Nightshade

I've been there before too man. Except I was raped by First Merit. Banks are vicous they will take that money you put there and keep it.

Haaaaa! Almost pissed myself.

Sounds like a pretty nice birthday!!!

2 12's sealed?

Are they 4" coils and what size spiders?

I don't believe that Rusty Flowers was ever part owner of Re audio either. At least in any of the conversations I've had with him this has never come up.

Re wasn't sold to a Korean company. They were sold to US Amps and they chose to manufacture the subs in Korea now.

I don't remember if I saw anyone bracing your car at all. That may be something that could help you gain as much as .5db. Even if you were to add another battery you may be able to pick up a few tenths, but that will cost money. Maybe try tweeking the settings on the hu to get a few tenths. Jacob and I did this the other day with my car and we were able to pick up .2 just by changing a few settings.

10" sounds like a good starting place. You might want to cut a half inch at a time instead of a full inch. I've heard of the 89 rex's peaking as high as 61hz so you may end up with a really short port. This is basically the standard size box with the most common type of port in crx's in db drag. Most of them with 2 10's are doing in the 152-155db range, but that is on the dash not in the kick. My car actually does a 149.4db in the kick, but I don't ever compete with it there.

You can use pvc, but the flare can still be on the outside if you use an aeroport. The flares come with holes for screws so you can screw them right into the wood. All you need to do is cut a hole big enough to get the port tube through and you'll mount the one side of the flare on the inside of the box so it is secure and the other side with the other flare on it on the outside. Trust me the flares help, but if you don't want to use them that's your call. I can't say how much louder they will be, but I'm sure it's enough to make a difference.

Also add some resin to the inside and also the outside of the box. It will help strengthen the enclosure and keep the mdf from breathing. Remember thought to get 2 4" aeroports for the box. The best place to get them is www.partsexpress.com they are fairly cheap and they will ship really fast.

Okay so that's .18cuft of displacement. All you need to do is take the 311.04cuin and divide it by 1728 to get the displacement in cuft. Alright the closest I can get without getting all crazy on dimensions is a 14.25" X 14.25" X 14.25" which will give you 1.19cuft of internal volume and when you subtract the .18 for woofer displacement you'll get 1.01cuft internal volume. Remember to attach the port to the rear baffle of the box so it's not inside the enclosure displacing any of the internal volume. Each of the internal dimensions of each side will need to be 12.75" each so it's 1.5" less than the total of each side of the external dimensions. I'll go ahead and throw up a cut list for you too. Front and back need to be 12.75" X12.75" Sides need to be 14.25" X12.75" Top and bottom need to be 14.25" X 14.25"

The sub should be able to handle the power better in a smaller enclosure. You may not see them smoke in a cube, but then again I don't know their thermal capabilities. If you could tell me the woofer displacement then I'll give you the box size that is necessary. You won't need to figure port displacement because like I said before you'll want to put the port on the outside of the box to allow for maximum room between the flares on the port and the rear hatch wall.

WOW!!! That's an awesome price for an amp that does a lot over the rated power. If I weren't trying to damage my hearing I'd probably pick one of these up. Instead I'm going for the next in line of Sundown power. You can't beat $350 for 1200+watts rms, not to mention the quality of product and waranty.

MTX only makes dual 4's. Just answering the question for ya Alpine

I'll gladly continue to debate this with you all night long, but this guys thread is going to look like shit if we keep filling it with our bullshit so I'm not gonna continue it here. I tried to tell him that earlier in the thread, but somehow I let myself get sucked back into it. I have :01nocomment8so:

Idk ask James he's the one sitting behind his computer screen fondleing himself because someone actually talked to him on here. According to him whatever he says is the greatest spoken or written word ever. You know what my opinion is already, but others may not agree. That's what makes life interesting

Yeah I'm the fanboy. You're the wanna be audio guru that sits behind his computer and is too afraid to go to comps. Always quick to argue and criticise. Whatever helps you sleep at night. You enjoy disagreeing with anyone just to look like an asshole and you're pretty damn good at. I guess everone has to be good at something.

You are a tool. Find something better to bitch about next time. And the 2400 that I was told the 20.1 was doing was in a burp setup compared to daily setups with the Sundown amps.

How am I overhyping something when I'm stating facts? Just saying what it does and how it does it.

Derrick on Team Sundown is getting 2400 out of his at .5 ohms, but he has a MLA module on his Explorer. On a decent battery at .5 expect to see 2100-2200. Bangin Altima has one at .5 and gets 2100 with his voltage dropping to 13.2 and does 147's off of 2 15's in a trunk car, but this is a different thread all together and I don't wanna get in trouble for going off topic

Cough Sundown 1500D

Over that big head of his

[email protected], Iirc You'd be better off with an amp that does more power for less. Hint: it was already mentioned in this thread.

I was there today for this testing. We played around with Brandon's Bronco too, but he managed to break the Beast woofer that he had in there so we didn't get to take any pics. Brandon destroyes everything. Perfectly good subs broken!!!!