skittlesRgood

DC 7.5 or 9 more powa than that 1600w at 2ohm. 6000w strapped at 2ohm if you get both. lol i dont have your number... unless you just pmed me. ill check.

more powa

sold These went into my amp racks and I don't believe they were ever removed. regular scratches at the mounting feet from the screws. bought them brand new in september. not really anywhere else. 9.5/10 physically and 10/10 mechanically. im pretty sure i still have the box for both amps. for those of you that dont know, these are the exact same boards as the sundown 3000. you could even strap one of these with a saz-3000. the only scratch i found, if you can even see it. it didnt get through to metal. price - $450 shipped each, firm, unless you want to pay more the ONLY trades i might consider would be a kinetik 2400. NOTHING ELSE.

ok, 12.2 is very low for resting voltage. you should take the batteries out and charge them one at a time then look at the resting voltage after about an hour, or more. see of one of them is a lot lower.

14.4 is NOT resting voltage... resting voltage means the voltage while the batteries are not being charged. as in, the car is off, and has been for about an hour. how do you know the "pressure" inside the car? have you metered it? chances are you are just getting used to it.

do you mean you are losing output and have no idea on "power"? just trying to make sure you are asking the correct question.

several technical differences. something to do with ripple current and the parts used. you should call them and ask tomorrow.

this shouldnt be a problem on any 4channel as long as channels 1 and 2 are seeing the same loads. same thing with 3 and 4. but the 2 pairs can be different.

he isnt retiring, he isnt calling it a day. this has nothing to do with what happened. just be glad that the designer will be making a new company where he can fully control the product.

x2. you guys will have to wait and see how it all turns out. i dont believe I'm supposed to say. but i do hope this will go down JUST like RE and Fi where the designer, Scott, left RE and made Fi. we now have GREAT products because of that. whatever the new company Eric starts, it will kill anything that image dynamics was making. as hard to believe as that may be. the sad part is, it might be a long time until that happens.

when i had my 1500's strapped i only got 1000w starting at 2ohm, rose to something stupid like 12ohm. wired to .5 strapped, rose to ~2.3ohm and got around 3500w. but the 4500 is a completely different board made by a different build house. so...

those little "spot welds" are not holding your car together...

x2. except that there is a good chance you wont be able to hear a difference. if you want to compete, it would be worth it. they are at home ill post em when i get off work. if i can find my box plans lol couldnt figure out how to save my design on torres calc. i think i wrote it all down tho. click file, save, type in name destination and click save. done thats too complicated. could you make it easier and more like every other program?

ya, you can do that.

for tuning components i would use 100hz but for this test it shouldnt matter much. was it the inner pin or outer part of the RCA that you bent? if it was the inner, so you mean the RCA had a split pin that you just expanded? if so, thats not really a HU defect. its pretty common. in fact thats why I buy split tip RCAs.

I think Fi would be the only ones that could answer that question. hopefully Nick comes in and helps out. I would email Fi and ask directly though.

not all of them do. mine doesnt.

of course, like i said it doesnt apply here at all and i totally agree with you. i was just passing that info to you in case it might help you on your own car. and obviously if my friend clips at ALL they will pop like a fuse lol.

you know... im starting to disagree with this. these SQ guys are running 250-500w to 100w speakers. literally, my friend just told me at 250w his midbass 6.5"s didnt have enough punch so he is going to double the power. its not a good idea for this guy at all but just some info for you.

im going to strongly recommend upgrading the HU first. spend that $300 on an alpine HU and you will have better SQ and you should notice an increase in bass as well. yes your amp will power a pair of SX's just fine but you will want to run at 1ohm. if you have that amp at 4ohm now and you are dropping to 12.9v then at 1ohm you would fry the amp due to low voltage. but just going to 1ohm should double the sub's output.

find the actual rattle. its usually the brake light on the rear deck that rattles. all it would take is some foam tape or expanding foam. as for the rear view mirror... you could glue the ball joints in place with some epoxy. that should help a little. if its the mirror itself shaking inside the housing then ive seen some people do a little bit of expanding foam in there. dont overdue it though.

is this a trick? why did both coils look exactly the same when you blew them lol. sparked the same, reacted the same, blew at the same time, you moved the camera the same way...

here is an idea. disconnect one battery and test it. see if your meter still does the same thing. if not, test the other battery that is still hooked up. if the disconnected battery still says 24v then drops to 12v, i would be confident that its just your meter.

is it all + to + and - to -? double check that. if you are seeing 24v anywhere you are going to hurt something in the car. could be just the DMM but 24v is exactly where you would be if you wired in series so that worries me.

what tone did you use when you measured voltage? if the RCAs are bad, you replace them lol. again, how big of a difference is there? what HU do you have?