skittlesRgood

umm... well, some subs do sound better than others. just like component speakers dont all sound the same. like an IDQ will sound a lot better than my XLs. and i know that because i have owned IDQs lol.

now thats a deal lol. shit... im about to own a sony amp. 94539. how much will shipping be? take some pics for me, with user name.

under $75. so something old, that still works is probably my market.

cool, but i dont think you will sell that cheaply lol.

it's a little low powered but if the price is rite, sure.

im sure some one has something cluttering up a work bench.

just looking for a cheapy amp. 200w at 2ohm or a 2 channel thats 100w at 4ohm x2. give or take. a 4 channel would be cool too. maybe even preferred. it's just for a little side project to run two 10"s. let me know what you have lying around.

well you dont need a relay on the avics. just move one wire and ground it. is that what you mean by a work around?

not all pioneers. the avics can just be connected to the ground. the 4200 does something special that you have to work around.

never heard it but i like the specs. i think it would do well.

ive had my plywood baffles in my doors for 2 years now. doesnt look like water has even touched them. I dont think its much to worry about. 80hz is a good crossover point for mid-bass and sub stage. by the specs, there is no way those selenuims will be good midbass drivers. finding mid-bass with a shallow depth is a pain is the ass. most of them are about 3" deep.

different wiring in the knobs. maybe the way one knob is wired will create a short in a different amp. you just dont know.

that would be a thermal failure. shit happens when you push a sub to its limit but its what you have to do to get loud.

ah damn, i just saw this and was about to take it lol.

well a few posts above i quoted something a guy from SSA told me with putting them right into the panels like that, and yeah i would put medf behind it for the mid to mount to but he is basically saying make a small enclosure using my door panel and the inside panel, which IMO sounds like a good idea but before i go and do that im gonna try a few more things.. once this weather gets better of course yeah, what i can easily do is flip the mdf ring over and it'll stick out 3/4 instead of 1/2 (due to the flush mount) so i can try that and shit but will the front of the speaker hit the panel when you do that? stick a small allen wrench in the speaker grill in the door and see how deep it goes until you hit metal, or wood.

if you mount these in the plastic panel, put a ring behind the plastic for the speaker to screw into. i would bolt the panel to the metal so the plastic panel doesnt flex as much. if that plastic flexes, it'll sound like shit. where did you look up mounting depth? ive always seen the CTX was 3" deep. pm me if you want to talk about trading.

http://www.rainbowcaraudio.com/sac465-25kick.html woofersetc sells them.

hmm... i might trade you my rainbow mids for the CTX mids. they are about 2.5" deep. nothing wrong with then, just want to try the CTX as a midbass driver. my rainbows are a higher priced set so its a good trade.

well you could tune with a -3 to -6db tone and that will work well for music but if you burp with the drag cd you use a 0db tone so you may be asking for trouble or it could be the perfect amount of clipping to gain a couple tenths without damaging the subs. all depends on your skill level.

I dont know if u understand some subwoofers. Alot of The stats or numbers that compamies put on the subs arent accurate, just for looks, especially the lower end subwoofers. But dc subs are sick im sure you know but they can handle serious power ...what are you going on about man? i was just looking for the vas of the driver..... who mentioned anything lower end? i mean i know xplods cant handle 1600 watts, but how is that relevant to this topic? the specs i was refering to are things such as the actual value of the coils, in Le, the Re of the coil, the qts, qes, qms, vas, and sd of the driver......... i think he was trying to sound smart. lol.

lol i did close to the same thing. hooked up a small battery, charger, amp and my stock speakers. even made enclosures for them lol. be careful though. now i want to hook it up to my TV and get better speakers. then i have a couple old subs but i need an amp. then of course i need surround sound so i want more speakers. "ah fuck, this was supposed to be a free project because i was bored!"

i thought i told you, go for 2 cubes. play with the port but 2 cubes will get them moving pretty good. sorry, i know i didnt give a lot of good info. funny that budget says not to over power. after imp rise you could be down to 1000-1500w. thats not over powering them at all. plus tons of people run 3k to each XL and really dont have any problems with it. only way i fuck up my XLs is because i played a song i didnt know, hammered a lot note and ripped the spiders. the coil looked brand new. and those were about 1 year old.

i understood. just didnt care.

lol it doesnt matter where you get the tone from. use the dbdrag cd since you have it already.

ya... by what? .1hz? definitely worth mentioning...