Cadillac John

I know the T3's are an amazing product. I think sonic was selling them quite cheap? When we were putting them in a car I think we sat and looked them over for about 10 minutes. Defiantly a cool little mid that sounded amazing.

4 18's in a T-line? Havent seen that. With a kurfed port along the back doors sending the air along the roof and off the windshield? Tune a few Hz's higher then the FS and call it good hahaha

Did a 151+ on a beat up Meca meter. And possibly tomorrow.

all you have to do is drill 4 holes, 4 brass screws, 12 washers, 4 nuts the four wingnuts to finish it off. Unless you glued the sub in...?

Nope not a thing. Doesnt effect the current at all, or anything to be concerned about.

Efficiency(; things do warm up with dirty songs but other then that plays forever.

Ran under the right rear seat. College is taking up most of our time right now, but Ill ask him if hes down for me to take some pictures of everything.

I'm sure you'll get there someday. You have an EG hatch? those cars take nothing to get loud, grab another Skar!

Already stated the the amp and sub setup. Have three XS's and a AQ 120.4, Q-Logic Kicks. Duel DC Power 300 amp alty's that hold between 13.8-14.5 full tilt, at half Ohm(; Hands down one of the cleanest install I've witnessed in a truck. All Knu OFC wires, DD and CC-1 everything in the car. We demo the car for hours when people and friends want to hear it and not a single thing gets hot. Here are some pictures of the box and DC's http://littleguysdoi...496846/joes-hoe

Here's a buddy's Tahoe with a few AQ 3500's and A few more PSI/AQ 15's. Enjoy!

Run some solder under a 60amp and call it good. This guy lol...why not just hide a copper bar there also..... pretty sure that's cheating i don't run fuses never have..thats cheating Im aware. I am not guilty of this, but it is a route some take to Sand Bag a class which we all know is no better then running a lower fuse rating as well..

More port area, right now you currently have 9-10" or Pa to Cube. Need between 12-16" on average. So pretty much make the dimensions of the port smaller, as its going to mostly free air the subs, but make it longer to gain more Port area per cubic feet. Spl mainly revolves around three things; how you designed the system, how efficient the system is, and what amount of power you through at it. You need efficiency in order to put the power to use. I.e. a glass like finish inside the box, 45's placed in proper places, sanded corners, blah blah blah. The less effort the sub has to use to move air a higher score will produce. Pretty isnt always loud.

Run some solder under a 60amp and call it good.

The only thing I can think of that you need is another fuse at the rear battery..and a Big 3. But I may have missed that in the post, Im tired.

Depends on what type of bandpass the box is. Most 6th order build tune the back chamber low(below 35) and the front chamber gets tuned high(above 40). Regardless of how you tune it bandpass boxes are efficient, but the box performs how you build it. So its best to take your time and do it right.