vaughn

overloading your alternator will lead to bigger costs in the long run (such as a burnt out alternator). The big 3 is a must. Also, make sure you have the right size power wires running from your existing battery to your amp. Upgrading the size of that wire will be of benefit as well. Here's a quick analogy: you can't stuff 10lbs of shit into a 5lb bag. There are basically two things happening here. First thing is, your electrical system can't handle the demand. Second thing is (and I'm just assuming here, forgive me if I'm wrong about your setup) you're probably running 8 gauge power wire. The bigger the wire, the easier the flow (and higher the flow) during high demand. Even if you're running a stock battery/alternator I would still opt to run 1/0 from your battery to your amp (probably to a 1/0 distro block that accepts 4/8 guage out. That alone will offer an improvement. Here's what bugs me about the "add a second battery" suggestions. You can add a second battery, but again, your alternator will have to work harder to keep both batteries charged. In the end, you're not benefiting much by adding a second battery if all you have is a 70amp alternator. Don't get me wrong, the benefit is there, but in my opinion it's not worth it. Now, if you had a 150amp or higher alternator, throw two extra batteries in that bitch. And to address your headlight solution because of dimming, I'd be careful with that. Especially if you're running cheap ballasts. I'm by no means an expert, but I've been through your position many times.

As a rule, I never mix wet and dry. Bad things can potentially happen when you mix them.

me want

my mind == blown. I'll be in Vegas January 7th to the 16th. I am DEFINITELY coming to check out the hoe

Of course, the best way to find out is to do it both ways. That is truly the only way you'd know which way sounds better.

nobody in the channel #audio, and the channel # has a user named @issues is that correct?

why does his amp look like it's been under water? dayum

Typically the check engine light comes on if you run shit gas or engine is misfiring, or even haven't changed the oil in a while. Good example: my dad has an 07 silverado. Check engine light came on and truck ran fine. I asked him what kind of gas he ran, he said the cheap shit. So, I put some injector cleaner (STP) and some higher grade gas in, and the check engine light went away. Maybe yours is that simple.

but... but...

I don't think he's asking how to structurally make his shit flex *facepalms* wow. I think what he's asking is what can he do to make his shit hit harder and move more air?

Not gonna lie, the smaller sidewalls don't look that good. Looks weird to me.

Since when is 20% represented as 1.20? 1.20 is 120%, not 20%. For 20%, it is 0.20

College dropout Software Engineer President of VaughnSoft

Ok, first of all, it does not hurt your hard drive. It puts more hours on it, yes, but hurting it? Come on. I've been building computers for over ten years, I run all of mine 24/7. The only time I've had to replace a hard drive is to upgrade. I still have a hard drive from 1999 that runs perfect. Also, don't forget, most computers have a setting where if your hard drive is idle, it'll disengage the arms and heads, essentially turning the hard drive off until it needs to be used again. So even if you run your computer 24/7, it's highly unlikely that your hard drive will be hurt by this. One other thing, turning your computer off and on increases the risk of static discharge and hardware damage.

heh... lesson of the day: disconnect battery, else this could happen to you. I'm curious, though, you said the "false floor" screw and carpet looked melted and burned. Do you have any wires running anywhere near it? If so, check the wires and connections. That won't fix your existing problem, but would possibly prevent another fire.