skittlesRgood

ive always soldered and i never have problems with CCA wire taking solder. sounds like the main problem is heat like the others have said. when the solder stops melting, you need more heat. even though you have a hard time getting the wire in the terminal, there is still lots of extra space in there. put the terminal in a vice to smash it down. it doesnt need to be as tight as a crimp, your just taking up space. then solder. often times, i dont see solder come out of the bottom of the terminal. more likely it flows out of the seam on the side or it just overflows. it takes a good deal of solder to make this happen. ive never had to use extra flux. the brown crap on top of the terminal is your flux pooling up. you can always take a metal brush and clean that off. keep practicing. my first terminals didnt look good either. edit: is it silver solder? that shit needs tons of heat to get it to flow. I wont even use that stuff.

um... wire, fuses, fuse holders, extra battery, RCAs, i dont know what you want to tell you what you need.

oh, thats actually a crack? i thought it was just dirt.

oh ooh ooh, tell us, tell us, wise one. lol well, it is usually louder firing back. most suvs like sub up port back or everything back.

lol whoops. shit happens. scrape it all out and put a fresh bead in.

silicone failure?

I wish my bench looked that good, every time i get it looking like that it magically morphs back into a pile of shit.

if you look at two difference sized circles on top of one another, you will see that they touch at the bottom and quickly separate. so to get an acceptable contact area you need to be extremely accurate on the size of the insert. give it a shot, little projects are always fun.

get stainless steel. thats all i know lol.

is that tip square? the problem i always have with people putting a solid metal bar into an amp is that it will always have much much less contact area compared to just wire. now if yours is square, then its even more of a problem. it would be better to run 4awg if that's the case.

Likely to increase their voltage capability. For example, the old RF 100 Farad capacitor was really (6) 600 Farad caps wired in series. Why? Simple - each cap was rated at 2.6 (or 2.8 volts - can't remember . . . ) when a cap first charges there is a direct short, so each cap needs that 17v capability, since he charges at 16v+. but i guess thats the point of slow charging them, then the caps are never really discharged again, so ya. i could see that. but in series the capacity is cut in half.

they are probably carbon caps but they are wired in series so thats pretty strange... i'd like to hear the reason for that.

cool story, bro.

again. did it charge back up or stay at 15v?

only do it once or does it do the same thing every time, even after giving it time to charge?

ah, i see its really a 2ohm amp they just put a 1ohm rating on there just because. so the part about doubling resistance is not valid here.

im not talking shit about your amp and i understand people are sensitive when they hear their amp isnt doing what they think. im just telling you the truth and making sure you are set up for the extra power so you dont break something else. yes, im actually helping. now its not called "watts law" its ohm's law. resistance definitely plays a part and so does efficiency. something your math didnt account for. 14.4 x 60 = 864 864 x .75 (efficiency) = 648 (hey look at that, i was pretty darn close) then account for your voltage drop and im probably rite on the money. lastly, doubling the resistance should cut the power in half. this does seem to varry based on the amp's design but lets say, best case,(and your amp wont be this good) it drops %30 leaving you with 453w at perfect voltage. then we factor in impedance rise and holy fuck lol. you dont even want to know what that brings you to. now there is good news here. if you were happy with the output of this kenwood amp, you dont need to look for a 1000w replacement. just get an amp that truely puts out 500w at 2ohm and you will be set. that will really help you save money and get a better quality amp.

unless i came across the wrong amp, that kenwood has 60 amps of fusing. so thats about 600w, 2ohm puts you well under that since its a 1ohm amp. so in reality, it cant physically do 700w at 2ohm or anywhere near that.

best i can tell, that amp could only do 300-400w at 2ohm, at best. so if you really want to get 1000w you are more than tripling your power. can the subs handle that? can you electrical?

you paid all that money on the ms-8 and your running 3.5mm inputs? thats pretty sad. the audio quality isnt very good that way. it would be much better if you used a memory stick or something and plug that into your HU. the output on your phone is going to be very low, like .2v. i guess if you really wanted to find a max volume for the thing, plug the DD1 into the speaker outputs on the MS8. then you can play with the volume on the phone and on the MS8 to find where each one clips. for the amps... thats a little tricky. the ms8 adjusts rca voltage to give you the best sound. so if you tune the ms8, then go messing with the gains, it'll throw off the tuning the ms8 did. well... maybe turn onn all the processing on the ms8 then set the gains on the amp. then retune the ms8. the most it will do is turn the voltage down, not up, so you would be safe. that answer your question?

if those are group 31 sized batts and a 300 amp alt, ya it should work. wont have perfect voltage though.

just use 300amp fuses. you will be fine with that, and safe.

So should I just run the 480/500 amp fuses on each block? that sounds like the opposite of what i said. you want to run a 500amp fuse to one 1/0 wire?

fuse each wire alone. dont combine fuses and wire. i have always just done an in-line fuse on each wire.

dude, fuck off. your 1st post here and your bitching like this? you're too poor for DBdrag "WWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH" bass race is stupid "WWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH" meca is boring "WWWWWWAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH" go troll somewhere else cry baby.