Nightshade

I know it's not 200 at idle but my Iraggi makes 198 at idle. Close enough if you ask me and I'm sure that quite possibly with a smaller pulley it would do the 200.

Welcome to Team Sundown. I am one of the members here in the US and have been on the team for a year and a half. If you ever need any help I'd be glad to lend a hand. I am a competitor in NSPL here in NC and the surround states, and I also compete in Db Drag for bassrace. I may try some spl in Db Drag this year if I can actually have a chance at going to world finals. I also run a 1 woofer setup that is very loud off of Sundown amps as well as the sub being a Nightshade. I can't wait for the Nightshade V2. I think that your 1 12 is the loudest single sa12 that I've ever seen and is amazing off such low power. What car is this in? Also are you running the amp at 2 ohms, and if so what kind of clamped power are you getting out of it?

The only real way to guarantee that that lights will not dim in a vehicle is to have an alt in the car that always puts out more amperage than what's being consumed by all the electrical components in the vehicle. That means that if you have a 200 amp alt and you turn the lights on that are 20 amps, turn the raido on that's 15 amps, have your heat or ac on which is 20 amps, maybe have a phone or ipod charging good for 5-10 amps, and then have the windshield wipers on for 25 amps, all while playing the system full tilt at a possible 120-150 amps max you are not producing enough amperage to meet all the needs of the electronics. If you aren't running all that stuff and the lights are still diming it is possible that the alt may not be putting out the rated power, your power wire running to the back is not large enough, you have a bad ground. Then there is something that some people get confused about. Even with a high output alt you can still get light flicker. What I mean is that even if you have enough amperage to meet all the requirements the alt can not charge fast enough and the current can't reach it's destination fast enough to prevent the lights from flickering. A flicker would be more of a quick loss of power at the lights opposed to a longer pause in brightness. The only real ways that I can think of to eliminate any flicker or diming what so ever is to add a second alt for just the stereo and have it not wired to any other devices in the car, or put an independent battery on the lights that is not charged by the alt at all that would need to be manually charged while the car is sitting or even by the alt in the car while not using the stereo. You could put a relay of sort on the wire from the alt to the lights to not charge when the stereo is powered on.

Yeah I knew it wasn't DJ's truck from the video. You can see it's an suv near the end when he's on the phone. Since I don't honestly know who's it is I just asked DJ why he did it since he's the team captain. He seemed like the most logical one to blame since he's the one that pushes all the Nemesis guys to the limit. Then you have Brandon who breaks everything he gets his hands on and I figured he may have had a hand in it as well. He's always trying to get me to break my own shit so I don't know why it would be any different with anyone else Also Steve I think you should keep the no wall setup in your Jimmy. Yes it would no doubt be louder if you went with a 4th order in a wall, but you are very loud with the little amount of equiptment that you are running and I know that you can get it much louder with more testing, Nightshade V2's, more power, and maybe even a new box. Don't wall it yet, it's got more in it for sure!

Really DJ? Why do you have to go and break shit? Did Brandon talk you into doing that?

Lol :01nocomment8so:

I can get you pricing on the alt for your car if you want. I'm not 100% if Dom makes one and I doubt that DC makes one either. It would more than likely be a custom job that would be done to get you setup. Pm me with any questionst that you may have about an Iraggi or if you want to talk to the man himself call 615-287-7991. He will be able to tell you if it is possible to get an alt into your car easily, but if you want I can get all the info from him and relay it to you. I'm here to help

You guys wanna wipe your noses off now? J/k, they do pretty good job over here on SMD.

I also do designs with drawings, cut list, and full detail of box specs for customers. I charge anywhere from $15-$30 depending on the size of the enclosure and the amount of detail going into it. I will say that my drawings aren't as good as Sam's or the others but what are you buying a drawing or a box that gets the fuck down? I do have a reputation of building and designing very very loud musical boxes so if you don't want something that's going to be your average run of the mill box hit me up. I'm also the guy here on the forum that specializes in aeroported boxes. It is where I have a great deal more experience then what I believe the others to. I actually reccomend flared ported boxes to all my customers and I will do slot ported boxes but I just know that an aero has so much more potential. All of the guys listed do good work from what I've seen, but if anyone wants a serious ground pounder design for their ride I'd say that I'm qualified to do that for you.

What part of the country are you in? Also congrats and welcome to the team.

1700 watts per level 4 even with level 5 coils is going to equal quite a few recones. I promise you that problems will arise if you run anymore than 1000-1200 watts on one of those subs on a daily basis. I've never seen anyone not have problems with them when running more than 1500 watts to them. I am speaking from personal experience too, and these woofers are not capable of that type of power. If your stuck on DC I believe that it's already been suggested that you should go with the level 4 xl. That would be the smarter choice for you, and would save you from quite a few headaches and emptying your pocket out quite often.

For a good 6K+ watts at .25 ohms I would suggest that you run a Sundown saz4500d. That amp will do every bit of the power that you want and then some. Not to mention that it will run at .25 for burps all day long as many other amps on the market will not. You can even play music on it at .5 all day every day if you want to. I do not think that a pair of level 4's will stand up to that kind of power no matter what amp you run to them producing 6K watts. Get yourself some subs that will handle the power or plan on reconing them a lot or just running less power in the end.

Well if it helps any my dual Nightshade 15 setup that is tuned to 37hz does a 152+ on the dash sealed and loses spl by going to the headrest. Last time I metered it when I was only doing a 151.3 on the dash I could only do a 150.6 at the headrest. And to the op that asked how was a single 8 louder than a single 15. In my car for spl I drop down to a single 15 instead of 2 15's and I gain in spl. The single 15 box is tuned to 46hz instead of 37hz like the 2 15 box is. The single 15 box will also do over a 153 and is generally 1.3-1.5 db louder than my 2 15 box. The main reason is the freq is better for spl in the car the same way the 8's freq is better for spl in the car than the 15 is.

^^^Showoff You guys might as well get this year's product info catalog front page ready for this guy's install, lol.

Got a pair of Clarion 10's that I'll sell you if interested. Here's a pic of them, and they are brand new in the box. I got them origionally for my wife's car and then Fi had a blowout deal on the 12" X woofers so I got her one of those instead. I had them for sale on here before and no one wanted them. I know they're not top of the line, but they are sitting in my closet in my loft doing absolutely nothing at all.

Nathan here are a few of mine that I have done in my Focus ZX3. These are a bit older as of now my pair of D3100's are tucked away in the spare tire well for a better fit. I'm also a member of Team XS Power so if you have a shirt that you want to send to me sometime I wouldn't mind. Scottie never said anything about one and when I had the chance to meet him a month or so ago he never showed up to Dominic's house Anyway enjoy them and hopefully I'll have some pics of the mods that I do to fit a D3100 under the hood in the near future along with trying to squeeze another in the spare tire well. I hope you guys like these and they can be helpful. I know they aren't the prettiest but when you have a daily driver that doubles as a spl vehicle you sometimes have to compromise. I'll be talking to you guys at XS Power again here real soon about some more of the best batteries in the world. Team XS Power FTMFW!!!

What suv is this that you have? The reason I ask is you may be able to fit a D3100 where the battery that you have now is at and that would work well enough as a primary battery on 2500 watts. On top of running a D3100 I would reccomend at least a run of 0 guage to your amp for power and a run of 0 for negative as well. Then there's always the thought of adding a high output alt and can be done down the road when you can either afford it or decide that you would like to keep nice 14 volts while playing full tilt on music.

Is this just a car show or audio competition too?

Okay that sounds good. I think that 2 260's should work fine. I'll pm you once I hear back from Dominick about pricing for you and if he's already got brackets made or not. If you can only do one alt then I think you should do at least a 300 amp or larger. I'd also consider an external voltage regulator if your a competitor. If you just drive the truck daily then I'd say an internal regulator should work just fine then. I'll pm you prices on a dual setup including brackets if they're available. If not I'll still get you pricing on dual 260's and also pricing on a single 300 or larger. I will work on getting the prices to you right away and I hope that I can help you get this setup going for you. Also the alts are by Iraggi incase you didn't figure that out yet. They are the only alt that I honestly reccomend for very modest prices. Don't get me wrong other companies do make a decent alt, but most of them have outrageous prices and Dom doesn't do that sort of thing with his alts.

What kind of power are you planning on running in your truck? I know you said that you currently have a stock alt, but what does your electrical look like as far as batteries and runs of wire? I would guess that if you were planning on running just one alt that you'd probably want a 300 or so amp model but you could run a 240 or 260 and be fine as well. It all depends on how much power you plan on running and how much reserve battery power you have on hand. Let me know these couple things so I can get a better idea of what you need.

Let me see what I can come up with for you. Do you already own a high output alt, or pair of alts? If not I can get you some pricing on one or two of them. I'll also check on a bracket for you to see if there is one already made up. I'm pretty sure that you'll be able to do 2 alts especially if you remove the ac from the truck. Let me get back to you.

What's going to be loudest is if you put the sub in a sealed enclosure and then attach a ported enclosure right in front of the sealed woofer. That would be a variation of what's called a bandpass. Actually it would be a 4th order bandpass and SHOULD be louder and more efficient than both a sealed and ported enclosure. There are other versions of bandpass designs, but if you are looking for overall loudness they are going to be your best bet. They will have a very limited range of frequencies that they will play loudly, but in that limted range they will outperform both ported and sealed boxes that peak around the same freq.

I am a customer of Dom's and this sounds nothing like him at all. I drove to his shop in Tn from Nc and he installed the alt that he built for me in my car himself. I'm sure that there is possibly an issue with something along the way but I find it very hard to believe that you went through several alts and they were all his fault. That is why you want a refund because the multiple alts that you got from him didn't work? I have a feeling that it's to the point where it may be user error or an incorrect install cause I know a person can make a mistake when building something but time and time again I find it hard to believe. I would trust Dom's word in this case because I do remember an issue with you selling an item here on the forum with one of the mod's and you were the one who was supposed to be the one giving the buyer the shaft. So on that note I can't say you have much of a leg to stand on since your business practice is not all that great to begin with. I've had issues with a couple different manufacturers even from this very site and you haven't ever seen me making a public thread to attempt to solve the situation. This is something that needs to be handled in private for the benefit of both customer and manufacturer. What are you achieving by bringing this to a public forum? You are just making yourself look like your crying over something that could very well be your own fault and I'm sure pissing the manufacturer off in the process by making this public by trying to hurt his rep. It shows how very little class you have for the fact that you couldn't keep this behind closed doors and even went to the point of a law suit. Honestly if Dom were completely in the wrong I know he would own up to it and make it right with you based on my own dealings with him I don't see that not happening. I think your trying to get more than what you deserve and in this case I think you deserve nothing for being greedy and trying to drag his name through the mud. If this were me I'd tell you that you weren't going to get shit after you handled it the way you did and gladly invite you to come to the state where I live so we could settle this once and for all. Just do this one thing for me before you continue to persue this in the way that you are. Remember back to when 1LowSuv was calling you out for being a scammer and took it public. How did that make you feel? Did you feel like you had scammed him, or did you feel that you delt with the transaction in a professional manner? Now after reflecting on that maybe you'll handle this situation a little bit better than what you have. If not Karma's a bitch and your probably getting what you deserve weather it happend before or after the same acuasation was made about you.

As long as your running a 12 volt system an MLA module is legal to the best of my knowledge. I've seen competitors use external voltage regulators in a few of the classes but never seem them go over 15.5 volts or so. Hell sometimes when I start my car up it's over 15.5 volts and that was with a stock alt. Now I have an Iraggi and it's around 15.1-15.2 when it's cold. In NSPL it's pretty much about efficiency at lower power except for the 3601-Up classes. The idea of more voltage in a 1801-3600 watt class doesn't really help a lot cause if you go over 3600 watts your moved to the next class up. So weather you make your power at 12 volts or 15 volts it's not that big of a deal if you keep it under 3600 watts. I can see higher voltage actually hurting you in the lower classes since your amps will make more power at that higher voltage it would be easier to go over your power limit. Like I said though for the class your probably going to be in a higher voltage will help a bunch, but there is only so much power that 3 additional batteries will make so you are kinda limited. I would say that it's probably almost impossible to make over 20-25K watts in the class unless you were running 4 Battcap 8400's, 1 up front under the hood and 3 in the rear. Those batts are strong as hell and used to rule the NSPL organization, but now most people can't afford them. Also to answer your other question about having more than 3 batts, you can as long as they are completely unhooked and the judge can see and inspect them to make sure nothing is running into them. So you may have to be able to access them easily and be able to lift them up and show a judge that they're cool. I also run in the Streetbass 149.9 class so it looks like finals could be fun this year since there should me many more people in the class. I only have to get the issue of my amps protecting under control first but there is almost 10 months to figure it out No problem helping you, you know who to ask if you need anything else. :hairtrick: