kickass audio

connect the 2 rca's coming from your headunit to the 125.2. get two male to 2 female y-adapters and connect this to your 125.2 amps rca labeled "output". then get short rca's and connect to the splitter then to your 100.4. this is what the adapter looks like: http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1920&bih=955&authuser=0&tbm=isch&tbnid=646ZX_w4BnSJnM:&imgrefurl=http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/monster-cable-male-rca-to-2-female-rca-cable-adapter&docid=CblXpAJD9OepuM&imgurl=http://static.musiciansfriend.com/derivates/18/001/208/120/DV016_Jpg_Large_330083.jpg&w=700&h=664&ei=_zFdT-HpCuT30gHmo7itDw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=1352&vpy=454&dur=355&hovh=219&hovw=231&tx=130&ty=90&sig=103182322391766689277&page=1&tbnh=142&tbnw=150&start=0&ndsp=60&ved=1t:429,r:7,s:0

Thank you man i didnt know that. Thanks for the correction. Id never mount them upside down anyways but thats great to know.

You can mount them in ANY direction even upside down AS LONG as the terminals cannot be shorted out. Most people dont like to mount them upside down because first of all its going to be hard to get to the terminals to unbolt the wire if you need to take a lead out or put one on and second if the holder for the battery fails and the battery collapses your battery will most likely short out and cause a fire.

this ^^^^^ even if it has numbers every 10hz (which i RARELY, IF EVER, Have seen), you still are not going to nail it. The chances of that silk-screen logo matching up with your screwdriver-eyeball is slim to none. The only way would be if your amp adjustment actually "clicked" at each frequency, telling you you are on the right number. (if that makes sense). I have never seen an amp that did that. Some high end crossovers but never an amp. (not saying there isn't one though) its usually 50-400hz (or so) with a whole lot of nothing in between...i, like most of you, have been guessing all my life - so im not better then anyone else lol - but not anymore! Not trying to bash you Steve, i have the DD-1 and CC-1 and i LOVEEEE them. But I have and still have a Precision Power PC-2350 amp and it does 1400w rms at 4 ohms since its a 2 channel amp. The x-over for the lowpass has detents or clicks on it like you described. The bass boost (pfft who uses those) also had them so you know how many db's you are boosting at. So like you said its rare but they are out there. But for anyone who thinks they will only use it once it wont matter. The quality of the product and the quality of your system because of using them both will be amazing. I used to have it like Steve said with setting the amps at full pass and using the x-over settings on my 3sixty.2 but the .2 i have screws up and isnt that accurate as i found out. What i set to 60Hz highpass is really 65Hz and the CC-1 had found this. Now i have a precise system and it is sounding better than ever. I also used the cc-1 on my amps x-over settings so if my 3sixty.2 decides to fail on the x-over settings like it did to my SMD before and make it bottom out so i set the x-overs on both to make them as accurate as possible and i am so happy with the results of it. So just thinking your sound processor will do the work isnt always the case. Spend the money and get them both and you will be happy. Ive tuned my system (mids and highs only for now, my sub amp isnt in as my SMD is getting reconed by myself) and my co-workers car and it sounds great.

Basically just look at the bottom of your door, there will be like a ledge where the rubber door seal will sit against when you close the door. Right where that ledge is there is a small oval hole on them and sometimes they use rubber flaps on them to help seal them up from getting dirt and stuff in your door but they will be down there. Just take a brand new knife and cut it through the damp pro and you will be fine. Or like previously mentioned you can always drill a few new holes but i wouldnt go that route.

The rain enters through the seal around your windows. They are rain tracks to help allow the rain to fall into the door and then drain out the bottom. The damp pro isnt that thick, using a very sharp or brand new utility knife will fix it up or get a hole punch and stab a hole through it to find the holes in the damp pro itself then cut it out a bit. They are usually the size of a sharpened end of a pencil or the eraser of a pencil. Sometimes they have rubber flaps on them like my Envoy does, some are just metal openings. They are on the outside lip of the door (if you open the door and push your fingers toward the outside they reside on the part of the door that goes down below the bump in your door to which the panel attaches to). Kinda like the ledge of the bottom of the door.

Ive done it on my oldsmobile, my dads envoy and my moms impala and never had any problems. I have heard of people running into problems with it but mainly its the fuel consumption is increased because of it. Another thing you can do is change the size of your idler pulley if you have one on your engine. Those are super easy to change, just remove the belt, unscrew the bolt and bolt the new one on. Easy as that.

IDK your engine but is it an electronic throttle body or is it a manual (cable driven) throttlebody? If its cable driven almost all engines ive tinkered with have a set screw on them near the butterfly opening to adjust how far open the throttle will remain when you are not depressing the gas pedal. Opening these up enough with your car in drive and getting the right idle speed to keep the alt charging will be your easiest bet. To do this id recommend getting a buddy to sit in your car holding the brake pedal down while dropping the car into gear while you are under the hood adjusting the set screw. Now if you cant find help heres what you can do. Get a brick and place it in front and in behind of your wheel to act as a wheel chuck and then test your emergency (parking) brake to see that it functions. Once you confirm it works roll down your driver side window as if there is an emergency or accident you can grab the keys and kill the ignition fast, find the set screw on your throttlebody if you have one, turn on your car and let it warm up for about 2 minutes and put it in drive with your parking brake engaged and wheel chucks in place. Now get a volt meter to help you see where your alt starts to charge at 14.4v and open up the screw on the throttle body until it gets the voltage up to that level. Once you have this change gears and put it in reverse (this usually isnt needed but while you are at it, might as well make sure you dont drop engine speed in any other gears but park and neutral) and test it. Once you have it like that ride it around the block and stop dead at a stop sign or red-light and see if your alt stops charging and adjust as needed.

10ga direct leads should get in the speaker outputs of that amp no problem. Looking at the pics of it online it looks like its 8ga outputs like my amps have. The power connections will be close for how they are right next to eachother. Usually amps that have the remote wire between the positive and negative have ample room for using a reducer. In your case id say just go out and buy a little distro block that goes from 1/0 to 4ga (they are out there so dont say they are not, i believe rockford has one that is very small but its not fused) and get like 6 feet of 4ga wire (3 for positive and 3 for negative) and then use the 4ga to go from the distro block to the amps + terminal and then from the amps ground to the chassis ground. The only thing im not sure is your direct leads. If you have a big box the direct leads may not exit the box allowing you to connect it to the amp. Im not sure on the length of them but if they are long enough for you to just connect without making a connection on the box itself then just take the direct leads and unscrew the terminal on the amp and shove that wire in there and crank it down. It will fit for sure. 10ga is pretty common for subs now so only cheap crappy amps will not have a opening big enough for that.

Reducers wont make the amp hot and they have never shorted out with a few amps i used mine on. They get close but some shrink wrap at the nearest harbor freight or radioshack will fix that for you along with electrical tape if you are still concerned. Also why does the amp need to have 10 gauge speaker outputs? Is that the wire you are using or something?

I dont always think the gauge inputs or number of inputs makes the amp. I had a stetsom 2k6d amp that had 2ga wire inputs for the power and ground (they were really 4ga but the holes were big enough and i even stuffed all of my tsunami 1/0 in there) and that amp was clamped at over 2800w rms at 5 ohms. The amp mind you was a 2 ohm model rated to do 2600w rms at 2 ohms on a 14.4v system. I wish i never sold that amp knowing that about it now. Either way they do have distro blocks though they are usually fused that will accept 1/0, two 4/8ga inputs and then give up to 4 4/8ga outputs with a fuse between each output. I myself have one and would sell it to you if i knew for sure id never use it but they are out there. I say just stick it out and either get a distro block or a pair of reducers for it and be done with it, worry about upgrading the amp and everything else later. edit: just was going through the f/s thread on here and found this http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/135732-for-sale-20-10-wire-reducers-4-ch-amp-d3400-xs-tweeters-midranges-speaker-wires-terminals/ The guy has 3 pairs of 1/0 to 4ga reducers and thats the exact same one i used on an old precision power amp i have.

Exactly what Cody said. My 5.0k clip light rarely came on but since i got the dd-1 and cc-1 i know for sure i was clipping the amps and sub when i was playing music. The light didnt illuminate until the amp had enough voltage to predict the clipping. So the light is more of a reference, it is by no means accurate. It will not illuminate if you are clipping the signal before the amp, it will only illuminate if the amp itself is clipping.

I thought about the whole idea of the metal being exposed one next to the other and heres how you can fix that. Either get a pack of ring terminals and slip one of the rubber boots that they come with over the top of the wire and the reducer or get some shrink wrap tubing and put that over both pieces and be done. You can do both if you prefer too. You can also get a distribution block to go from 1/0 to 4ga. Use a distro block for your positive to go from 1/0 to 4ga and then get some 4ga wire to use as your ground and call it a day. 4ga is pretty cheap and Knu has theirs with a great amount of wire strands and a great price too.

I have quit 6 jobs so far and every one i have always said it like "(insert boss' names here) I would like to let you know that I have found a position elsewhere that is closer to the career i am pursuing with my education and personal interests and would like to give you my two weeks notice" Now some bosses like to have a formal letter about this to keep on their file for HR reasons so be prepared with one. Some places can be douchebags and just remove you from the schedule on the spot so be prepared to not come back to work the next day and have some money put aside if you havent already to cover that gap in income. Other than that you should be fine, what are they gonna do to you anyways fire you? bahahaha

That should deff help. Let me know how it goes for you.

How hard is it to pull out the sub and feel the motor? If its fairly easy check it that way and see. It could be like fox_racing4 said and just need to be worn in a bit. I had that with my mids when they were new and they smelled like i was frying them for a month before it broke in and never had the smell again.

8ga is very overkill for that. I would run 10 gauge for it unless you have a lot of 8ga laying around. For your eq, is that sharing the same +12v and ground on your radio? If so just upgrading the wire for both will be more than good enough for you.

That should fix it. Im very confident in it fixing it. the power wires for the dashboard suck and are so thin that they will be super sensitive to excess current being drawn. Those power packs arent that big but for the stock wiring harness they are. Id keep the rest of your headunit on the wiring harness but where the wire comes off of your headunit for the power and grounds id just put them to your battery or something close like a distro block, etc.

The radio has a poor wiring system for the power and ground. I would upgrade the power and ground wires for it, you could use a relay if you wished but thats just stupid. Id just upgrade the power and grounds and connect them to the battery. Even stock radio's ive seen in my truck had the dimming with them when the bass hits. Think of it like this... You have the power pack on your headunit and even with just the mids and highs its a lot more power output than the stock OEM radio will draw and having that go through the OEM 18-20ga wire is not going to work well. Its like an amplifier. If you have an amp connected in the back on a battery there may be some voltage drop at the amp but not in the rest of the system. This is exactly what you are facing. Also ive noticed this with my Envoy, the charging system on the envoy's and trailblazers are weird. What ive noticed whether i have any draws on or not, if i turn the knob for my interior lights and stare at them i can see the lights pulsating with the engine running but when i turn it off it stops. I have no change in voltage when i use my DMM or o-scope so idk whats causing that fast flicker but im not really worried about it. edit: i forgot to mention, my headunit (alpine iva-w205) did the same thing with the backlight for my lcd screen on the headunit and i didnt run a power pack off the radio. I was running the headunit with the stock speakers too and everytime the bass would play the backlight on my lcd would flicker with the beat but as soon as i disconnected the speakers from using the amps outputs and connected the speakers to an actual amplifier i never have had that problem ever again.

you dont have to get an adapter for it. What i did with my dd-1 and cc-1 was clip the negative lead around the outside part of the rca and hold the red probe off the tool to the middle (longer) part of the rca. I played the test tones and figured out the clipping and all that. I also just to make sure it worked the same checked my headunit through the amp just like mentioned in the manual with the same results. Some rca's you can just plug straight into the dd-1 and cc-1 however i found that only RF rca's fit in the opening as most other manufacturers have thick outer terminals that wont allow it to go into the rca connector on the tool itself unless i drill out the case on the dd-1 and cc-1 but im still skeptical about doing that and ruining such a great product.

Did you set your subsonic on the amp at all? It sounds just like my SMD used to do when i dropped below the port freq too far. It would play and get a smell for a second or two but would be fairly warm to the touch. I set the subsonic filter a half-assed way with a DMM (yes i know thats not accurate but i didnt have the CC-1 like i do now and wanted to get that set as i kept bottoming the sub out and popping the dustcap off) and it never got hot like that again. Also you are not using any bass boost or anything like that correct? Even with the dd-1 being as accurate as it is bass boost is still very bad to have because if you have 3 songs and one of those has that same freq that your bass boost raises at a high level you will be clipping the sub to all hell. Make sure your bass boost is turned completely off, loudness is turned completely off, and your eq is set to flat and if you have a CC-1 set your subsonic filter. I f you dont have a cc-1 the half ass way of setting it (note: this is by absolutely no means accurate but its better than just winging it) play a test tone (you can make these in audacity for free, just google how to do so) of the freq you want to have your subsonic/infrasonic filter set to (typically its 2Hz below your port tuning. so if you have your box tuned to lets say 45Hz, make a test tone at 43Hz). Disconnect the subwoofer from the amp outputs and plug in a DMM. With the subsonic/infrasonic set all the way off or to the left-most position play the 43Hz test tone. Observe the voltage. Now take 3/4 of that voltage and write that voltage down. The voltage you calculated a minute ago will be the voltage you will want to achieve when you turn up your subsonic/infrasonic filter. Now start to turn up the subsonic/infrasonic filter up until you reach that voltage you calculated. Connect the sub and see how it does. Again that method is very inaccurate but its better than just eyeballing it or anything like that. And i would set your gains at a 0db tone to start out with and see if your subs still get hot. If they do you are clipping them somewhere in your system and need to look over all of your settings. If the subs run cool with the gains set to 0db then you will want to adjust the gains with a -5db tone. Little note: When i set my gains with the dd-1 and adjusted the x-over with the cc-1, i played a 0db tone for finding the volume level of my headunit and setting the gain on my 3sixty.2. For the amps i set those with the -5db track. That way i know i have 0 clipping before the amp and any clipping is a result of my amp not anything else (as long as the songs never exceed 0db but thats rarely if ever going to happen)

I dont have a kinetik battery however i do have several xs batteries in my truck and they have always put out a ton of power and never fell below 12.8v even in the coldest weather i had them in (-10 degrees Fahrenheit) it never had any problem cranking my truck and i even went right in to blast my system right after i started the truck up for a minute. It sounds like the battery itself may have just had a defect in it. AGM should never freeze as there is no actual moving liquid like normal wet cell batteries that come with your car when you buy it. XS power actually cut open a XS D3100, kinetik, and an optima battery in a video on youtube and they all will not spill any liquid as they are pretty much like concrete in there for the acid being suspended.

HTC thunderbolt 4g-lte for me. It has android 2.3.4 on it and is fully rooted which means i can get rid of all the bloatware and crap on it as well as FREE WIRELESS TETHER FTMFW!!! I use over 1.5 gigs of data each day im tethered to my phone (typically saturdays and sundays) and i deleted all the crap software that came with the phone. The biggest thing i can say to do with your phone is to get it rooted, download wireless tether for your phone, and i LOVE the app called blackmart It allows you to get paid apps for free on your android powered device. And for the basics as i know probably half of you dont know what rooting really is, its super easy to do if you can follow the directoins lol. But what it does is give you full access to do anything and everything with your phone. You can install a custom bootloader to make backup images, restore your phone, update the rom, etc. Rooting your phone not only makes it even easier to fix if you were to brick your phone but also lets you do whatever you want to on your phone at any time. If its one thing i cannot live without its that wireless tether app that i have. I was heavy on using it with my previous phone Motorola DroidX but that was only a 3g phone, now that my thunderbolt is 4g i cannot get over the speeds of 17 down and 10 up for surfing the web and doing anything with. Its faster than my home internet. lmfao

i apologize it has taken me this long to get to this topic. It seems my email update function for when ppl post after me was turned off. Anyways.... I noticed that my 3sixty.2 was off a lot (iirc like 20Hz for the high end of my tweeters and 5Hz for my mids). I had it setup so that the tweeters were on highpass at 1.5kHz and the mids were on bandpass from 65Hz through 1.5kHz. I set everything back up with my DD-1 first and my headunit was originally set at a volume of 28 but it found distortion on 27 so i set that there and then i set my 3sixty.2's outputs up and then my amps. Heres how i set my equipment and i know this is not correct before steve, tony or juan chime in but i also verified it the correct way (negative alligator clip of the dd-1/cc-1 to the ground of the battery and red/positive probe off the dd-1/cc-1 to the positive of the rca and speaker outputs). I did however follow the manual precisely as it was directed for setting up my amps as they have a high voltage output unlike my rca outputs. When i setup my headunit with the dd-1: 1.) Made sure my headunit was on defeat (its a feature for most alpine units which disables the fader, eq, and crossover settings, basically it sets everything to flat and just passes the signal off to the amps or in my case my 3sixty.2) 2.) I played the 1.0kHz and 40Hz test tones at a -5db attenuation on my headunit and made note of the volume levels in which it showed distortion for all the outputs. (you dont really have to do this but i did it to be 100% sure im not clipping or getting any distortion on ANY output of my headunit) 3.) When i connected my DD-1 to the headunits rca outputs i first had it hooked up so that the alligator clip of the dd-1 was clipped around the outside ring of the rca (right near where you grab them to install them) and the red/positive test lead of the dd-1 was on the middle probe of the rca. I did this for every single rca output on my headunit and made note of where the volume would show distortion. What i happened to notice is that my headunit would clip at 29 out of 35 with a 40Hz tone playing but it would clip with the volume at 28 out of 35 for a 1kHz tone playing. I decided to set everything up with my headunit set to a volume of 27 as i know the radio wont clip at all. notes: for setting up some headunits such as mine you need to have the subwoofer up to 15 out of 15 to achieve the true 4v rms voltage and have no distortion or clipping so you may need to do this too depending on your headunit. Also note do NOT turn up any of your bass, mid or treble settings and keep loudness turned off and make sure the balance and fade is set to 0. You will keep your headunit like this throughout the entire process of tuning and setting your gains. when i setup my 3sixty.2 with the dd-1: 1.) I first already had my 3sixty.2 setup to auto-eq and flatten out my eq curve for me. If you didnt do this do it now, it takes like 5-10 minutes for it to do this. Just go to file>new install>oem source and follow the steps listed on the screen. 2.) Disconnect the rca outputs from the 3sixty.2 and connect the dd-1 up so that the alligator clip goes on the outer most connection for the rca outputs and that the red/positive probe of the dd-1 goes into the inside of the rca jack. 3.) Make sure your speaker outputs have no crossover settings turned on while you do this setup. For the subwoofer you cannot turn off the lowpass so i set it up to 80Hz and didnt worry about running a 1kHz tone on the subwoofer output. 4.) I kept my headunit at volume 27 and played a 40Hz tone at -5db and a 1kHz tone at -5db for each output. I noticed that the clip light on the 3sixty.2 would flicker but my dd-1 didnt have the distortion light lit up so if this happens to you dont worry its fine. when i setup my amps with the dd-1 (please note, i do not currently have my SMD or dc 5.0k installed so i only setup my 175.4 but its the same thing for any amp really): 1.) Make sure your 3sixty.2 is still set to fullpass and that your subwoofer lowpass is up as high as it can go and that your amps are set to fullpass, if fullpass cannot be achieved set the infrasonic/subsonic/high pass filter to the lowest setting and the lowpass filter to the highest setting. 2.) Connect the black alligator clip of the dd-1 to your battery's negative/ground connection and then connect the red/positive probe of your dd-1 to the left channel positive of one output. (please make note, in the manual some amps including my 175.4 will have it so that you cannot just put the positive probe of the dd-1 to all the positive speaker outputs, i had to connect my dd-1 so that it was the left positive and right negative per channel. Just connect the positive probe to the positive output channel first and if you do not see any reading on your dd-1 then connect it to the negative of the speakers output.) 3.) I turned the gain up until the distortion light came on for my left channel positive and then i connected the probe to the right channel negative output and made sure it wasnt clipping there at all. (please note, i found that my 175.4 would go into protect even with me pausing the test tones while i was setting the gains when i swapped the probe around on the amps outputs so if you happen to notice that your not getting any signal on the dd-1 look at the protect light, if its illuminated just power off the system and back on and it should return to normal.) Now the fun part, setting your 3sixty.2 and amps with the cc-1. Setup your 3sixty.2 with the cc-1: 1.) Disconnect the rca outputs off the 3sixty.2 and connect the black alligator clip around the outermost ring of the rca and insert the red lead into the rca output. 2.) Make a decision on what you want to set your crossovers to for your entire system, if you are not sure refer to the included manual as a reference point. You will want to make note of what track and tones you set each output at as you will be playing these tones again when you setup your amps crossover too. 3.) Once you decide what you want to set the crossover to play that track of the crossover frequency you want to set at on your headunit at the highest volume before clipping. 4.) You can adjust the crossover slope at your discretion between 12 and 24db, i normally recommend 24 for tweeters and 12 for mids and subs but i am running my mids and highs both at 24db and i love how they sound now, its so much punchier. DO THIS BEFORE YOU PROCEED TO SETTING YOUR CROSSOVER FREQ AS IT WILL THROW IT OFF GREATLY IF YOU DO THIS AFTER SETTING THE X-OVER SETTINGS!! 5.) For each output (left and right unless you have the 3sixty.2 setup to share the crossover settings for both sides) you will turn the crossover up or down as indicated by the led's on your cc-1. (now originally i was using a 60Hz highpass for my mids but the cc-1 didnt have a 60Hz track so i set it to 63 instead, not a big difference though, i dont think its bad) Setup your amps with the cc-1: 1.) Connect the rca outputs of the 3sixty.2 to the amps and disconnect the speaker outputs of your amps. Keep the 3sixty.2's crossover settings to the designated settings you made in the previous setup. 2.) Connect the black alligator clip of the dd-1 to your battery's negative/ground connection and then connect the red/positive probe of your cc-1 to the left channel positive of one output. (please make note, in the manual some amps including my 175.4 will have it so that you cannot just put the positive probe of the dd-1 to all the positive speaker outputs, i had to connect my cc-1 so that it was the left positive and right negative per channel. Just connect the positive probe to the positive output channel first and if you do not see any reading on your cc-1 then connect it to the negative of the speakers output.) 3.) Now you need to decide whether you are going to use lowpass, highpass, bandpass, or subsonic on your amps. Once you make that decision you will set the switch on the amp accordingly and make sure that for lowpass the knob is turned to the right mode position and for your highpass/subsonic set it at the left most position. 4.) Play the test tones you used while setting the crossover on your 3sixty.2 (now please note you may already be calibrated but keep doing this anyway) 5.) If you are setting the lowpass on your amp and it is already calibrated turn up the lowpass until you notice that the arrow pointing downward on the cc-1 is lighting up, when this happens turn the lowpass down a bit until it is back to being calibrated. If you are setting the highpass/subsonic of your amplifier start turning it down until the up arrow illuminates on your cc-1, when this occurs turn the knob down a bit to get it calibrated. Thats what i did for my entire system step by step and it sounds amazing and is so much clearer and louder. edit: For anyone thinking that just setting the 3sixty.2 will be good dont think like this at all. First of all i had my infrasonic filter screw up a few times on my SMD and cause it to unload out of nowhere for a couple seconds and then it turned back on. I set the amps as a backup so if the filters on my 3sixty decide to take a shit on me again out of nowhere it wont kill my speakers also it wont hurt to have them both on and running together so why the hell not.

brake cleaner, brake fluid, and power steering fluid will eat your paint right off. Id see if you can try to heat it up and scrape it off carefully. Sometimes the glue OEM places use will come off easier with heat applied to them.