LSN2meBoom916

Steve in install motion-mode= teh blurrr. Lookin good MAYNE. MDF never looked sexier. Loving the countersinks. I'd say spray up the inside, and throw a plexi top on that bish and ta-da! sexy-nesssss. That puppy is a big mofo too for being "a puppy". I went to pick up my shirts (I know man-i saw ur thread & i'll post the pix of my pile of gear ina bit just bein lazy) and I was like DOES THIS THING BITE!?....Prolly make a snack outta my lil ass. <--also curious about the cover material.

Unless you're rollin an OLD SCHOOL (pre 80's) NEVER DO THIS. Most newer cars have a voltage regulator that,in conjunction w/ ur cars computor, monitors system voltage. If you pull the 12v source (batt cable) you're rolling the dice w/ your electrical system. If you DON'T get lucky, the alternator will get so hot trying to make 14.4 volts when it should only have to make enough to compensate the 2volts over static charge (12.45-12-6v) it will wled it self into a big ball of metal internally. Megalo-you yourself said you're not a motor guy, I would not give you carputor advice since it's not my field, so if I were you, I would refrain from handing out advice on motors/electrical. Srry If me sayin so is being mean, but i get this all day at work and it's annoying as hell.

Shweet dude! welcome to the FG club. advice-TAPE/FOIL/MASK off a LOT more than that! Fiberglass resin is RUNNY and THICK-from the look of the angle your floor board is, it'll find is way right to the edge of that tape and screw up your carpet hardcore. I always foil/tape a much bigger area than needed cuz better safe than sorry. Resin is A BIATCH to try to ge toff upholstry/carpet. Also I'd do a layer of something liquid proof like foil so it doesn't soak thru the tape onto/into the carpet and NEVER come out. Just my advice/2 cents. Keep us posted w/ the progress. Good luck too.

Nice flares. I had forgotten bout kerf cuts from woodshop. Soomeone just posted some stuff on them tho so now I guess it's the topic of the month hehe. I think the next ported box I do I'mma try it on both ends of the port: The beginning like you did and at the exterior mouth too kinda like 2000LADE did. Lookin good as always Steve.

I have a portfolio I take to comps/shows. Last comp i went to at Norcal customs up on Auburn blvd here in Sac, the owner/manager guy was checking out my car and I was explaining how i did everything on the car and he looked through my portfolio (pretty much all the stuff i have posted here) and he asked if I needed a job. He said I could teach his guys to do custom. hahaha. I was like thanks that'd be great but not till I'm done w/ school. Oh well. Maybe I'll go seE what's up some day, but i dunno if i wanna go to a shop where the best guy they got....IS ME! plus, them old guys prolly wouldn't take too kindly to being "overseen" or "taught" by a punk ass kid like me hehe. Side jobs are few and far between but more fun from my POV.

NASTY. <--Lovin it. Nice gorillas...they look hungry and pissed. Them subs are pretty so better to show em off JUMPIN. I like em better like this. WASH it tho deeemnit! Lucky kid:P..it's OK I have steve's Hoe to hear locally.

ONE, jenky lil JBL Platinum series speaker mounted on the right side of my monitor....and the rca that goes to the other (left) side speaker is run as a LINE-OUT to my home shelf system: AIWA CX-NMA845 300 total watts It has those shelf style "pods" w/ the built in sub (One 7" in each pod I think) and the midrange speakers get signal via rca's that plug into the main shelf unit...BUT... (Thank gawd...planning pays off here)...The sub outputs are line level: crossed at 75hz and 80rms @6ohm, but I have those lines run to my own custom built car audio subs/enclosures and running 4ohm each. One is a Kicker comp12 in a bandpass box the other is a Kicker comp12 in a sealed box. So the sealed one makes lots of nice accurate punchy bass and the other is just LOUD. Nice combo i think. The unit has a "video" mode that allows it to accept a different source and I just ran the rca from the left JBL computor speaker to the "video" mode INPUT on the shelf unit and ta-da. I can run all my MP3's from my comp on my shelf system or if i/m playing Rogue Spear (not for a long time...) the grenades and gunfire shake the room. The only other SUB setup I like to run in my room, off the above mentioned system, is the box I built for my buddies 2006 Chevy quad cab. It's a tiny lil wedge w/ 2 credence 8's and it's VERY musical and handles all instrumentals and fast bass like in techno music very well. Only problem is it's 2-4ohm subs, wired into 2ohm mono...so if i crank it too much the amp goes into protect and shuts off. Oh well it still gets plenty loud and if not i have the 12's.

Pioneer premier, Kicker CVT, and Earthquake SWS subs are all low depth/shallow mount subs. The Earthquake subs have the highest xmax, but i havn't had a chance to compare the 3. The CVT's look good and the high xmax on the sws is appealing but the pioneers look a lil weak. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...mMakeTrack=true http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1 Also I found some Cadence Mallat subs. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1

I been rockin mine at school and work, and my coworker showed up at my house to pick up his dad's riad ei just put tunes in and he was wearin his hahaha. I was stoked about hgettin mine too, esp since I just drove up there and got to demo the new setup too. OUCH. -BTW-Steve is just as cool in person: I only usually see em at comps... "stop by for some xbox and a brew anytime bro". Still the man.

Ok well i guess you could just stalk/pester the hell outta Eric (I think) and he might still sell ya one. or do the HW and figure one out ya darn self. That always worked for me. Grind.

Have you tried running it walled? Are you against walls? If so....I'd think a rear ported, upward firing setup w/ the 4 12's should do well (CRX style of course) either that or subs against glass and port back. I have had good numbers in hatches w/ those type setups and LESS luck w/ subs firing UP in back seats or forward in back seats (hatches w/ rear seats I mean, I know crx is a 2seater). Maybe try a bigger box w/ 2 subs, maybe a Tline or a folded horn. Those should get silly loud. The only folks I know who design the folded horn type is TTB but they sell designs too. ~2 centavos

Kudos for coming clean. Liars are the worst, so DONT do it again. "Fool me once, well, thats the ambiguity of the Internet, fool me twice, get beat down w/ the ban stick"...I think thats how that ones goes Truthfully-KNOWING you're 14 makes A LOT of sense to me and I'm betting many others. No need to "pimp big" if you are not really. If you want help from this forum, BEING TRUTHFULL is the key, cuz aint NOBODY gonna help you if you're not even being straight w/ em. For someone to read your MANY threads/Q's, and offer up ACCURATE & LENGTHY tech info/help, and then find out you were faking...? Would you wanna help that person again? I think not. DON'T waste these guys time if you plan on benefitting from their knowledge and experience. That said, good job on being mature enough about it to say the truth, AND fixxing your sig was a good move too. let the Q's roll.

It's pretty much all been said. They have "foot in mouth" syndrome..or maybe diarhea of the brain? WE....HAVING DONE IT....KNOW, just how easy it is to shake some windows, especially BG OL wave catching storefront windows w/ lotsa SD (surface area to the noobs). They should have any physical science based credentials YANKED for talking that shit. I would say "UNBELEIVABLE"...but sadly it's QUITE believable. I see/hear it everyday and sadly it sounds like you do too Steve and in your unlucky case is wannabe audio "PRO's" taking shots FROM THE PORCH. Real life experimentation trumps theory ANYDAY. I'm gonna keep an eye on them nerds over there and I just may register/sign on to help/school em on the BASICS of how audio waves would effect storefront windows. Keep doing what you doin Steve. Hopefully some day THOSE guys will get the demo. I sat in the tahoe last sunday....A/C NOT REQUIRED! Steves Hoe MOVES TONNS of air, and the mids SCREAM loud and clear.

Just thought i should quote myself..quoting ^^ about MTX NOT repeat NOT being the only who does this. aka all 3 of us share the same opinoon that MTX, KICKER, KENWOOD, JL and numerous others overstate their specs and over present them in "shady" ads. Everybody does it...except those that don't really advertise and just let their rep speak for itself...AA, Fi, and RE come to mind.

Only time you would have "bad cancellation problems" in that kind of setup is if you have a relatively SMALL box in an otherwise HUGE trunk and THEN try to get that sound/pressure that's 1)confined 2) allowed to reverberate/bounce around in the trunk BEFORE it finds a way out (rear deck/seats), to have waves crashing into each other in equal/opposite directions and thus = cancellation. Any time you generate more than one wave and in multiple directions you run the risk of them colliding and causing cancellation. If you point the subs forward (behind the seats pointed towards interior of car) or up through the rear deck and seal the front wave off from the trunk completley, not only will you not have cancellation but it will be louder, and have little to no trunk rattle as all the pressure is relieved in the interior cabin rather than just shaking the big flat trunk lid which is where you would otherwise lose MUCHO bass. Flat panels are more succeptabel to flex than cureved ones and generally have big time surface area that pressure can cause to flex..flex=lose of pressure, loss of pressure =less bass. Easiest example of how to do a trunk car...copy Steve's FIRST build of the civic before it was stolen. 2-18's ported forward and sealed off from the trunk='d mucho bass inside and no trunk rattle.

Amen brotha. Marketing guys get paid BANK for a reason. Smoke & mirrors my friend...They sit down w/ an R&D/tech guy and figure out what test will make thier woofer "SMOKE THE COMPETITION"...And they "happen to be rolling video". Even "CLAIMS"...these days it's hard to even trust T/S specs as most folks/companies use w/e version makes them look best like putting xmech as xmax. Gotta "copy" & go with what the LOUD guys use, or just experiment urself.

Damn I like that that one. The baskets hangin inside visible thru the plexi right behind the headrest is a nice touch. W/ all the whiteness I woulda lit it up on the inside but i'm kinda a lighted box whore. I do my "showy" stuff like that. X2 on the 155...to be able to "scoff" at a 155db and throw that box out MUST be nice...but then again 27cuft jebus titty-f*ckin christ man. Good bye cargo-area, good bye rear view,...hello 150db at 27hz i guess. TANK-OF-A-BOX Steve, very nice. I think if it was AT or Below window line I'd rhino line it,add some lights, and call it a day. Another junkyard bum gets a nice house with a window.

judging from the pics on the previous page...my $$$'s on he would have no prob with doing that

Well, it definately LOOKS loud. Nice job on the humongo-box. & That's funny...my Integra can haul 4 peoples....but you def. got me on flex...OUCH. That lil spolier is gettin RAPED. I give it...maybe 2 weeks. Post up as soon as you got some ###'s. Where are ur amps on this one? did i miss that...it has been a while on this thread.

Yup. You guys pretty much got it the only thing hasn't been mentioned is that for a long time comps were run off the rated power of your amps. The everyone caught on and started "underrating" their amps or marketing "cheater amps" that are rated at 125x2 @ 4ohm but the amp is 1/4ohm stable and you can get tonns of power of that same amp bridged/at low impedence. The idea w/ going off SD and fusing is just a more accurate way of telling how much power the amp is really gonna be putting out based on the fuse limiting the amperage the amp can recieve thru the fused power wire, AND the surface are of the subs ur running. I don't see a problem with it other than anyone who isn't "a competitor" and knows how the competitions are setup, but rather jsut shows up to get metered or try his luck is at a disadvantage as MOST systems that are not setup specifically for comps/meca/db drag etc, would have a fuse under hood, or under 18" from the battery and nothing else. The fuse at amp is purely a "rules issue" and like you said it sounds like most folks didn't know how the classes were setup and got bumped up based on fusing issues. In the end I guess it makses things more fair and keeps the cheaters at bay for a while.

I got pulled today leaving campus. I was coming out of the parking garage and notice a black and white coming round the opposite corner so i just drove nice and slow and waited super long at all the stop signs and all. I had the volume at about 10-12, bass knob at ZERO and the windows halfway down, playin some love song on Jibbs cd my epic 160 showed 132db (that's a/c so MAYBE 127db TL). As soon as I hit the straight away after the stop sign he lights me up. He said "I pulled you over for your bass" I was like are you serious? (I wanted to say THATs NOTHING fool, watch this!)...but i plead my case sighting all the exhaust junkies revvin their V8's and rice rockets w/ 3" pipes AND he still tried to say it was me settin off alarms. I said "did any go off? my windows were down and I didn't hear any?" He claimed that on the OTHER side of the garage an alarm was "chirping due to the echoing of my bass". Thats a load of crap tho cuz a I saw an Mr2 w/ a gross body kit and some loud ass pipes goin over there. He was obviously just lookin around and saw me and profiled me out. My car's not stock and In that regard I'm askin to be profiled to some degree but he was just pullin stuff out his ass cuz he musta been bored. W/ my back pack in the passenger seat, and my student parking pass hangin from the rear view he asked if i was a student. Smooth move newguy. He said something stupid like he was gonna "hook me up" or "help me outta this one" and he let me go with a warning. He knew it was a BS call. If I was DUMPIN in there, I would admit it. I have been pissed after a test or w/e and left in a noisy rush. But I was just minding my own bizzness. On a different note- Driving w/ no license, DUI, suspensions, no insurence, all that is the dumbest sh*t you can do and if you get caught, TOUGH NUTS HOMIE. Can't handle the time/fines, dont do the crime. I'm sorry but I have no tolerance for that shit. The same kinda folks that DRIVE up to my shop, hit the curb, open their door into my car, stumble in and put their beer on the counter and start askin me for help. Then they can't remember what year/make/model car they have and usually say something retarded like "...it's a 350, they're all the same!...I'm too drunk to tell what it is you go look under the hood!" I'm not sayin you couldnt have a beer and drive responsibly LATER but theres a limit and I dont care how good of a drinker you are or how much body mass you have 4beers, and then hop in the driver seat is pretty stupid IMO. You're askin for that one.

I would totally agree..."newer isn't always better/upgrade" and the FOSGATE example is PERFECT. I would take old school RF subs over new ones for sure. Just my personall preference. HOWEVER, I didn't say NEWER is ALWAYS better, but it CAN be. In the Kicker example, go newer, in the Type R example, Newer again, and in the RF example I'm torn in that I havn't personally played with the entire new lineup of RF subs, but from what I've seen/heard I'd go old school on RF subs. It will always depend on the trend of a speciific company whether their subs are better one year to the next. Generally once they have their reputation built up for having the best subs out and can sell them on name brand alone, they start pulling funding and dumping it into the R&D of their amps so they can start saying best subs AND amps. That happens a lot along with the occasional "all out bad idea/flop" (also known as sony explode).

I think technically the chamfer only relates to the "bevel" or angle of the edge of where the pole vent terminates, aka the mouth of that hole (which on old school fosgate powers is notorious ginormo and sexy). On subs like the Fi line the chamfer option is just an added bit or aerodynamic help like an aero port flare but they actually bevel it at an angle instead of a gradual round over like in that pic^^^. When I first got into audio one of my brothers "homies" had an old Accord 4 dr w/ 4 power 12's in it and a 500m to each one. That was the loudest thing I had ever heard in my young life. We were all in his garage standing up insde as close to the house as you can get and he drove by/past the driveway on the street w/ all windows down and it was louder than sitting in the back seat of another buddies geo metro w/ 2 kicker 12's in bandpass right behind your head. Those vented poles let out some serious airflow and PWR's get stoopid loud ported.

Ok- The color thing was mentioned in reference to these/those^^^ from that link NOT BEING REAL as in the offer/deal was a SCAM. We all know the color of a sub wont effect it, and especially if it's inside the box where no one would see then who cares right? Well, if it's the wrong color BECAUSE IT'S NOT A REAL TYPE R, that would = the suck, and mean you got sold somthing OTHER than what you thought you were paying for. It's up to him and anyone else who likes/wants type R subs to have at em, if you don't like em that's cool too, but some folks think they are decent subs too and it's not their job to convince you to use them nor your job to talk them out of it. I like Type R subs. So do lotsa other folks. The idea on UPGRADING....well, going from the older Type R's to the newer Type R's IS an upgrade just like when I swapped out my CVR12'S from 02 to the 05 versions. My car got louder and the new subs (which have a different surround and slightly more xmax) sound deeper. Same is true of the Type R's: New design has a different, double ridged surround that allows for more xmax and they bumped up the power ratings from 300rms to 500rms and 1000peak to 1500peak. He may have a boner for Type R's cuz he saw what tommy did with one 10 and ASSUME he will have good luck/results using what to him is an "already proven woofer". Either that or maybe he is a ricer that likes the Type R logo just cuz it is an R. Either way, if he wants to upgrade from older type R's to new ones I say go for it I have heard/seen both do very well, sound good, and take a beating. If i could get a decent deal on 4 Type R 12's I 'd rock em in a similer sealed box to what i am running and my car would be louder than it is now.