skittlesRgood

you moved the front battery to the back or did you add a new battery? what kind of battery is it? is it a non sealed lead acid? your going to buy a prefab box for 2000w??

ok this sounds all kinds of dumb to me... it says 2200w max so you want to run 2000w+. max on these brands usually means thats how much they can take until they fail. some people can run a lot more power than rms to a sub but these people KNOW what they are doing and how to build a box to make the sub handle it. you said you have a dual box, prefab? not going to take 2k. how did you test you boss amp? you hooked up another amp and it sounded the same so it must do X power? no TL so see if it was any louder? no clamp meter? not even a dmm? doesnt sound like you tested shit. you can "hear" the amp not giving as much power... maybe what you are hearing is voltage drop? ever test that? maybe your already dropping to 10v, "so lets throw a bigger amp in!" to get 2000+ watts you NEED electrical upgrades, what have you done?

ya but you use slot ports in a trunk car. they seem to love large ports and i dont blame you for liking that. but here we have a hatchback and aero ports. four 6" ports would need to be 38" long to be tuned to 35hz. bending aero's is damn hard. pvc fittings wont fit unless he makes his own flared ports. but other than that the ports would take up so much airspace the box would be to the roof lol. also, aero's dont work the same as slot ports and dont need as much port area. OP, i like the newest design. get the ports as far away from the box walls as you can.

but can he fit two 6" ports?

three 6" ports will give 14sq in per cube so four will be way too much. if you can fit two 4" ports in the middle where you wanted the 6" then 1 in each corner like you have it, that would be good. assuming you stick with 6cubes itll give you 8sq in.

without doing the math, i think you need 4" ports if you do this. with flared ports you want around 9sq in of port area per cu ft (give or take)

x2. three cubes at most. so at least add another 6" aero.

they work great if you sell them for a real battery.

i dont have pics but any team bassick member and mr.p can vouch for me. meca: "jason kister" 4/3/10 santa rosa, ca 5/1/10 hayward, ca (did not compete but the subs were on display and open for demos) dbdrag: "team bassick - skittles" 5/2/10 salinas, ca results have not been posted yet.

how are you going to wire to .5? dont you have 2ohm coils? or do you already plan to recone? the saz1500 will be fine on .5ohm with good electrical. lots of people do it. but the better question is will that level 3 like 1700w?

I CHALLENGE YOU! i want to see a video of an M&M vs. skittle duel.

yep, fun day, good turn out.

just call them. matt is always happy to help. dc power always picks up the phone too.

ill be at both!

your camping... turn the phone off and camp. when we go camping we hike miles away from the car and forget about all that shit. plug in a volt meter. when it gets down to 12.4v turn the car on for a few min. if it gets to 12.4v a lot faster than last time, charge longer.

x2 whenever you change something and it doesnt seem to be working, always look at what you did 1st. dont just assume the product is broken. 90% of the time, you fucked up lol. and i say that entirely based on my own experience.

x3

this is gay for 1 reason... no king of cali. i should have tagged along to this one. glad to see Gary is ok.

if anyone wants to sell a pair of 1500's to get this amp i may be interested. feel free to pm me.

no, no, no... he built the box to be the loudest he knew how to build. i would put a lot of money that those subs could get louder in another box lol. see if he will take a bet but saying a sub amp cant do 45hz is pretty dumb. its just about in the middle of the range you want your subs to play.

8awg as speaker wire! get an extra battery, group 34 size should be fine. face the subs and port to the back (away from you)

so he can keep spending money on speakers that will keep dieing. good plan. how often do you have people in the back seat? for me, its not often enough to sacrifice my sound stage for. at the moment i only have my front door speaks working and the people in the back hear them just fine. one guy said he didnt even know the speakers next to him were not on. but even if it was a problem in the back seat, 90% of the time, i am the only one in my car so i built it for what sounds best to me. not the empty seats lol.

forget speakers in the rear deck. the ones you have now are probably going out because the air pressure from the subs is pushing on the back of the cone. its an easy way for speaks to die. scrap the hifonics. lets say you were going to spend $160 for 2 sets of comps. now instead put that money into a good set for the front doors. i would highly recommend these. they are a little more expensive but they sound great. if you stick with the cheap companies you will get cheap results.

that makeitloud meter wont count as proof. i got one a long time ago thinking it would be a fun tool but its crap. the biggest problem is that your probably using a crap DMM that isnt accurate. there will be a difference in reading if you use a true rms meter or not. then you get into the other factors and the list goes on and on. people on here use ONE method as proof and that is with a TL, above the dash, car sealed up.

security held me over for a while too. its stupid easy work. in fact i worked at home then played games at work. and it was easy to get a job.