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You can ground it by the amps chassis (not a good ground though) or directly to the negative ring terminal for your amps ground. I personally took my alligator clip from the dd-1 and cc-1 and put it around the ring terminal on my batteries ground wire. It has no difference in the readings at all as long as the ground is solid and your wires arent going to move around. Having the ground clip or the positive probe on the dd-1 and cc-1 moving will cause the readings to skew due to the friction and resistance presented in the moving connection and will throw off your results. If its hard to get to your amps ground id suggest doing this CAREFULLY!!!! Take a paperclip or soldered speaker wire and poke that into the little opening where the wire goes into the amps ground terminal, clip your dd-1 or cc-1 to the paper clip and make sure it will not come into contact with your amps positive or remote wires and short out. This will work as well.

Hmm thats so weird. Id see if maybe you can connect the relays themselves (the wires that go to your battery) to an external power source like a battery charger or battery and turn them on. See if that resolves the issue. It could be that the power it draws is full of noise or something.

Sounds like interference to me. Just try to do a hack job and get the ballasts as far away from power wire as you can. See if that helps, if it does then try to locate a spot far away from the wire where you can mount the ballasts. Just a quick thought, did you run a relay for each of your hid's or did you plug the ballast straight to the stock wiring that goes to your bulbs?

Watching it doesnt mean crap for belt slipping. Belt slipping you can almost never detect by eye. Belt slipping will not make the belt just freeze movements and then out of nowhere come back, thats not at all how belt slipping works. Belt slipping is when your pulley is spinning at a different speed than the belt itself. Just try what i mentioned and see what happens. Whats it going to do to hurt you anyways? get a cheap spray bottle, fill it with tap water ONLY and spray the flat side of your belt first and then the ribbed side after ONLY IF the squeaking doesnt go away when you spray the flat side first. If spraying either side doesnt correct the squeak then you have a bad pulley bearing, take the belt off and try to rock every pulley side to side and up and down. The pulleys shouldnt rock more than about the thickness of one of the ribs on the belt. If it does replace that pulley or component immediately.

Here you go: This is what you should try. As for the dimming lights, when your belt is slipping it is gliding over the pulley on your alternator or other pulleys rather than spinning them. This means that for a second or however long the slipping occurs your alt is not actually spinning and that causes the drop in voltage. You need to correct the slipping or your alt will die from overheating with how hot those pulleys get (most alternator pulleys will turn deep green in color if they are getting too hot).

Actually kranny its not about getting the ribs to line up. You need a laser tool to bolt onto the crankshaft and line up one slot of the rib to each pulley that is ribbed. You can also kinda line it up with a piece of white yarn and eyeball it from the side to see if lines up. My alternator is off by half a rib but im not that concerned about it.

Yes, i had squealing on my envoy from a lack of tension depending on where the belt tensioner was located and the idler pulley on my truck is known for crapping out often so mine was shot and that was squeaking all the time because the bearing grease leaked out of the idler pulley under my alt. I replaced the tensioner, idler pulley and put a fresh belt on it and have had no problems since then. Plus i always get a new belt every so often from advance auto when mine starts to get really badly glazed over and they do it under warranty.

What happens if you have the vehicle off but the key turned to ACC and manually fire up the lights? does it kick the amp into protect as well? It could be that you are sending too much noise through the power on the amp but its hard to tell without isolating it. Id say to try and take the ballast and have it hang off the side of your engine while you are playing around with it to see if getting it away from the power cable helps it any. Maybe if i can suggest take zip ties or if your ballast has them like futurevision has on mine bolt them up the underside of your front shroud on your vehicle. There should be a ton of spots under there.

It could be like kranny said and get EMI from it. Try to move the ballast as far away from there as you can. I know when i turn mine on i can hear a click of the relays engaging and the ballasts kicking on. When i try to turn on my high beams and its cold out those damn 50w ballasts never both fire up, its one of them that fires until i keep re-igniting them and when that happens i can hear the buzzing until the ballast quits trying to ignite. Other than that i never hear anything for feedback through my speakers at all.

Try the water trick to see what is causing it to squeal. Spray just water on the flat side of your belt, if the squealing goes away then you have a tension problem and i suggest replacing the tensioner and belt and cleaning up all the pulleys with brake parts cleaner to make them oil free. Now if you spray the water on the ribbed side of the belt and the squealing goes away then you have a problem with the alignment of your pulleys and need to find which one is off center and correct it. The ribbed pulleys should all line up perfectly with the crankshaft pulley at the bottom of your engine. Belt wrap is an issue where you dont have enough surface area of the belt coming into contact with the pulley that has a strong demand (alternator, power steering pump, etc). Normally most pulleys have at least 1/2 of the pulley covered by the belt, if you dont have this then you should look into getting a pulley to put next to the alt to get the extra grip on the alt. Also belt slip on an alt heats up the pulley which in turn heats up your alt really fast and can burn it out so get it corrected as soon as you can.

does the 3sixty.2 come with the remote bass knob and remote cable? Please send me a pm. Thank You edit: how about the install cd that has all the test tones on it?

no problem. it deff is what the problem lies to. My old alarm had the same ability to get upgraded to a 2 way system and it came with the remote like you have and the antenna to upgrade it too. If i were you just to be safe get the 2 way receiver/transmitter and the cable for it just incase the cable that is for the 1 way system is not completely run. I doubt it isnt but you need to look at the prongs on that compared to the 2 way receiver/transmitter when you get it.

your fan is fully electronic correct? If its not i had a noise like that but not as bad when my clutch for my fan had quit. Its an electronic clutch but the fan is driven by my water pump. It would make a sound like you are rattling the hell out of the fan shroud but mainly at 1500-2000 rpm's and then go away if i gave it more or less gas. I would just for the ease of it remove the belt and check all the pulleys on your car for any wobbling if you pull them up and down or side to side, if it moves a lot then the bearing on that pulley is shot and needs replacing. I dont think its the belt doing that or anything on that part of the system but you should really get that corrected before your belt shreds on you. When this noise does your fan on the radiator spin any faster than it normally did? Maybe the fan is a little loose and it is spinning faster temporarily to cool off the system briefly and it is rocking the fans housing around? Idk without being there to hear it in person to trace its sound. If you rev up the speed on the engine does that sound get faster and louder? Does this happen when the engine is warmed up or even when its completely cold after sitting overnight? If it was a lifter you would not hear it going that fast for the knock and if they were coming into contact with your piston it would make a slight pinging noise from what i heard on my friends car. Please get back to me on that.

sounds like its a pulley or belt issue for the squealing Try this, get a spray bottle and fill it with water (ONLY WATER) and spray it on the flat side of your belt. If the squealing goes away temporarily and comes back you have a tension issue, if you spray the ribbed side of your belt and the squeaking temporarily goes away but comes back then you have an alignment issue with one of your pulleys. I had this with my 04 envoy and i put a new belt, tensioner and idler pulley on. The idler pulley was squealing but i figured what the hell im doing the work so might as well finish it off with a fresh tensioner too and since my belt was slipping before i put a brand new belt on too. Also what i strongly recommend to do is take brake parts cleaner and thoroughly clean every pulley on your belt drive system. Spray a old clean rag with the brake part cleaner and wipe every pulley until the cloth remains clean after you wipe it off. do NOT spray this on the pulley itself as the brake cleaner can seep into the bearings of the pulley and dry them up. For that horrible grinding issue i believe that is your fan. What happens if you kill the ignition right as that starts to happen?

did you replace the antenna on it? You cannot just simply put the 2-way remote on the system and make it work. The antenna that comes with that is default as 1-way (see page 23), you need the 2-way antenna to make it send a reply signal to your 2-way remote. Without that antenna it will just take whatever it gets for locking and unlocking but it will not page you at all. Its basically like a 2-way radio. You can make them a 1-way radio by disabling the mic button for certain frequencies. This is whats going on here, the stock antenna/receiver is just a 1 way unit.

your voltage wouldnt go up when you raise the engine speed at all. I would check the amps connections for any loose speaker wires. I had it before where i punched the gas but i have NOTHING holding my rear batteries down and at the time i didnt have the 1/2 thick rubber paddles under my front and rear battery to prevent them from sliding and the battery slid all the way to the tailgate and yanked the power wire from my 3sixty.2. I went to push the batteries back in place and put the power to the 3sixty.2 but dumbass me never turned off the radio and as soon as the processor got power all i heard was a loud pop and all the amps were in protect. I thought for sure i fried the speakers or amps but they were fine after i powered off and back on my radio. If your amp is not 100% secure just check for loose power or speaker wires and any rca's being loose. Thats where i would start.

Its one of two things. Your starter solenoid isnt fully engaging so that your starter is half grinding on your flywheel or the flywheel itself has a bald spot on it from the teeth of the gear being ground down. Try to tap on the starter with something like a 2x4 or a pole if you have one but dont slam on it. if that doesnt work try to unbolt the starter from the side of the engine iirc its in the drivers side but idr and im not at home to check my dads tahoe to see. Heres a video of how to change it: Super easy to change them just disconnect the power completely because its super easy to short out the power wires for your starter and they are NOT fused so if you short it out it will keep arcing until you separate the wire that is shorting.

Here are some pics i took with my phone of where my power and ground wires are in the front of my envoy. Your truck may not have the ground block i was talking about above the alt but see in the pics. This is the ground location on my frame underneath the battery tray on the drivers side frame rail. I drilled the hole, used a wire brush on a dremel to scratch the frames paint off and then used my dads tap and die kit to put threads into the frame and bolted the bolt to the frame. That bolt is the tightest one i put on my frame. My rear ground was a pain in the ass. picture 1 of the location where my +12v 1/0 goes into the firewall through the cabin. I couldnt get a pic of it in the cabin because i didnt want to tear down the lower part of my dash where my alarm is, too many wires down there. lol. power and ground wires between my engine/alt and battery. the wire going from the black terminal on my battery that is in the ribbed cover is the ground wire for my engine. It was easier to put it up there.: again.

I havent ran any wires underneath my truck yet but this summer i will because im not drilling a hole in the same grommet again and try to fit a ground wire next to the power wire on the same run. I planned to use the cargo bolt that i modified in the rear as a junction so that i will have one end of my ground connected to that and then a continuous run to the ground of my battery under the hood. I was thinking to run that right along the outside of my frame rail up near the top so its out of the way. Havent looked into too much detail for if its possible but i will find out this summer when i jack it up and look at it. lol. The firewall is way easier but that grommet i used is a pain in the ass to cut through since it has a solid rubber center on it and i went very slowly so that i didnt slip and cut the wire harness that comes in from there. I then made the hole just big enough to fish my 1/0 through it but it was super tight so i would have no water leaking through it. Then to finish it off i took air conditioner putty and put that right around the outside of the wire for extra waterproofing. Im overkill with a lot of things but id rather be safe than sorry. haha.

I have the same alt in my envoy, they make them and he had one sitting on the shelf last time i knew. he had a post about it somewhere on here ill try to find it for you. sorry bro i couldnt find the for sale thread on here that i stumbled upon the other day with that exact alt. Their website sells one http://www.mechmanhighoutputalternators.com/shop/products/270-amp-Extreme-Service-GM-alternator-T-mount-4-pin.html Id call mechman at 1-888-MECHMAN (632-4626). They will take good care of you. Matt has helped me with some minor problems i ran into with my previous car i had an alt for from them as well as my envoy when i had belt slipping. I am proud to own a mechman alt.

I have the same style engine and connections but i have an Envoy instead. I grounded from my battery to the bolt that holds the huge metal bracket that is above the alternator (you are supposed to use it as the grounding location when jump starting and it says "gnd" on the part) and i drilled a hole on the frame near the very front and bolted a ground to the frame after i cleaned it up. I have 0 resistance in those connections and its easier than using the bolt on your alt as the alt is a pain in the ass to get to unless you pull your wheel and fold back the wheel well and get to them plus its hard to fit a ring terminal on that connection to begin with. edit: for the wire run i used a pair of carpenter scissors and cut the huge rubber grommet that goes from the inside of my engine to the bottom of my firewall. If you look under the master cylinder there is a huge black rubber grommet that is about 2-3 inches big, i cut a hole through the grommet and fed my 1/0 through that. Then i pulled my carpet back and removed the foam foot rest block and cut a slot into it so that my 1/0 would fit into that neatly and not make a bump on the carpet then continued to run the wire to the back right next to the clips that hold down the bottom trim pieces.

Its hard to understand what you are getting at so im sorry. But do you mean you want to take it so that your super tweeters are run off just the 2 channel amp and then ONLY your mids are run off the 4 channel amp? Also you are thinking 100% correct with what you are doing now. You just have to be sure to make the left and right side connections. For example if the left input on your 2 channel is channel 1, make sure that you connect the y-adapters output to channel 1+2 on your 4 channel. Channel 1+2 on your 4 channel will be used for the mids on the left side of your vehicle and channel 1 on your 2 channel amp will be used for the super tweeters on the left of your vehicle. Your thinking is perfectly correct now, just make sure you have the left and right setup correctly. Dont want to make the rca connections right and have your speakers hooked up in reverse lol. I highly suggest getting a sharpie to make small marks on your rca and speaker connections so you know what wire goes where. I used a label maker with mine and it helped immensely. One final thing: Im not sure what you meant by "use the fronts of my alpine" do you mean to hook up your speakers to the speaker output of your headunit? If so DO NOT do this. The speaker outputs will clip way before the rca's will clip and your sound will not be even.

It only matters that you match the left and the right for your rca and speakers. For example you connect the left (white) rca from your headunit to the channel 1 input on your 125.2 and then connect the right (red) rca from your headunit to the channel 2 input on your 125.2. Next you will take the splitter i linked in the earlier post and connect that to the channel 1 output of your 125.2 rca connection and the other to the channel 2 rca connection on your 125.2 so that you have a total of 4 rca outputs on the 125.2 (2 per channel output). Then since you connected the left channel to channel 1 of your 125.2, the channel 1 output of the amp's rca connection will also be the left channel. So take the rca's that go off there and use that for the speakers that will be on the left side of your car. Then for the two channel 2 outputs on your 125.2 this will be the right channel for your speakers in the vehicle. To answer your question about how to hook the outputs from your 125.2's rca to the 4 channel im not sure how you are planning to run it. Are you planning to make it so that you have 2 channels dedicated to just your mids and the other 2 channels for your highs? If so heres how you HAVE to wire it. Take one of the rca outputs from your 125.2 (lets say the left one) and connect this to channel 1, then take the right output from your 125.2 to the channel 2 of your 4 channel amp. You then would use the channel 1 output of the 4 channel amp as the left speaker output. and channel 2 as the right speaker output for your mids. Then you would take the remaining output and hook it up to channel 3 and 4 respectively as before and keep the same polarity and balance. If you are still lost please let me know, i can make a quick sketch up for you and scan it if you need me to.

here is their site: http://www.missinglinkaudio.com/id24.html The MLA will set off the check engine light on most applications so just a heads up but it will run just fine. Meade had a MLA before he got the xs power VCM for his tahoe and his MLA made the check engine light come on and stay on, the xs power VCM had corrected his check engine light.

Just a suggestion for the OP but have you traced the wires to your fusebox and your starter to make sure nothing else was connected to them (idr what the stupid things are called but its like a clamp that goes around the wire that will detect your current draw and change your vehicles charging voltage to conserve fuel). You can always just take the stock cable and get some 4ga and run that to the stock locations and mount it right on the top terminal of your d6500. Something else you could do but i really wouldnt recommend it would be to get something like a fuse holder and a bit of 4ga wire then chop off the stock GM connector and put the gm wire into the other side of the fuse holder. That would work but i feel uneasy about that for your starter. edit: dont get the i-bar for it either. you CANNOT modify the i-bar as the part where the i-bar comes into contact with your battery terminal has a indentation and it will not line up on your battery nor will it have a solid connection. As BeAlLsTaR13 mentioned the i-bar has a little slot on the top of the battery that holds the i-bars into their slots so they cannot move around or get shorted out. You can do like i previously mentioned or contact tookmaker to have a custom side bracket but idk if he has anything he can do for it because the GM connections are not 100% flush and require lead to be on the face of the connector so that when you screw in the terminal it will "sink" into the terminal to prevent it from slipping, without that soft area of the metal your connection will not be strong and may heat up.