STEvil

magnet weight doesnt equate to a linear motor strength increase as you are suggesting.

could have torn the the tripple joint (where the coil and spider are attached to the cone) or maybe the amp is toast.

Series-parallel the drivers. 4-4-4 = 1.33 4-4-4 = 1.33 1.33+1.33 = 2.66 http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm

No, if you have one inverted and one not, you need to switch the + and - on one of the subs. Change phase on a HU or amp switches all + and -, so it will not change a thing unless you wire them correctly. Methinks you should understand better before trying to correct. What he said was correct, what you said was also correct but did not differentiate between the phase switch and swapping leads, which honestly has been answered 1000 times already anyways.... The phase switch(es) are only to be used when all drivers are facing the same way, assuming single-amp configuration. If inverting some drivers and leaving others normal then you must swap the positive and negative leads to keep them in phase with each other. As to the correct position of the phase switch, it should be tested at both 0 and 180 in any configuration. Weird things do happen..

I think he's set at the wrong setting. Two more clicks clockwise.

If I had the materials and time to waste i'd build it just to try.. then i'd build a box for 4 12's I say go with 2 12's or 4 12's.

Technically speaking, it is still .5 ohms, bridging an amp does not reduce ohms. Bridging an amp increases minimum ohm capability however. Please read slowly what I wrote.

BUT!!!! a 4000 watt rms 18 sure the hell is much stiffer then a 600 watt 12 so giving the 4000 rms sub 1200 watts will be under powered and not move as much as the 12's with the same power.. you could run a bigger more effecinet box but that will only go so far in all my testing the subs getting there rms was allways louder and less peaky then the under powered sub Just because a woofer can handle more power, does not meant that it will be stiffer. In fact, it shouldnt be. Some are, yes, but it depends on the woofer. The stiffness of some woofers is a side effect of the adding lateral control to the suspension. You can say. But you are saying that your woofers get smelly from 600w rms each? I think you may have another issue at hand and that distortion. Have you attempted to adjust gains and level settings with an O-scope or any clipping meter? Or the help of a knowledgeable gain setter? Proper tuning can be your solution. Also, if you are looking to upgrade, a higher end single 18 does have the potential to perform better. I would suggest an efficient woofer but also set your gains right or you may have the same issue. The sub im looking at is an SMD 18 The gains were set buy an authorized JL audio dealer. as for clipping the headunit never goes above 24/35 and the ipod is on 80/100 i check all my songs on audacity for clipping as well. if i see one clipped note, it doesn't play ever. to much money in this system with little to no bang just cause a dealer set your gains in no way means he knows what hes doing he MIGHT but he is a sales person thats it for the smd i would look at a differnt sub that thing is a beast i dont think your ready for Dont act like you never had your first time at anything. I am on this forum for a reason. dude i was being serious with you its a lot of money and you really should know what your doing with that sub did you walk befor you could crawl? if you cant understand why your subs smell YET i say yet cause you can learn then really your not ready but just cause i say that dont mean shit go for it if you really want it ill put it to this way i got into rc helicopters had a few ok ones then jumped up to a super big boy crazy one i keep destroying because i thought i was ready i was not so now i keep repairing it cause i dunno what i am doing and i crash it i now put it on the self and now i am getting a better more simple learning heli befor i try and fly the expensive bad ass one ive speny more money between my two w6's then this one SMD. This is a downgrade in cost, but upgrade in power. I will learn as you have learned with your helicopter. But i actually have the money to keep using the bad ass smd. You spent too much

If the amp is a 2 channel amp what you drew will blow up your amp for 2 reasons: Firstly its a 0.5 ohm load, secondly you mixed your channels. You need to keep the channels separated unless you are bridging, and in that case only a single negative and a single positive connection are used. If you bridge a 2 channel amplifier you need to halve the final calculated impedance. That means at a 0.5 ohm load the amplifier will see 0.25 ohms on each channel.

not even a question, stick with the JL's. Not likely to fit in a t-line in your civic though, unless you get creative with some cardboard construction tubes (they're meant for cement forming) then some fiberglass..

Save yourself the time and do not do subs up....it is the worst...i went that route first and then found out both forward or backward sounded way better, Design like a v-shaped box facing forward or backward.... Apparently you didnt do it in the right car then. Cause it works extremely well in open backed cars, such as SUVs. I did it in my SUV and it hits pretty hard. Its the the best set up for a trunk P.S. my sig is my old box He has a trunk car, not an open-back car. Subs back port back is best in them unless you seal it, which he could probably do if he made a v-shaped forward facing box.

difference comes when you can push the sub to the point of maximum excursion and when producing very low frequencies. If you model your enclosure and install environment you can create an excursion/power graph to tell you if the DD subs extra movement capability can even be used at your power levels.

airspeed wont decrease as you are doubling your air volume at the common point of the port. Dividing the common point increases port surface area and changes calcuations vs common port. Common port is more efficient, just put some rounded corners in there and a V shaped piece at the bottom to optimize it.

ask XSAoRAD.. the guy who owns the youtube channel, from the UK it seems.

Nothing wrong with using wikipedia for school as long as you dont graze over the topic then copy/paste it into whatever you need it for. The info is there if you take the time read then branch out a little and have enough of a mind to weigh an opinion or two if there seems to be a point of contention. That assumes you're smart enough to realize points of contention though. The poor teaching methods of most scholastic enterprises these days are not doing our young generations as much good as they did for us and our parents I believe...

You can get around the blackout I think rolling blackouts would have been better. Access for 15 or 30 minutes, then no access for 15 or 30 minutes kind of thing.

Tune to 35, leave room for a port extension. Best of both worlds.

grammar?

probably clipped to death when they were wired to 2 ohms.

Are you sure you dont start losing SQ at over 80db? what about 90? 100? 103.4? 73?

I hope they realize its uses more energy to create the LN2 and the sound waves than it does to incinerate a body. but really, who cares other than the crazy tree huggers?...

How hard are you going to run the equipment and for how long? For short periods you can get by on batteries. For longer periods you need lots of alternator to back it up..

Should have kept the L7's and put them in a bandpass

nope, I dont download movies on a mobile connection. Youtube lots, but never movies. Get them other times on a wired network.

so all the cube vans, pickups with campers, semi-trucks, and anything which has no rear window at all is illegal? might want to tell them their law is broken. edit i'm all for a plexi/carbonate wall though, that would be badass