Ben Building

What are you using it for?

True.

Cool.

Of course the enclosure is the most important aspect though.

NEW UPDATE!!! 2-24-09 YOU MUST HAVE 150 POST TO POST AN ITEM FOR SALE

If you need 3,000 watts, but only have $175, just do the SENSIBLE THING and save some more money to buy yourself a halfway decent amp. The good news is you are about halfway there. Good luck...

I think those used to be my amps. Bump for some good amps!!

Those are some nice subs. What are you driving them with? By any chance, are those 'diamonds' on your dustcaps?

I have sold 18 used cars below $5000 since January in Columbia, South Carolina. This is what the local market supports, but things don't look very plum out here for car sales. Good luck out your way though...

If you absolutely have to keep the amp, why not trade for some dual 4 or dual 1 ohm subs? The way I see it, you've paid for amp power you're not getting right now. If you didn't want more volume, we wouldn't be reading this post. In order to get your components to perform to their full potential, you're gonna have to switch SOMEthing. lol

If you have the bread go for quality no question. You will not be disappointed. If not, then those 30 inch Audiopipes will get you by.

Have you thought of going with a bandpass box? Since you seem to be looking for added power and extension, you might go with a low-tuned bandpass. These are more efficient than ported, but only within a narrow range.

There was a company about 10 years ago that marketed enclosed subs under the name B-52. As I recall, they had a 10 with the same 60 oz. magnet as the then-current Kicker C/F10 (big name subs then). The B-52s sold at flea markets and stuff. They weren't BAD speakers per se, it's just that you shouldn't expect competition-level performance from a marketing ploy.

Something that's going to blow up in your trunk!!!

Are you still interested in subwoofer amps? If so, I have two American Bass VFL 100.1s http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=33576. I am asking $550 + shipping. What area are you in?

Do you absolutely have to have rf for this power range? If you're flexible, check out this American Bass VFL 100.1 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=33576. The amp has never seen wires and is rated at 1,500w RMS at 1 Ohm.

I have a brand new American Bass VFL 100.1 for $275. PM me if you're interested.

Back in the day, I remember guys adding huge capacitors to their amps' capacitor banks. Whether this actually translated into more power or a higher damping factor is anybody's guess.

I need to get a pair of Kicker L7s reconed too, Bro, so I know your frustration at having to look at your destroyed subs. BUT, if you ever want to hear those speakers again, DONT try to recone them yourself! Just saving your cake and sending them to the manufacterer would be 100 times easier than trying to do it yourself.

You want strong amps for a good price? I have two 4 month old American Bass 100.1s for $580 shipped. One has never been hooked up and the other has been running at 2 ohms on 2 Lanzar OPTI 1232Ds for about 3 months.

I have two American Bass VFL 100.1s for $580 shipped.

I have a Kenwood Excelon DDX 7015 for $350 plus shipping. Pics:

Light Emitting Diodes are not exactly cutting edge technology anymore. Those might work just fine. If they do, put in a reply, bro, cause those pink ones look like something up my girl's alley.

That's a good point you made, PT. Although, lots of people have DEI alarms, most people don't have the same installer do it in the EXACT same way. The factory has to for servicing reasons. I've never moved a factory alarm brain (in fact, I don't recall ever having to even work oonn one), so it didn't occur to me to do that. I'd say that mitigates a lot of my security concerns with the bypass kits. Also, we have to keep in mind that the bad guys won't know whether the alarm is a stand-alone unit or a bypass kit using factory wires. Only having to make four connections for an alarm install is great! The only drawback is, the time you save on installation is going to be subtracted from the cost of the bypass kits and programming modules, is it not? This is probably asking too much but, do the bypass kits allow for remote start installation without having to run an injector or tach wire and without a VATS or PASSLOCK bypass?

So, then the object is to use as much pre-existing factory wiring as possible. This is a good idea since, in my experience, it's hard (read, 'time consuming') to match factory wiring for reliability. This makes a better business case for one of the most lucrative reasons for running a shop or whatever. Nevertheless, I think for a lot of guys when I say that, in my own vehicle, I don't want the same alarm wiring as anybody else. If a theif is going to disable my alarm, I don't want him to be able to research my wiring. Who agrees?