LSN2meBoom916

I run 4 CVR 12's. IMO-No better woofer I have HEARD for less $$...mind you: Mach 5 subs are "less $$" and they look like potentially decent subs. Haven't put em head to head yet but Pioneer premier are comparable specs and cost less $$. There are others out there easily killin CVR's but, that I find- not ANY for less $$. $75 shipped for a CVR12 is kinda tuff to beat. ~2cents

Mix it a lil hot w/ the hardener, and make the lil "oven" as mentioned-gotta surround it in heat-I "box it in w/ panels of 1/4" mdf or cardboard and run a space heater in there to keep the box nice and toasty and just keep an eye on it while it's dryin.

Yea I agree w/ the L7 8's I actually have 3 of em to replace those 2 8's in the truck once the weather's better and finals are over. Nice work as usual RAY. Any ##'s on the truck just as reference of how loud it could be w/ 8's done right?

or run some 8's ;D This in an '06 2500HD quad cab duramax diesel..yet to be finished. ZERO SPACE! amps are: KAC 8152D SUBS KAC 8452 Mids (4chann)

HAHHAHAHA! Video games...last one I played...maybe burnout or gotham racing a few yrs ago in my buddies supra Mk iv TRD widebody w/ modded xbox i put in..just testing it i swear! (2 PG octane R10's, PG 9.0:5, mbquart fronts, Infinity 2 way rears, Clarion indash).

Alpine deck- Sub level: 15/15 Max volume listened to: 27/35 Bass: -3 to 0 out of +/-7db Trebel +7 out of +/-7db Bass forward: off Epic 160: knob minimum to 1/8th gain Band WIDTH: widest Frequencey: 40hz Mic: spl peak hold

Tied 1-1... the install points will be undetermined till lade's done Now it just comes down to who's louder, and maybe then SQ? ;D Now taking bets...

^^^ Beat me to it (pun pun) on the by-nines video. I was gonna say that van AND there a dude (Powered4Sound maybe?) rollin 2 by-nines doin a 145db (TL) in a bug and i think b4 that he had 10-audiobahn 6 1/2" in a vw sirrocco or some madness. I still have my heart set on a "wow-no way!" setup like that but imma cheat and use a buncha 8's

Hey steve you see Dom Iraggi's post on the matter? Maybe hit em up?

Yea anytime I'M there MWFSS 330-8pm I'll do w/e I can to hook it up. My boss (Hard ass vietnamese guy) loves me so i bet if you said you were w/ me even he'd take care of ya. Most the guys in there would know ya from the vids of the Hoe anyhoo i bet. We are the smallest shop so kinda limited on whats on hand but I can order w/e we stock at bigger shops or at least do the "foot work" findin shit 4 ya. Lemme kno if there's anything on any of them rides u need.

Glad to hear it's all square again. I was tryin to explain to my cowerker how if you did come get the pump from us it would STILL be nuts cuz you'd prolly roll the civic ;D. The most my shop has ever seen/heard/felt is my 4-12's and that "owns" the area (kinda sad I know).

Hot dogs = lips and hooves Cooked doggy....I won't go there. nasty.

Subs def moving and you got a lil flex up front but dude- TINT THE REAR WINDOW! I'm afraid fr you after seein that. Thats like an invite to a snatch and run thief tryin to get ur stuff-DESPITE whether or it will come out easily/how heavy it is etc-thieves don't think that far ahead and if they cant get it they may break it and run away leaving you a broken install and missing window :'( Looks coo, might sound coo, but it looks too exposed for my comfort. ~2cents (u asked for comments)

So you have your parts all squared then? If you want pricing/options and what not lemme kno I'm headin to work in a few. I'll look it up anyhoo. Sounds like you got it under control. & Sorry I dint get ur mssge till late. I crashed last night and had class this morning till just now. Lemme kno if u still need anything, or I can help @ all.

Yo Steve! 1st off, I'm no "master Mechanic" or ASE certified yet (still waiting on test results), but I have worked at AutoZone for lil over 6years and IMO it's the filter, the pump, or both. Rays right. Change the filter 1st and fuel pump strainer-when you run down to Empty you start to suck all the particulates and metal shards (microscopinc even) and general "crap" that is in all gas good or bad, all that which is normally "settled" on the tank floor gets pulled into the fuel pump strainer which is normally a "pre-filter" small cotton-sock lookin thing (in tank of course) that protects the pump from junk gettin in it. If you run down to E and get ALL that bottom dwelling junk caked up on the outside of the strainer it can block pressure and form a "one way valve" that may settle after the truck is off for a while and sits. then the suction/flow of gas pulls the junk back over the face of the strainer and blocks it hence the "fired right up, ran like it was choking, then died altogether. Then like RAY said to make sure that THAT was the only problem and not something like the pump just being dead or the fuel pump relay not kickin the pump on, reinstall it all and check pressure at the fuel rail (should be TBI on ur truck) if you still got nothing try the relay 1st (cheaper) then the pump. If you need the parts/cheaper or just wanna confer bout it/check stock places I work @ The AutoZone @ 9210 Kiefer blvd & Tallyho in Rosemont, near Rancho. Shop # is 916-364-5917 Ask for Chris. I'm there MWFSS after 330pm-8pm I'm closing Management. Happy to help if I can. Good luck bro.

sounds good.

I'd say cost wise your best bet is prolly those 2 kenwood monoblocks- I ran those to the 2-Fosgate HX2 15's in that lexus and it humps pretty good despite being trapped in the trunk and those amps are at 2ohm mono each and dont get hot. If you have more $$ and want/prefer one BIG amp I'd say go with a HIFONICS BXi2006D. 2000watts @1ohm and solidly built from my exp. It would cost about $30-$50 more than the 2 kenwoods (shipped in both cases). http://cgi.ebay.com/06-HIFONICS-BXi2006D-C...1QQcmdZViewItem Or if you have more $$ to throw at it maybe a beefier Hifonics yet w/ the HERCULES 2000 watt (rms) http://cgi.ebay.com/HIFONICS-XX-HERCULES-C...1QQcmdZViewItem Or if u like Phoenix Gold maybe a couple Octane R15.0:1's...bout $200 each shipped http://cgi.ebay.com/Phoenix-Gold-Octane-R1...1QQcmdZViewItem Just some options.

Ernesto-No disrespect here @ all man but here's my point: I would think he'd want "the most (output), best sound" for his $$, so why not shoot higher than 120db? You and i know it's very possible given even the equipment listed so far. So, rather than pointing out how sony xplodes are not as great as some other prods (which I totally agree with) and how 120db on a TL is not that difficult, I just meant "lets all throw our 2cents in" on what PRODUCTS/brands might acheive a 120db or better (the more dbeez the merrier) and then we can come to a consensus maybe? possibly make his decision on how to rebuild based "the SMD pros" rec's. Coo? No hatin here man just tryin to help out the SMD folks w/ info/commentary. :^

Niiiice work dude! :^ As stated b4, It really looks OEM. If you were going for wild and aftermarket looking, not so good ...Looks quite factory, even the lines are like a OEM piece-I like a theft deterrent interior approach-Untrained eyes-keep moving, trained eyes, congrats homie nice work. ~2cents

After seeing this I put up my '88 shitty mustang hatch install. I put it in the members showoff/builds section tho cuz i figg'd it's get moved there anyhoo. Hope that's Kosher.

If you're in Cali esp NORCAL i have one for sale. It's slanted on both ends (front/rear) and straight on the sides. 3/4" construction w. internal bracing and poly-filled. 30" wide X 14" tall and around 40-45" bottom depth. Was built for THOSE WOOFERS BY A PRO SHOP. Pounds harder than I ever thought. Covered in Black vinyl w/ nice stitching and one terminal cup. Will fit JUST ABOUT ANY SUV nicely. ~2cents

ok all joking aside man THAT sux sorry to hear bout your loss. -Lets try to focus on squeezing a 140db outta this scenario rather just sh*t talking brand-x and saying how easy a 120db is. My rec's: Stay w/ the alpine type R subs- avail on ebay brand new w/ warrenty for around like you paid originally-2 of those in decent ported box should HAMMER well above 120db even on a new TL. I would say 2 KAC-9152D's would be a step up and stay under $300 shipped for 2 amps (the largest in the Kenwood monoblock line SAME amps I ran in the lexus and mustang and no complaints at all very nice stuff for the $$) Some 5 1/4" or 6 1/2" components up front avail at a decent price online check ebay especially some good deals all the time thru online stores, or places like sounddomain.com, crutchfield.com & acaraudio.com are good for info and then search a lower price once you find sum u like...the best way to choose mids is to audition them (listen to some in person)-one man's "sound Q" is another man's "trash can farts" so find out what ur into b4 you buy "the best thing out". I can speak for the kac 8452 as a good 4channel, but any good 75x4 rms-100rms amp would be good for ur mids and Kenwood/hifonics/alpine/Phoenix Gold are sum i'd look into. Hifonics are a lil more overbuilt than the Kenwoods but will be a lil more $$ too. Maybe throw some $$ at a nice Stinger audio batt or similar/optima/KINETIK/etc. Just my 1st impression/ideas- lemme know if you need more details on product matching.

yea RAY's correct, it's more like a "scratch avoidance thing- like "build it ugly", make it pretty "enough" then "color it" w/ this stuff that's like paint but thick enough to withstand scratches and scuffs and only show the top coat color not all the way thru to the undercoat/primer color. Still I thought I'd mention it in here and one you pro's would know eithermore about it and elaborate or just add ur exp w/ it. This was my 1st exposeure to it, and I think it will take some "refining" before it replaces my painting routine.

Optima (most companies follow same color scheme) yellow tops are DEEP cycle, so they are intended for use where you have electrical components that require power for a duration that would drain the battery down. A deep cycle battery can be FULLY or nearly fully discharged and then charged back up and work fine. Optima RED tops are not deep cycle batteries. Thus they are intended for a decent (200-500)amp output in a quick burst to spin the motor and start the car, but then NEED an alternator/generator to immediately start recharging them and keep em "warmed up" in the 13-14.8v range while the cars running (extra voltage coming from alt/generator)12.45-12.6v is the range while car is off. There are always acceptions to those rules of course, cleanliness or terminals/corrosion, ambiant temp, time allowed to recharge off alt/generator b4 car and restart, ALL comes into play. Red top = Starting Yello Top = Deep cycle Blue top = Marine/other/audio use. Some times will be both starting and deep cycle/dual use. ~2cents

Yea i was actually surprised by how "uniform" the finish was. I'm helping this lady friend (co -workers sister) w/ an art project and one of her art compadres suggested it for the "build material". She's like "cool I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO FIBERGLASS!" <----Hits up this guy w/ an install or 2 (see Lexus/Integra/Mustang/300zx, etc) under his belt. So I been glassin it up artsy-fartsy stile last couple of nights and it's gettin there. I have no means of pics yet but i will post em once I do. Her art show is Sunday I think and some one should be snappin some pix I told her to get me some decent digi pics 4 you guys so jus be patient they'z comin.