Neo_frog

That's the great thing about bottom mount spares...unless you put a battery rack in place of it.

Look at the thread I posted. It has the picture of the equation that I posted and the meanings of the variables. It has never failed me.

You are either doing the operations in the wrong order or using incorrect units (of measure). http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/73772-box-tunning-math/

Is it turning on? Is it in protect? Remote voltage? Are the RCAs getting signal? Are the RCAs in the input? Did you check the speaker leads with a 9V? Check that first, then you can start to worry about the amp. EDIT: If there's a protect light, then check the ohm load. Those amps don't like anything below 1ohm without modding.

HUGE files lol.

6 hours away...

x2 Break in is synonymous with loose suspension. It will happen regardless of how you do it.

The old Eclipse Aluminums won the Grand Prix award for SQ two years in a row (don't remember the years (01,02?)). They are also bad ass subs and very loud in both sealed and ported boxes. 1000RMS would be perfect for them, but I think they were rated at 500. It's been a long time. The price is decent I guess, but adding the drive and the possibility of sub abuse, I probably wouldn't go for it. You can get similar subs for about that price from our dealers brand new.

What year is the model? They have the original Eclipse Titaniums, then the new ones that handle less power... If it's the original one, then it is an incredible sub (assuming it's in good shape). They used to be sold for around 500 and they RMS at 1500W iirc. The first 150 I ever heard was two of them in a Trans Am on two Memphis MOJO 2000Ds.

Yes...bass can make your HU skip. The fact that your bass and volume are all the way up, on top of running dirty MP3s, are probably clipping your shit so bad it cuts out. MECA CDs have clean signals and that's probably why it only happens on your burned ones.

And plus, unless they are competitors themselves, chances are they've never experienced a 150. Don't you remember the first system you heard? I think the first one I heard was three Alpine 12s on 1500W and it was CRAZY......eight years ago.

It's been said time and time again about these shops. You gotta remember when you first got into it...you probably thought MTX or JL was the shit because that's all you knew. A lot of these guys have no idea what's out there because their jobs don't require them to. They don't hop on forums to learn about installing because it's probably hard to swallow their pride. Plus they are used to people bringing in subs like Sony and Pyle, so they immediately discredit any more small name brands they hear about. I don't have any shops do my installs, but I am friends with all of the guys who run them. They happen to be pretty cool and when I mention I'm running Fi, DC, T3 etc... they want to hear them. These guys would like to pick up the lines I brings to them, but due to the economy they are stuck with what they have. Car audio picks up during the spring months, but it's not enough to keep them going. They survive on alarms and remote starts.

There's a lot more involved than just 'making' a subwoofer and selling it. This is putting the testing phase aside.

Hey if anybody is interested in Chicagoland area, my job is going to be hiring a couple positions off the street. It's the same job I currently work at and it's damn good money. All you need is 1yr construction experience (or mechanic experience) and you will be selected for the test. They recently hired some pretty hefty resumes for the open ones so just as a little warning. Here is a link to the website with job listings. It is a union position that hasn't posted yet, but keep an eye out in the upcoming weeks. http://careers.enbridge.com/users/folder.asp?FolderID=2125 Most of the listings right now are in Canada or Texas, but the Indiana ones will be open soon.

6.5 is REALLY big for A-pillars, but you can do it. I suggest 5.25s at the biggest for a truck. Unless you are doing coaxials though... Components generally have crazy mounting depth and are most likely what you are thinking about doing. But if not, you could swing 6.5s without too much of an issue (or obstruction).

This is good stuff. The article is pretty funny actually. I'm gonna give this to my wife since she studies brain function. But in all honesty, this is fucked up. I don't feel sorry for people who kill themselves over games, but victim's of violence is another story..

It all depends on the acoustics of your car.

Stang knows his shit. He'll get you where you need to be.

Pics indeed. It's impossible to point out why if we can't see it.

Well for 400 each, I'm selling LVL5 18s.

12 12s and a sufficient amp for under 800?

Dude you can't be using that tone when the lion gets here.

It's a good practice to run multiple wires from front to back to 'up' the ampacity of your potential draw. This is generally dependent on the size of the amp(s) and size of the alternator(s) but it's never a bad idea to have a little overkill. And like DJ said, due to the unibody design it's better to run as many negative wires as positive.

Bad ass. Those subs get damn loud.