skittlesRgood

of resin? no. the resin wont do anything for you. if you mean another layer of mat and resin, sure. but you really dont need any at all if you built your box decently.

i knew that thing was loaded with nasty shit just by the look of them.

i'd say sell your 1200d and get the 2200. that puts you at a little under double the subs RMS. but i mean it's kind of one of those things where if you have to ask, don't risk it. a while back that statement didn't really make sense to me, because i was thinking well how the hell am i supposed to learn if i can't ask? but it really means, just gain some more experience. learn about how it all works so you're more confident in your work. if we just gave you all the answers now, you wouldn't learn a thing. there's my little pep talk for ya. x2

$550 to fix an amp under warranty? you fucking kidding me? send it to zed audio and get it fixed for under $120.

so if you get a second 1200 you can run them in 2ohm each, or strap at 4ohm. i would not suggest you run those amps, on those subs, on your electrical, at 1ohm. that would be .5ohm each amp. if you get the 2200 you can just run it at 1ohm and be fine. it is 2x the rms of the subs though so you HAVE to be careful about clipping and mechanical limits and understanding that IF your subs blow, its because of what you did and not a failure in the sub.

lmao! thats pretty damn funny

i made some copper plates that you screw to the battery terminal then the plate has four threaded holes for your ring terminals. makes it look a lot nicer and a ton easier to work on. but they only work if you have a battery without posts. im not using them anymore and i have tons of materials to make more if you want some.

i just use the big cutters. light squeeze on one side, rotate 90* squeeze again and rotate the wire while squeezing. little practice and you can do it without cutting much of any wire (1-5 strands) and there is no chance of cutting yourself. be safe bro

from my experience, aero ports are louder and slot ports sound better. but thats only because of a few limits of the aero port. they only come 17" long. so if you want a lot of port area, the ports cant be long enough to be able to tune low. so with the higher tuning you lose low end output. a slot port can be as big and long as you want it to be. they are just not as efficient. thats a fairly general explanation but its the guideline i personally follow. you could go with less aero port area and tune lower but lose output from having a small port. or you could make your own aero ports as long as you want.

And id second that as well. Yeah and some recone kits .. LOL read my sig and know that i never went through a recone with that setup Lol, I hate the price, but in all seriousness, FI, SSA, DD, AA, DC, they're all pretty much the same price. I'll look into the mayhems, they're not popular out here in PHX, FI AQ SAA. Those what people run out, there's always a couple kicker and RF people every now and then lol always fun to beat all the fanboys with a different brand lol. in all seriousness though, you want to buy a sub that you know will take whatever you throw at it. whenever you push a sub to its limits you obviously risk breaking it. so spend less money now and hope you dont kill it, but maybe you have to buy recones at some point. then later you will want to upgrade power so you sell your subs at a lower price and buy new subs with higher power handling. or, you spend a little more money now, get a BEAST of a sub and know that you can upgrade power and probably wont have to worry about recones, as long as you dont do something dumb. from what i have used, the mayhem is by far the strongest sub. but there are a TON of subs i have never used. just something to think about man. sorry if that didnt come out clear lol its late.

i have two AA mayhem 12"s for sale. they get louder than the havocs and will take whatever clean power you want to throw at them. plus they are made in america . pm me and we can work out a deal.

im glad its looking better for her. just dont get your hopes up too quickly. just keep praying and visit her as much as you can.

really? lol ive never heard anything like that.

the reason they put in a sheet of deadener would have been because of the foil. its smooth and air flows over it better. adding a spray would leave a textured surface. if some spray on deadener or bed liner actually made a structural difference in the box that the wood couldnt handle, we would all be making boxes out of 1/4" wood and spraying it with bed liner.

clear your inbox.

does the one crossover connect to all 3 speakers or is there a separate crossover for the midbass? does your crossover have jumpers to change some settings?

academy... ya i dont miss those 2 hour workouts with no breaks and no water. the test wasnt shit compared to the academy. 5 miles up hill in formation with someone out of step behind you that keeps kicking your foot, almost tripping you each time... fun lol. congrats and good luck.

details?

why? have you owned one? i never had a single problem with my 12k in my daily driver. worked great for me. i have used both the SD8k and 12k my aq3500.1 was louder then the sd8k the SD8k was heating subs up in less then 30 seconds ( could play full tilt allll day with aq) also didnt sound good...at all ( to me anyways) the 12k..same thing but of course it had a little more power then the aq3500.1 didnt sound good.. sounded like a wet fart.. none of that sounds like my experiences i got an 82 in meca SQ while using my sd12k, turned down of course. my mayhems never got hot, unless i turned it up and clipped the signal. and the amp stayed pretty damn cool. i know SD had problems with the 8k and the 16k though. my team has had two vehicles with two 12ks doing over 160db. so they are solid by all accounts i have seen.

why? have you owned one? i never had a single problem with my 12k in my daily driver. worked great for me.

i got a 12k for well under your budget. a 12k thats rated at 12.8v. pm me if you want to talk about it man.

its the cap. you wont get a proper reading with it.

and if you touch the two probes together do you get a reading? if so, i would say the speakers are fucked.

ya... thats why you are taking the meter off of the cap... right?