If you keep the same size box more port area will bring the rise down some. If you go to a larger box and keep the same port area your rise will go down some. If you do a larger box and more port area your rise will go down quite a bit but I don't reccomend that. What is your current box volume and you are running 2 6" ports right? I can give you a port/box volume ratio that should help you bring down your impedence rise quite a bit.

A couple questions for you real quick. 1. Do you have upgraded mids/highs in the car? 2. Do you have the mids/highs on an amp? 3. Does your bass overpower your front stage?

It's not even about preouts at all. Your stock deck sucks internally comparred to some companies bottom of the line decks. Almost any aftermarket upgrade will offer a better cd player quality, better dc/dc converter, better signal to noise ratio, better tunner, better everything than a stock deck. This is a no brainer, just upgrade now!

4 Type R's will handle way more than 2000 rms but that is a decent start for them. You could honestly get away with about 4000 rms but then your talking about a ton more money for an amp or two that will do it for you.

Actually you can recone an L7, but it takes a lot of work. I've seen it done before. What needs to be done is the cone needs to be cut loose and reused. Also the spiders need to be cut off and the basket grinded down. The guy that rebuilt one reused the cone glued a new coil to it and also was able to do new spiders. The all that had to be done was gluing it back to the basket. I'm not exactly sure how he lined it up cause the cone is one piece and you can't really shim it in place, but it worked none the less. It's just a ton of work though.

The way you have it wired in this pic is exactly how it needs to be wired to get max power out of a Sundown saz2000d. Here is a link to them where you can buy one online: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/p...%252d2000D.html

It would depend on hom many of the type r's you plan on running. If you went with 3 of them you would need to wire each sub up to 4 ohms using series. The manual that comes with the sub will show you how to run it at 4 ohms or 1 ohm. You need the 4 ohm option. Once you have each sub wired at 4 ohms you will need to run all 3 of them in parallel or better explained all the positives together and all the negatives together. That will bring your final impedence to 1.33 ohms and is why I suggested the saz2000d. It will make more than 1500 watts at 1 ohm but closer to 1500 at 1.33 where you would be. Now if you ran 4 subs you would need to series all the coils so you get each sub to 4 ohms, then wire each in parallel with + to + and - to - and that would give you a final load of 1 ohm and would be an excellent amount of power for those subs.

Your probably right about having more of an "ear" for change. There have been times though when I thought some changes that I made to the car that had nothing to do with power made it sound louder, and when I finally put the car on the meter it had actually lost spl. I've kind of got this feeling right now that my car isn't quite as loud as it was, but I haven't metered it to prove my theory. I'm probably just used to it that I'm getting paranoid thinking I broke something.

I don't see it, where at?

Now that wasn't much of an explosion. I thought we were gonna see pumpkin guts flying all over the place. I bet it would have exploded more if you put it in your truck and played 30hz for it.

Oh yeah I forgot, I can haz yo car???? I really like the Audi hatchback Herri. I wonder how loud one of them can get. My guess is 150's on music with a couple of 15's and 3K+ watts. When are you going to do a big build in it, or are you never planning on it?

I honestly like 3 and 4, but murdered out looks badass too. Just so you know my favorite would be 4 with more accents than 3.