skittlesRgood

what amp and HU do you have?

this what your looking for?

NO now stop asking lol. you got the answer several times. you wanted it explained and i tried to do that. yet you still ask the same question. if you dont believe us then just do it and stop asking us for help.

1st off, ground the back battery with 4awg to match the +. that is really bad drop. might be clipping the shit out of the amp... not sure man.

imagine this... you have a scale with an empty jug of either side. you have a 3" tube running across the jugs but one of the jugs has a 1" tube coming from the 3" tube and the other just has the 3" tube. now the tube is your wire, the scale is your box and the jugs are your subs. following me so far? now you run water (power) through the tubes. the one with the 3" inlet would fill faster correct? then the scale would tip all the way over. so in the box, the subs wouldnt be balanced and they will actually fight each other. as for the "almost the same just a different motor and magnet and coil" those are the important things. the cone doesnt mean dick. and the magnet is the motor.

im going to try to break this down so you understand the way i understand it. i REALLY dont believe im wrong but there is always that chance. BUT, i just set the gains on my 4 channel by ear.

he said channel 3 has 2 speakers (4ohms) and channel 4 has 2 speakers (4ohms). you measure voltage of just one channel. unless im very mistaken you want to do option C. that will set each channel to 125w.

so these are what, 1.5" longer than the saz-1500? hmm... those could fit in my amp racks... sounds like a 149.9 bass race off two 12"s is in my future. jacob, you still taking trade ins?

yes, thats correct. fuse the + run at both ends because if the front fuse pops the back battery will still feed the short. you can run a - run the same way as the + or ground it in the back. find a thick piece of metal and sand off the paint. ground your amps to the back battery and ground your battery either way you want.

they wont install one... but void a warranty if you dont get one... i dont get it. is the warranty through them? if you blow an amp, cant you just take it out and tell them whatever they want to hear about your car?

the only thing an isolator does is stop your front battery from draining if you play your system with the car off. it doesnt do anything to protect the system and not having one wont damage anything. just keep the car on when you bump. i think its just a way for them to get more money. i dont see any reason why it would void a warranty. sounds like another stupid shop to me.

haha, glad you liked it

saw this on scrubs last night and started cracking up. its just a joke, no insult intended

well thats kind of like saying "if amps can clip, why do they hey a gain?" you can do anything wrong and get bad results but then there is a right way to do things that wont give you problems.

lol no. cancellation is when 2 sound waves "fight" each other.

funky pups were banned from dbdrag because they are so cheap it would be too easy for some one to put like 50 of them in a van. then everyone would ask why they were banned and the jokes started rolling. at least, thats the story i heard from old school guys.

x2. interested in the sander when you get a price.

x2. i love that site.

go to auto zone and get the automotive resin. it takes an hour or 2 to dry instead of 5-10 min. so it'll never harden up in the cup. then just turn on a portable heater and itll dry up quick. i dont measure anything out. i pour it into a cut up milk jug and just say "i think 50 drops will be good" im taking a break for putting resin in my box too. waiting for it to dry before i put the ports back in.

any reason not to get the biggest one?

i saw a guy that used PVC under the car to protect the wire. looked good too.

i had the pioneer shallows and i liked those. sounded great to me back then.

x3

two 15"s

i like it but i have 2 things to pick about. why did you put a bended bolt in your power leads? i would bet money that you are losing current there. inside the terminal you only have the threads of the bolt making contact instead of all that copper. bring your speaker leads to the amp so instead of connecting them inside the box, bring another pair to the other speaker terminals on the amp. the terminals are wired in parallel so its the same thing. i noticed a good power difference when i did that with mine.