lowpt

no, i only have the mag. it just happened to come with the 17 when I bought it.

The 30 rd magazine is for the model 18 which is full auto.

This is the rifle I use for squirell hunting. It is a Ruger 10/22 with a folding stock.

This is one of my handguns. It is a Glock 17. The picture has the 30 round magazine in it. I also have a 17 round and a 10 round magazine for it.

I do not reccomend you cut your springs. In many cases it can be dangerous. The spring may not sit right in the pocket or perch and could come out. If this happened while driving at speed it could be bad. You will also be more pleased with the ride of aftermarket springs.

Nice pistol! I love me some Ruger!! I used to own a Super Blackhawk .44. It is one of the guns I wish I had kept.

Couldn't he use the red as long as he isn't deep cycling(draining to 0) them?

Friggin' hilarious!!!!

I agree with Gazoo. What kind of car is it? Something older with fairly flat windows would be something good for a first timer. If the rear has a defroster you can cut smaller strips and make seams at the defroster lines. This method is a little easier for a novice than shrinking. Again will will want to do your cuts on the outside of the vehicle. Make sure when you do the cuts outside that the clear is facing you. If you do decide to do it yourself, buy your tint from a shop. They usually have no problem selling film to do it yourselfers.

Sitting at the machines drinking free drinks was the best part of our trip to LV!!

I'm confused. The title says Ipod touch 3G. They didn't/don't make a 3g touch. That would be an Iphone. The OP needs to clarify. I agree that Parentnoia wasn't post dumping, he was looking out for the OP and the other forum members.

A t-bevel square will come in handy when figuring out and setting up any saw for those odd angles.

doesn't Iwanna have a site?

Here is a quick explanation by Grizz Archer on class D. What's the deal with class D Technology?! I have heard many, ridiculous definitions for class D topologies. I've heard people say, of course, that D stands for digital or even that the class is like a report card grade; A is the best type of amp, B is the second best, and so forth. These people must not know that topologies go far beyond the F grade... Actually, D just means 4. A was the first type of amp recognized by the IEEE, a group of professional electronic engineers. B was second, C was third, D was fourth, blah blah blah blah... Truth is, there is no such thing as a digital amplifier! If digital information is written in 1s and 0s, then what would a digital amp do? That's right, make big ones and zeros!! ;^) Class D technology is growing in the 12 Volt industry for years now. There are quite a few companies producing these amps and I suspect a few more companies will jump on the wagon for good reasons. The main reason is for dramatically increased efficiency. This is done by "Switching" and is therefore a "switching amplifier" as compared to a non-switching amplifier like a class A amplifier. A class D amp can be 80%-90% efficient while a Class A/B (which most amps are) will fall into the 50-60% range. Let's say we have two identical vehicles and we are going to put a class A/B sub amp into one of the vehicles and a class D into the other. Both amps, for comparison put out 1,000 watts RMS with 12 Volts. The vehicle with the class A/B amp will draw approximately 160 amperes of current and, being 50% efficient, will put out 1,000 watts of heat into the heat sink! Bummer, huh?! The class D amp will only draw around 98 amperes to yield the same 1,000 watts RMS output. Not only will your vehicle like you better for not draining the power supply, but the amp will like you better as well because now you will only produce about 175 watts of heat into the class D heatsink! For you tweakers, that's 40% less current draw and 82% less heat for the heatsink dissipate... Class D is great for bigger sub amps only as the benefits do not outweigh the cost for a smaller amp. So, why don't people make a class D amp to play 20Hz to 20kHz?! Not a simple answer, but here goes... The audio signal is used to modulate the shape of the square-looking waves of high frequencies. Then the high frequencies are eliminated, leaving audio output. The type of modulation used is called Pulse-width Modulation, or PWM. PWM, like the power supply in many car audio amps is used. Truth is, a PWM power supply is an amp that has DC output only. If you want to play 20kHz you would have to have the output devices switch at hundreds of kHz which almost reaches the AM radio frequencies. You see, the Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) wave frequency must be a lot higher than the desired playing frequency. To play 500Hz, we only need to switch at a frequency around 60kHz. The problem is that when you modulate the switching frequency back down, it gets a bit dirty. Clean enough for subwoofer frequencies, but not clean enough for high-end mid/high frequencies. In summation, class D amps put out more power and less heat with less current consumption. But as for now, they are only beneficial as larger subwoofer amplifiers. by: Grizz Archer

Any thoughts on this router? it looks as though it is only 1/4". Would not being able to accept 1/2" be a big deal?

Basswolf- you said "not Dual or Jensen" a couple of times. Can I ask what you have against them? I have a Jensen VM9512 and love it. It has inputs for almost any type of media you want to use. I love the fact that my son can watch or listen to one thing in the rear while I have something different in the front. Just be sure to check all brands looking for options you want. Hopefully you will find something you like and are willing to spend the money on.

In SC a truck or van doesn't have to be able to see out the rear window. You can block or tint as dark as you want and a PT is classified with trucks,vans and suvs

I have a camera in my hatch where the key hole is. I have it wired to a switch so I can turn it on when I need it. I can see a car right up to my bumper on either side. This is very useful for lane changes. The motorcyle mirrors on my car suck ass for the most part. So, the cam is a real life saver.

Holy shit. I tried it again before my last post and it still didn't work. Tried again after the post and it worked.

I'm on a computer. I have tried many times clicking where you say and nothing.

That's what the help files said do as well. Clicking my name does nothing.

I purchased some parts from a member. He sent me the email address for paypal via PM. After reading the message I had trouble finding a way back into the messenger. I ended up using the link sent to my email. Can someone tell me ho to get into the meseenger to view read messages?

Cool video.

Sweet, another upcoming cruiser build.