bumpinTL364

i like it, looks extremely clean to me..... what up with the wheels is right though, I'd def drive it if they were all the same color (and not yellow)

ur not fitting a proper t-line in a trunk. maybe an 8 would fit, but def not a 15.... and welcome!

okay sounds like i'll be doing a t-line then. Sub and port down towards the floor? I said a 10" or 12" wouldn't rock harder because I'm pretty sure 2 8"s would have more cone area, but if a 12" in a big t-line will rattle my whole dorm, that'll be the route i'm going. I'm on a high-school kid budget, so I guess we'll see where i go with my components. I'm doing an entire setup, so i also need money for amps, head unit, mids and highs and crossovers....

What do you guys think could shake the hell out of my dorm? I'm in the basement at a far corner, and I want the kids upstairs to be complaining if i ever crank it all the way up. Right now I'm thinking about doing 2 tang band 8" woofers tuned to about 34 with subs up ports back (sub box will be going under my desk) and about 200 watts per woofer. Would a single 10" or 12" rock harder? Obviously not, but these woofers like small boxes; small to the point where you can't make the box big enough for the required port. Any thoughts?

holy 30s batman! Those are 30s on that yukon, right? holy cow....

liked. where's my 72 virgins?

never seen a quiet exhaust chopped in front of the axle, but why not try some sound deadener?

pics of these hats? I'm def interested

PARTS LIST SO FAR: (2) Tang Band W8-740P 8" subwoofers (1 Pair) Pyle Wave PLX462 4"x6" Coaxial Speakers American Legacy LA660 4x110 watt amp Boss CX350 4ch 400 watt amp What should i use to control everything? Car HU? should i get an equalizer, or just use one if the HU has one?

I plan on playing music, gaming, and listening to movies with this setup. I have other designs that have the woofer and port right next to each other, but i like the specific size of this box the best... i don't think cancellation should be too big of a problem in my dorm room though

trailer....

thanks man. i didn't know about the tuning up, but now i do remember hearing that subs in a t-line will hit an octave below the tuning of either the box or the sub, not sure which....

holy shit... now I'm thinking about just doing a DC powered amp and just using an inverter, but will that give me enough constant power w/o voltage drop or anything? I'm only thinking about doing like 200-300 watts for these subs. Ill throw up pics and specs of the box I'm thinking about as of right now in a bit

mad sexy. anyone have thoughts on those tang band woofers? i heard Sundown is also having a sale on their SA-8s though... opinions?

thanks man looked like some great work!

hahaa sounds pretty much like what i want to be doing!

holy cow that sounds like wayyyy too much power for me....what'd that system cost? PM on the way... and yes, I want to be the loudest in my dorm at least, and being at a boarding school, all the kids here have store-bought 2.1 systems with big woofers. I wana show 'em how the big boys play

I want to build a smallish box for my dorm room this year and want to know what kind of woofers would be good. I want them to hit low as hell, but I don't need a whole lotta power, and definitely am on a budget. So far my best idea is 2 8" Tang Band W8-740P woofers in a box tuned to 33hz. also need help on finding quality plate amps... thanks!

Hey all, I've been thinking about designing a smallish t-line to go into my dorm room for quite some time now. I plan on using a 6.5" Tang Band woofer, the specs of which are: Frequency range: 38-800 Hz • Fs: 38 Hz • SPL: 83 dB 1W/1m • Vas: 0.416 cu. ft. • Qms: 2.65 • Qes: 0.47 Qts: 0.40 • Xmax 13 mm • Dimensions: Overall diameter: 7", Cutout diameter: 5-1/2", Depth: 3-5/8". According to my calculations, I would need about 28 sq. in. of port and a line length of 97.5" for tuning of 36hz. My main questions are; should I bother adjusting the line length to tune the box up by just 2hz, or is 36 going to be close enough? Also, I've seen and read a lot about adding a sort of dampening material throughout half of the line; is this actually necessary/required in order to have proper response, or is it just an extra step that someone more experienced would take in order to get everything they possibly can out of their setup? Lastly, I'm open to any constructive criticism of my box, so what do you guys think? Sorry for the long read, now here's the box:

meh, was expecting a sub breaking a bottle or something... cool i guess

i jizzed a lot.... damn that engine bay is gorgeous. mad props to the owner

great cause, sexy as hell paint job. not lovin the rims but again I'm not hatin. verry nizzee

blown by girlfriend, no lightbulbs, forgot where I left my virginity lol.... both meaning sex and girl, but really does that matter?