Cashdollar2009

I've heard some "popping"instances were caused by a hard ass clip too. Find a digital muilti-meter at the very least and take 2 minutes to find and follow the gain setting chart. The gain is by no means a set in stone volume knob. Depending on the input voltage the amplifier is seeing from the rca's helps to determine how much that signal needs to be ampified. Clipping is not your friend.

Someone trolling? Lol OP, what are your box specs? Perhaps they're bottoming out because your net internal airspace is too big for the power you're giving them?

Subs up, port back. 6ft^3 net port tuned to 32 Hz. Leave the box the ports width away from the rear hatch. At 6ft^3 try to use 90in^2 of port area. Upgrade to at least a run of 1/0 to the rear. Just run it overyour existing 4ga. No use in wasting existing wire. Look into a bigger battery for the rear to aid the HC600. The HC600 is a small battey for your specifc application. Look into a larger battery such as a Deka 9a31 or a similar group 31. The alternator could honestly hold off for now on that power. That will give you more money towards subs and building materials. In that price range I'd look into both the DC Audio Level 3 line as well as Sundown's SA line. Both rather efficient drivers and should do you great off of that power.

good point Touche.

What frequency?

My friend runs the 3500.1d and has been told by DJ himself that the clip light actually comes on slightly before clipping actually happens. I wouldn't rely on it as the end all solution though. My buddy's real careful on his 18" XL's as far as the clip light goes. Maybe you could be overpowering them a bit and getting them warm? 1,100wrms per sub may be a tad much even or beefy level 3's. Lots of variables. Have you been smelling it at all?

Since the leads have burnt free from the stitching, they've now managed to spend however long slapping up against the cone. Slapping continuously like that will eventually lead lead to a failure. In this case broken tinsels, and your best bet would end up being a redone. Honestly, your best bet would be to try your best to carefully stitch them back to the spider. It's not hard to clip, jut gotta be careful.

I would put money on this... The subwoofer was seeing a clipped musical signal thus heating up the tinsels allowing them to burn through the stitching attaching them to the spider. Through further abuse, the leads snapped due to heat and slapping off of the cone. Soldering could work. Looking into a recone and turning the gains down would be his best bet.

From watching Ed Lestor's recent videos, wouldn't ordering dual 4's and wiring straight to 1-ohm in parallel be more efficient? I understand this is by no means an spl oriented setup, but might as well make every .1db or .2db count?

http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/mono-amplifiers/90079-rockford-t4000.html

Not sure if there is a thread on this guy or not, but he seems to be doing stuff with Hopsin now. The first time I heard him on a track with Hopsin I thought he was more annoying than anything. But just listening to his lyrics he's actually damn good. Real music. Sending messages. This one has another rapper personifying hip-hop and pretty much talks about how fucked up the industry is today: Here's another one where he just tears the whole song up with no chorus: Hopsin and SwizZz freestyling a little for their old contest:

I listen to Webby on the regular A buddy of mine wrestles for Hofstra and said that Webby would party with the wrestling team all of the time. Said he's a real chill dude. Would ball with them every once in a while too.

Posited basically for Mac Miller's part between 1:00 and 2:20. YUNG MULA BABY... Lol fuck that. The other three come off as scrubs to me. Just a quick cypher.

A couple more: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ek-Ec8iLnos And him killin' a cypher: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vS7ShbhK0eQ

Lol not new. Have all of his shit. Kids pretty good. Only 19 years old. Went to the same high school as Wiz Khalifa. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYMZ0GA8tLQ

Cavalier trunk box, port to side. 15" Level 4XL Crescendo 3kwp @ 2-ohms Little over 1,000wrms after voltage drop and rise. Stock alternator and a Deka 9a31 + Kinetik HC1800 in trunk. 144.3 @ 54Hz on dash sealed after demoing all show. Box tuned to 34Hz and does 143.XX @ 40Hz. Same sub and box did a 144 @ 36Hz in my car sealed from trunk with port tuned to 30Hz and Crescendo @ 1-ohm. (6" aero, plugged front hole from port in my car, and cut side hole to make it side firing in buddies car. VERY happy with transition.)

Lol this goes for a lot of things. Yeah, you're constantly around your own body odors all day. So you've probably just grown up used to it.

Whoah.... Voltage and frequency? I can't even hook up my 5k yet. But some of these numbers coming out of the 5k are making me feel a lot better trying to justify spending my money.

This.

I... feel like I need to take a shower or something now.And go do something manly. Watching a guy bounce a subwoofer on his penis just isn't my cup of tea.

I... feel like I need to take a shower or something now. And go do something manly.

They ask for 1.0ft^3 a piece. So here's a box for both of them for $45.00. Good temp to hold you over. At least built to the sealed recommendations. http://cgi.ebay.com/New-3-4-MDF-Dual-Sealed-Sub-Car-Enclosure-2SL-12-2-0B-/370503536384?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5643bb4f00#ht_2155wt_1135

What frequency? Nice scores.

I had actually made mention of this in my post from last night that i closed accidentally. Yes that is the purpose of a port to convert rear waves 180 degrees into usable front wave. This is obviously more efficient. Now look at how the output goes from rear to front wave forms. There is always cancellation occurring inside confined spaces. also look at the output areas, subs cone area vs port area. Again look at restrictions and the path a rear wave whether it comes off the front of the sub or the back of the sub (if inverted) has to go through to become a output. Again you will find you get the majority of your output from the subs wave outside the enclosure. You will however have greater SPL inside the enclosure because its pressurizing a smaller loaded area, but that means if the SPL is trapped inside the box it is not getting outside, and you are not inside the box. So to run over this again you get the most output from outside the enclosure (sub normal or inverted) and less from the port or rear wave output. So now outside of the enclosure put the test i stated to go use and think about this. Do you want your more efficient outputting wave trapped inside the enclosure or do you want it outside where it is combined with the more efficient output of the enclosure? Thats right why not pair up the two best outputs for more gain? Variables or not you want to optimize every aspect of the system, so why bottle neck here? I have nothing against inverted, but this is all stuff i know from years...... and years of playing with this stuff. And like i said most of this here is basic look at it and see the differences. Here is a good visual... Look at this pic, you put this motor in front of your main output and you can see how it would affect it in a HUGE way. If you have your glasses on and look real hard you can see there is something in the way on the back end of this sub, and all subs. Makes perfect sense to me. I appreciate you taking the time to clarify those things for me.