cc_audio

If you are pulled over, and your excuse for not wearing a seatbelt is because its holding your battery down, you might be a red neck...

I would agree, I'm a fan of bubble domes with artwork of some kind atleast. Most of my time spent waiting on my sub has been on a dustcap. Subs are still sexy.

I've got some vids of both woofers running free air, I'm going to take some vids of the 8" T-Line in action here real soon, hopefully I'll of gotten off my lazy ass and finished it before then. Watched Paranormal Activity with it, that movie gets stupid low. Was pretty good movie too. Also district 9 has some pretty crazy bass to it. I'll also get the 15" back here sometime this week, get some better pics and take a vid of Ken's woofer in action. Its loud but certainly needs more power yet, I'll try and talk him into upgrading amps. I might have accidently made more room in the amp rack for a bigger amp

I always do amp racks for customers, mostly it helps me hide the wires and keeps it self contained, and the little noobs can wander back there and play with the gains. I've had several people come back with clipped to death subs blaming me. One quick look at the amp and I know what they did. Amp racks like this prevent that and look good. Don't mind the ugly feet, they've already been replaced with hidden ones, it was temporary to get it to the owner by christmas. Very dusty, but clean. He was bouncing all over the place when he came to get it. Another successful install, this time using one of Ken's woofers, I think he still has another of this very sub available for sale yet.

Woofer was much bigger than expected. The owner originally went to the local dealer and got a quote. I won't mention their name *cough* Great Sounds *cough* and he was quoted two 10" JL W1, a JL 300W Slash 2ch, a pioneer head Unit (same one I got him), Q-Logic enclosure, wire and install cost that totalled $1360.00 and they couldn't do it till the end of January. This was in November when he got the quote and was then referred to me. His bill was $780 when done with me and I must say the equipment was much better, as usuall. I started, built, and installed the whole build in 24hours, to make it by Christmas. Prolly the fasted I've ever cranked out a customer build. I always bench test amps before installing. I cranked the heat in the garage and set up a 30min timer between clamping so that no time was wasted waiting for glue to dry, I rarely use screws or nails. Remember, only had a day to do this.

A little background info, I sent my Ground Zero Plutonium motor to Ken to rebuild into a monster. I was very impressed with his attention to detail and how much he really hooked me up with. I decided to start going to him for customer builds as well. I do a lot of private installs, giving the ol' run around on the shitty ass shops around here and making a nice dime for myself to match. The 15" rebuilt MA audio SHO was my first test sub to see how well it was built and whether or not I could trust my rep installing them in others car's. So far they've passed my expectations and I would really like to see Ken with more business. Forevrbumpn's Member page If your serious about buying a top quality woofer without the big name cost, talk to Ken. Send him a PM. Anyone can post in this thread their build if they're using Kens woofers. I don't normally post up customer builds (usually I'm in too much of a hurry to get them out the door that I don't take pics) but since this build uses Ken aka Forevrbumpn's sub i guess I'll post it up along with my home T-Line that also uses a Ken made sub. The T-line was originally for the gf, but due to my wandering eye, she is now my ex. Soo.. this is my new home audio sub and I must say it really works great. The first two Forevrbumpn woofers that I've gotten to play with. 34hertz T-Line A problem I always have with my own personal builds is deciding how to finish them. Now to start on the customers build, here's the woofer, way bigger than expected.

Well, I must say I'm a little disappointed in you too. But atleast when its all said and done with you WILL be able to sell the JL rather easily as there are a lot of niave people out there looking for JL. And if not you can always throw it in a T-line and beat up your living room with it. I'm just glad I've never been the victom of a JL dealer. Can't wait to see the new massive system, hope its sooner rather than later.

I can't really tell, what did you cover it with? Looks pretty slick. EDIT: I wanna know what you used along the top/front/back, the carpet on the sides is obvious.

I'm personally not a fan of yellowtops, I think they are overpriced for what they are. But some people love em so whatever. My buddies just blew up a month ago and he didn't have it very long. It blew out along the top of it. If you have stock wiring still I would only run about 600W out of your sub amp at most until the upgrades, voltage can still fall with a run of 1/0 if the big three isn't done. Voltage drop = bad. But that planned electrical should be sufficient enough, what amp are you running btw?

Looking at 2500Wrms out of a monoblock so that would be around 3500W draw at 70% efficiency, worst case voltage is 13.8 so 3500/13.8= around 250amps current minimum. So, you definately need atleast one run of GOOD 1/0 from the front to the back and you WILL need to do the big three. Your car uses between 40-60% of your stock alt depending on size. Lets say your car only uses 50% of it so thats only 50amps your alt can supply to your batts. That leaves you with 200 amps you need to supply to you amp. You will have to provide additional batteries who's aH adds up to 200 amps, such as two Kinetik HC2000s. That is the minimum electrical you would need and that is not ideal for daily use since you will be depending on batts more than alt. I would suggest you upgrade your alt to a 200+amp alt and then go from there with say an HC1400 underhood and an HC2000 in back, or whatever brand you desire. Thats a nice daily electrical for 2500w rms. And one run of high qualtiy 1/0 would be sufficient, pos AND neg run would be helpful too.

Put it all in and call the LVL 3s your subs, and if they ask any questions just say the others are my mids and highs. Whats wrong with the BTL chillen there?

I prefer to use XS, but I find myself finding really good deals on Kinetik more often. I have all Kinetik in my car cause they were much cheaper than buying XS. Can't go wrong with either though. EDIT: I probably wouldn't do the swap for XS. Just add to what you got or be content, cause you have a nice batt setup. I would only get the i-bar if you have a need. What are you trying to acheive?

Buy them or I will! I used to have a 12" titanium for the GF, I even have vids on youtube. Wish I never sold it, they are amazing woofers. I'm a TC lover for life.

I use the tootsie roll approach. Wrap around one direction, tape it and then twist the ends and tape them. Easy, ugly, but I'm the only one in the family who does it so its unique.

Well, in this snow, I love having all that weight in the back, my car is like a tank. Unfortunately my car sits 4 inches lower in the back and bottoms out hard occasionally. My gas while I was system free was 32mpg, its down to 25. That kinda sucks, but otherwise its never bothered me enough to drop $2-300 on repalcement springs/shocks. I've got four wheel disks on the little celica, so braking isn't a problem despite the amount of extra weight.

Hmm... mine lasted two years. A year of that was with 3500W daily, coil was perfect. I'm just saying the sound of ANY kicker isn't very impressive. And I've seen and played with a lot them. No such thing as a kicker sub lasting for good unless underpowered and unclipped. I would never bet my life on a CVX, kicker= shitty build houses and unpredictable reliability. I like kicker, but the X would walk all over the CVX. But I'm also in love with 18"s.

In a heart beat. Sorry, but a CVX isn't going to sound any better than a Solo X unless the box is a POS. Once you hear one kicker, you've heard them all. Atleast the Solo X will be louder and repairable if it blows. CVX was the most useless sub I've ever installed. Sounded like an L7 but with less cone area. I loved my X though. Cone area is really close, but I'd still do the X.

I used to run two 10"s SEs in my dad's truck. They kicked ass! I sold them to my buddy chris a couple months ago and they are eating up all of his HCCA D5000 with some clipping They are tough as nails and should they blow, recone is atleast possible. Lotta potential in their motors too in case you wanna recone with stiffer soft parts for more powa. Piss on JL, get the SEs.

Whoo more pictures! Fwap fwap fwap

A motor deeper than the abyss and now you've got your extra tall surrounds. The last thing I see are failing spiders in your future, especially if you get another stetsom to work em with. These subs are absolute monsters. You have 5 spiders now, correct? I love this thread... Rusty's newest technology is... a piece of aluminum. I wanna see a DC LVL 5 8" now. Get to work!!!

I used to ride BMX back in the day... Which wasn't too long ago now that I think about it. lol I had a Mosh DJ3 and a GT Fueler that were my go-to bikes. I used to trail ride, until I moved away from my amazing trails. Sold the Fueler and Mosh but I have a GT Performer hangin in the garage still. Hasn't been ridden in prolly five years, but I loved the frame styling and mags on it. The bike is useless on trails, but I loved the look of it, and it wasn't worth anything to sell. I had a bad habit of over rotating 360s a lot, but I could do turndowns, barspins, no-handers; easy shit like that all day long.

Not sure on your location, but the fastest I ever got laid after first dates were when I showed them what I like to do. Twice this summer I used the ole boat and wakeboard. Once they get up on the wakeboard, your golden. Also took a girl snowboarding/skiing. That went really well too. I dunno try somethin like that. I don't go to movies, they are rediculously expensive and I'm a cheap ass.

I would honestly have made it in Illistrator first. Its a really simple graphic and taking it to print is REALLY easy when you have a vector file of it. Can blow it up to the size of your house with no pixelation. If you did it in photoshop then you have to make sure color is in CMYK and that the res is VERY high. I like to use 300dpi as a minimum, but usually if I HAVE to do an image in photoshop for print I usually do 600dpi, you can always bring it down later. Those black lines are definately illistrator canvas lines. Can you open it up in photoshop and see if they dissappear for you. I would love to help you out and trace it for you really quick in illistrator so you have a vector file you can manipulate when you need to but I'll be leaving the country tomorrow so no time. Is this your logo?

Is that CS3? And if it is, usually those lines are just visual glitches from having a large file, or a small ram. To be sure, print it once and if there's no lines then the lines won't save. Was your object done with the pen tool? Because judging by the severe pixelation that does not look vector based. Your text looks clean like its vector based but that star looks like you placed a really small image on there. EDIT: Actually, those lines look like canvas outlines. Hide your layers once.

I sent you a PM yesterday.