skittlesRgood

if you can afford to power logans 15"s you should get those things. they are bad ass woofers and mechanicaly brand new. he's also a very trustworthy guy. forget kicker. your on a car audio forum now. you are above kicker. lol there is a lot better out there man.

have the new one be the master so it can beat the smoke out of the slave. seriously, ask jacob about this. sounds like puff the magic dragon might be riding in your car.

you can only measure DC resistance with a DMM. impedance is the measure of AC "resistance". turning the amp on with the DMM connected and set to ohm is very bad for the meter. to measure impedance you need the DMM set to ac voltage and an ac clamp meter to measure amperage. voltage / amperage = impedance.

sundown posted that on here a while ago.

go download real porn. im asuming thats what the link is for.

port area and length of the port are 2 very different things. more port area does mean louder a lot of the time but it all depends on the sub and box and how "big" your talking.

well at least he's nice enough to stop the dog... after getting out the camera and filming for 2 min. lol

whats the big deal? 147.4 for 4 12" subs off a 4000.1 in a gutted out little car isnt that good of a score. especialy since he was probably on peak hold so it only touched that number. average is probably 146.x.

lol. people are very bored these days.

dont worry about it. more rise means less power = less chance of blowing your sub.

impedance is the measure of AC resistance. when a speaker plays, pressure builds around the cone that seems to create more resistance. so now instead of 2ohms your getting 4 (just an example). impedance will always change when the speaker is playing and can vary greatly depending on the tone being played.

quit posting every 2 min!!! we've all seen this thread. it wont disapear if you dont post. leave it alone for a day, yes a whole day, and see if anyone posts before you post anything in here. just stop post dumping. its against the forum rules.

lose the 6x9"s, do NOT put them in the same box with the subs. ive seen some one do this box and i think it was still .75" maybe .5" but it was only for 1 woofer. i would do 1" all around for the 4 12"s maybe even thicker, all depends on the power your running. its going to be VERY expencive.

lol good shit

one in the kick was 153... dash 163... i smell...*sniff sniff* shit.

and why are they called moose when cows are the ones that moo? lol there are so many stupid names and phrases that dont make any sence.

thanks slug. so any one of those programs will do what im looking for or do i have to do #1 then #2?

im trying to figure this out too. what file do you drag? every dvd i put in has a bunch of files and none of them are obvious. where in itunes do you drag the file to?

like this the only screws in my top baffle are the ones holding the amp rack and the subs.

around 300. only found one used on ebay and it was 360. pm me if you want to talk about buying it.

lol i take it you looked at my build log. i had mine around 1200. they got stinky some times but i was newer and listening to someone else who i believe told me "dont be afraid of a little clipping" so that should answer why it was clipping lol. but anyways, yes i think if you can keep the signal clean, 1200w should be fine. however, if you arnt very sure of yourself and your ability to design and tune a system then always go a little smaller. use that 750w amp untill you really know how to set everything up then start to look at bigger amps. dont push a sub to its limit till you know how to control it. edit - i had an autotek thank you

any time, i can teach you how to do it yourself while your here.

not a bad deal. i think i sold mine for a little less but i dont really remember. they can take a little over rms. keep it under 1500w, 1200w would be good.

im sure i can fix that if you want to drive here.

i agree. the biggest difference would also be the cheapest option. just add one more kinetik.