skittlesRgood

i grounded mine to the back battery with 12awg. didnt help.

once you go sundown, you'll never turn it down. it was just amps last time. i didnt even know this stoped. it was great when i traded my amp in. made it so much faster and easier than trying to sell it on my own.

i used to have cheap $7 rcas. didnt have any problem with them. "upgraded" to knu rcas and i got more noise. so it could still be your rcas.

uhhh... i think your allthread is crooked. lol good equipment. that box is going to need to be very strong. i hope the ports dont need to be longer than the box since its already made lol.

this better fail so you can keep making us alternators... lol jk. good luck with it man.

mine arnt ATM but i did try it. just turn it up and youll never hear it lol. maybe next week we can just hook up jumper cables to our cars. ill leave mine off, you turn your car on, tada, you have 2 more batts lol.

my engine noise got bad with my new HU... i just have to live with it. im sure one of the nor cal guys could let you hook up an extra battery just to see if itll help. might as well test it b4 you spend the money. wait... arnt you selling this anyway? who cares about dimming lol

grounding the back battery to the front one should help a little more. i dont know though man. 1500w, 2 batts, 300amp alt... shouldnt be dimming. the rule i read was that if the lights just dim when the bass hits but then they recover almost instantly then you need more battery power. the dim is caused by the reaction time it takes your alt to kick on.... if the lights stay dim on a long note (tones) then your alt isnt putting out enough power. i had problems with dimming for a while. once i got a G31 in back it's almost gone. only a very slight dim on full tilt some times.

that DD scared me when you turned the camera the 1st time. i literaly said "woa"

they could take the bass boost out for all im concerned.

i know people that have done it. you really have to know what your doing though. if you can afford it, go with the level 5.

waiting for the add...

my friends are in LA to see it.

lol, when i finaly get a demo im going to give you the most serious face i can.

oohh... ouch.

they are made over seas now. they arnt the best quality anymore. the SX i got needed the tinsel lead terminals to be resoldered then it was perfect.

i honestly dont trust these sites. ive had one order come in from onlinecarstereo.com. but ive had one from both sites that never showed up. i had to call the bank and have them give me my money back. both sites never responded to any emails. this was a few years ago, maybe they are better now but woofersetc.com and darvex.com are the only sites i trust. darvex.com does sell some crapy products though, just dont buy xscorpion stuff.

hahaha, dude, the math and science says that a sealed enclosure should get the loudest. this is obviously not the case but if you know physics, you know what im talking about.

the point of a subsonic filter is to STOP the subs from playing below the box tuning. of corse the subs can play lows no matter what you tune the box to. but you can overthrow the subs. im really not an expert but this is my understanding of tuning. i just dont want to see you break a woofer. the flex looks very nice and i love the glass work. fix that roof b4 it looks like mr.p's!!

if you try to fill a tank(your battery) with a garden hose (your alt) while draining it with a 6" pipe (your system)eventualy the tank will run out of water. now if you get a bigger tank it will take longer to empty it but if you keep the smaller tank and upgrade to a 6" pipe to fill the tank then you dont have to worry about it going empty. thats an easy explanation, please guys dont take that too litteraly, i already know what you are going to say. but this is a simple way to think about alt vs. battery. i always recomend people new to car audio look at BCAE1.com. it explains these types of questions in great detail but wont get so technical that you cant understand it.

you need to be able to blast them with your system for them to listen to you.

i would have to say the alt. keep an eye on your voltage till you get both in. i have a 250amp alt, deka G31 and a yellowtop. running 3500w (2 saz-1500's and alpine pdx150.4) so im almost exactly what your looking at having. my voltage will touch 12v at idle and full tilt, at 2000rpm it wont drop under 13v. so, with less electrical you may see 10-11v (guessing) but getting to 10v is bad so just keep an eye on it and make sure you keep in 11v+ hope that helps.

time to run to auto zone and test an alt.

so every connection is tight, including the voltage meter, and you have 12v while the car is running with the system off? id say its the alt then. but thats more of a guess. i dont know what else could cause it. lol drew is so helpful.

with the car on?