Nightshade

I would go since I live in Greensboro, but I'm actually going to Ohio for the weekend starting Thursday the 23rd. Sucks I'll be out of town when something cool is going to happen. Have fun to those that go.

I don't know what technology they use, but they do produce that kind of power at those impedences. Check em out you'll see.

Actually there is a way to do so. You will need to find a vintage piece of equiptment made by Stiger called an Acumatch. This was something that allowed you to dial in the "dummy" impedence to get the desired load that you wanted at your amp. I never used one but back in '98 I had a sales guy at the local shop trying to sell me some to get my amps down to 1 ohm where they would put out max power. I bet that they are almost impossible to find, but if you look hard enough you may come accross one. Otherwise you can use a JL amp that puts out the same power from 1.5-4 ohms. That would be your only other choice.

I've found that with most 10's that are not of entry level quality they usually work well in 1.25 cubes. You didn't mention what kind of power you'll be using and the more you plan on having the smaller you can make the box. If you're underpowering it then I say go with a bigger box to compensate for some of the power loss.

I have the location of the top secret Sundown compound. I'm going to be there tomorrow and may be able to take some pics of some equiptment if Jacob doesn't release the Ninjaz on me.

2 12's ported. I wouldn't even consider 2 of anything sealed unless I was building a sq car, but then I'd still probably do ported.

I'm guessing that you were running a 1500 per sub? In that case the subs were getting way more power to them since the impedence rise was broken up between two amps instead of one. It's the same situation that I'm having in my car right now. I have a single Crunch 3000D and am doing 148's off of 2 12's and my box rise is to 3.88 ohms. I'm thinking that you were having a similar situation with the two subs off of one amp too. Since each amp was seeing a lower impedence they were more than likely not getting as much rise as the single 3000 and prodcing 2X as much power as the single Sundown. I'm waiting for my two 1500's in my car to see if this is going to put me over 150 the way that I sit now. Good scores either way though. How was the comp?

Is it a box for a comp? If so I see what you're saying. You could always buy some aeroports and take them out of the box and use them in another one when you decide to scrap the one your going to do. 6" aeros are expensive though. The flare is what helps them get so loud too, so just using regular plumbing pipe won't be as loud as an aeroport. It's just something for you to think about.

fucking funny shit man

Agree with that. I suggested a very similar setup with the tuning to 33hz

Dewalt makes a nice battery powered one. We had one at the cabinent shop that I worked at. It was a 14.4, I'm not sure if they make a bigger one or not but it would probably be better to get one with higer voltage.

Damnit!!! I missed this today. I knew I should came instead of going to a job interview. Oh well I'll be there on Monday and maybe something crazier will happen then

4 4's would work, but 2 6's would be more efficient and be louder on the mic

That's exactly what I got, but I'd reccomend going with more port area for 15's. Try a 6 inch aero per sub. That's 27sqin of port per woofer and will be better than just 12.5sqin which is what a 4" aero is. Imo I'd do 3 4" aeros per sub to get almost 37sqin of port per 15. Because that would give you a total of 11sqin of port per cubic foot and would work out great. Only problem is that the port would have to be pretty long. Here are both ideas that I would try before a single 4" per 15. First idea single 6" aero per 15, so 2 total: 6.5cuft internal volume tuned to 33hz would need the port to be 17.14" long which is about the stock length they come in so no cutting would be required. Second idea with 3 4" aeros per 15, 6 total ports: 6.5cuft internal volume tuned to 33hz each port would have to be 25.78" long so it's not that practical. I'd would honestly try 2 6's over 2 4's. You won't have to cut the ports down and you'll be happier to add more port area because it'll make your box a whole lot louder. You don't have to listen to me, but I do know what I'm talking about when it comes to aero ports :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: :hairtrick: with 2 12's off of 1900 watts rms.

Yeah go with the 100.4, and start off with the Hertz 3 ways and then add another comp if you need too. No need in going overboard if it's not necessary. Glad to offer my opinion. Build thread!!!!!!!!!

You might want to be on the safe side and either do more power to the 3 way comp or even add an extra set of 4" or 5 1/4" comps to help out. Two 18's can really drown out some mids and highs if it's got the right box and power behind it. I'd suggest doing this with the three way set. The 6.5 or 8 depending on what comp you get in the lower door. The 4" mid woofer in the A pillar with the tweet from the comp to bring the staging up some. Then an extra 5 1/4" comp and tweet in the kickpanels. That to me would be a perfect setup for two 18's. That way the subs don't overpower the sound quality that you're after too. You'll be able to run 2 sets of comps off of a single 4 channel without any issues. That's exactly how I did in my last car. I had a 6.5" comp mounted as coaxial in the doors and 5 1/4" comps in the kicks. Each side was run off of the front and rear channel that was the same as the side it was mounted on.

I believe that SPL2K also carries hertz. Pm him about getting prices too.

That's a very good question. Maybe one of the battery guru's will jump into this thread and shed some light onto the subject. I would also like to know the answer to this one.

Oh, I didn't see a pic of the coil to know. I've seen several subs in the past have tinsel leads burn and nothing happend to the coils. DC level 4's were one of the subs, and the coils looked brand new still. Shouldn't have been playing that low below tuning to burn them I guess. I've also seen it happen with the Kicker CVR's too and the coil on them was fine. I was just saying that the coils that Rusty uses on those woofers are pretty damn nice. I wouldn't have thought that it would have burnt the coil too is all.

Mb quart makes a really nice 3 way set too. It is a 6.5 woofer, 4mid, 3/4 tweet. They used to have a three way with 8" woofers, but I don't think that they make them anymore. Memphis also makes a 3 way and they do use the 8" woofer with theirs. Anyway you look at it you're gonna shell out some cash for decent sound.

I wouln't count on those coils being burnt up. They're some of the better coils out there. But I agree that Rusty is a decent guy. Too bad about the sub being sent to the wrong address. The subs were just a little out of your ability to fix huh? That sucks you had to send them back, but it happens. Good luck with them when you get them back.

Damn man that's strong for a 1500. I plan on running mine at .5 ohms each but not at that high of voltage. Do you think at that load I'll be somewhat close to you in power?

Sometimes in trunk car subs foward and ports to the side works out very well. Other than that I've always done subs and woofers back and in a couple instances I've done woofers and port foward sealed off from the rear. The one that worked out best for me was everything back.

I can promise that if you do a Sundown Audio Nightshade 15 you won't ever want to run another sub. In comparison it's like a RE Audio MT or a Fi Btl. It has upgradeable options just like the Btl too. Jake is a hell of a guy on customer service and will definately not let you down on product. You've heard of his amps and how badass they are? Well just think how frickin awesome his subs are when pushed by those amps. There's a teamate of mine who has 4 custom Nightshade 18's off of 4 Sundown 3000D's and he's doing 158's in a daily driver. That's almost as loud as Chicken's hoopty with half the subs :hairtrick: I also have another teamate that just went to the Db Drag world finals and did a 160.1 with 16 Sundown 1500d's. Trust me give them a try and you'll be glad that you did.

You do know on pretty much every car on the market you can go to the injector plug to get the tach wire. It's the non common color wire out of the two. That's pretty much the only wire I use to get tach in cars unless I can find it somewhere inside the car so I dont' have to go under the hood.