jmanjr82

On topic as stated check rcas and get a better electrical, have you clamped for power and imp rise?

scottie what battery for a 2005 ford explorer under the hood? (stock replacement?)

yes I totally understand that and what I said is valid. Same as a pair of D2 subs can be wired to 0.5 so on an so fourth man its simple, as I stated its uncommon to do, but it has been proven to work you wire 1 coil on a 0.7sub and guess what you get 0.7 load and coils are internally wound (some will say dont do this) but it has yet to hurt a sub and has won a few world titles and I have ran subs like that for over a year with no problems. Like I said there is logic, it makes sense, but you say Im wrong, thats fine not a problem, realistically it works an usaci titles to prove so.

So which is series, which is parellel and which is series paralleled? 1 dual 0.7 sub can be wired to 0.7, 0.35, 1.4 1 sub divided by 1 coil divided by 0.7= 1.4 1 sub divided by 2 coils divided by 0.7 (using 1 coil only)=0.7 0.7 divided by 2 = 0.35 need we keep going? Explain to me how this is not right? Do you not take the amount of subs divided by the amount of coils divided by the resistance? Cause if you dont please explain how you get a 1.4 ohm load? Im not saying its the option to use Im sayin its possible you would be using 1 side of the sub per say, but normally coils are wound together (internally wound)? I have seen this done alot in the competiton lanes an seems to have worked really well to get more power or the imp your looking for and I actually know a guy personally that has won 2 world titles in usaci using this method so it does happen to work. If 0.35 doesnt work for you cause the amp goes into protect (voltage probably dips to low on deep bass notes) and 1.4 yields an ohm load higher then you would like (because of imp rise) then obviously you could do 0.7 and more then likely be into more power vs 1.4 considering your electrical would handle it. Is that not logical an correct?

Let me ask you this is this not right? 3 Dual 2 subs can wire at 0.25? I thought I said it. 1 dvc 0.7 sub has 2 coils correct? So take 1 sub divided by 2 coils divided by 0.7. 1 divided by 2= 0.5, 0.5 divided by 0.7= 0.71 or the original example I said: 3 subs divided by 6 coils= 0.5, 0.5 divided by the resistance of 2ohm, 0.5 divided by 2 = 0.25 and oddly enough thats what my fluke multimeter reads vehicle off, did I do somthing wrong here?

If your running the amps UNstrapped why not wire 1 sub per amp at 0.71? 1sub/2coils/imp(0.7)=0.714

I am trying to patiently await results. A vid would be nice mr meade as you could show the unit working and upping voltage and kind of tell how it works for you and how easy or hard it was to hook up, way easier to talk then type all that crap!

Nathan can we get a price guide of the cost on the batts so we can figure what we would pay per discount percentage. example (1-D1200 @ 5% @ 10% and @ 15%) that way everyone can see per battery what they would be looking at to spend to help them make up their mind! Thanks in advance.

Do it! Its well worth the effort man! Try to find local help off the forum always people willing to help

sounds good I will rock the banner hell even be a team member if I could. I need powa. Any idea on the vcms nathan? 05 explorer for now an can you pm me please?

Sick I will get in on this as soon as I figure out what I can fit in my truck, nathan got a normal replacement guide for factory batts? I have a 2005 ford explorer eddie bauer I measured and Im not seeing anything that will fit under the hood snug. Im leaning toward the 3400 though let me know. A list of batts an their discount prices would be nice as well please.

yep not a problem kyle. I will say this much, in person it sounds pretty solid for 2-10s in a full size suv thats for sure. Im not really sure how the box reacted, because it seemed to play pretty flat score wise from 28-36hz then it jumped at 37-38hz then dropped back off at 40-50hz. Im guessing with that box it likes to peak at 38hz (pretty obvious). If the box is actually tuned at 31hz its not to bad really. Dont know what kyle had for real world power either, didnt get the DMM and Clamp out, The damn weather and laptop werent helping much either. More time with testing and playing with that vehicle and I can see it doing pretty decent numbers for whats being used.

those subs are beast for sure. Only thing I ask if anyone can answer is the new lvl 6 woofer? It will have a 4inch coil, but will it have the same motor as the lvl 5 just tooled different? In case people havent seen nor looked...check out the cactus woofers!

wtf are you selling them for? They are beasts!! $300 for the pair? Rms?

I found a pair of CS9000s I may buy also, but I will still need a few D3100s for my daily driver!! Show me somthing

Best I have seen thus far is $294 shipped with warranty. Anyone can beat that I will listen to offers...Im ready to buy now really.....!!! Show me pics and prices and we can get moving on a deal! I know they are good lol thats why im after some...Replace 4 Deka 9A31s with 3 Powermaster D3100s should be great save on space also!

Come on nothing? I thought there would be at least 1 or somthing jeez come on!

Im looking to buy some PowerMaster D3100 batteries, if you have some or know someone that has some they want to get rid of let me know prices etc.

That question has been answered several times I even told you what to do and you keep asking. I did 147.7 at the dash with a single 12 and 4200clamped watts on the TL, seriously man its not that hard. Subs up port back, 4-12s would be more cone area then the 2-15s just get somthing and build then test, Im sure you will be close if you just try. Jeremiah ledgerwood did 157.1 on 30seconds of music in his explorer back in 2006 on the tl usaci style in the kick...painful to say the least.

Could have the subsonic and low pass filter set wrong, could have it out of phase, could need to set the gains properly I think there is a tutorial on here to do so. Obvious clipping signal, playing a note well below box tuning.

so its not an actual audiocontrol devide...its the soundstream. I see, so is there no way to change voltage in/on it? Test at the rca outs and ins on it for voltage there. It sounds like setting it properly. I had this same trouble with my maxx-link took hours to get it just right...

what model epicenter is it...thats totally correct forgot about the jumpers on audiocontrol stuff

check the vlts at the rca inputs to start? Did you mess with the epicenter? Turn the knobs an reset everything? I had the same problem with a line driver...I just had to start fresh and reset everything....volume at 3/4 then bring the gains up until it was soft clip then back it off a tick or two.

2 wouldnt hurt, take your max amp draw then plan from there. I would say run 2/0 from front to back off front batt to back batt for pos and neg then do your big 3 upgrade, and toss an alt in there with the batts an see where you sit, if you need more get another alt. Looks like a good plan though

it also depends on the vehicle....