crispy_chick3n

Amazon.com: B2 Audio 4v 10 Channel DSP with Bluetooth iOS/Android App 96 KHz - 32 Bit : Electronics b2 audio makes a super affordable dsp. I haven't personally used this one, but the reviews seem to be mostly positive toward it

Amazon.com: KENWOOD eXcelon Reference DMX1057XR 10.1" Digital Multimedia Bluetooth Car Stereo with USB, 10.1" Floating Touchscreen HD Display, AM/FM HD Radio, Double DIN, Apple CarPlay or Android Auto, SiriusXM : Electronics ^^^^Best of the best in my opinion. I have installed both of the radios you have mentioned as well as this Kenwood unit and the Pioneer and Sony don't even come close. The Kenwood is a floating 10" screen, and it is pricey, but damn is it a nice unit. It also has Garmin nav built in so when you don't feel like hooking your phone up for android auto/ apple car play, you are still good to go with nav.

I'd say test them out and make sure they work, and if they do then use them. If you plan to go that route you just want to match whatever speakers/ sub you plan to get with the output of those amps. No reason not to use good equipment if you have it just sitting around. Hell, I have a pair of Rockford punch 201s amps in my ride running my tweeters. I had them laying around and they were the perfect power rating for the number of tweets I'm running.

give the retractors their own little "enclosure". kind of like a bowl or a box under them and then seal that enclosure to the bottom of the deck would be my best guess on how to do it. pictures would for sure help if you get around to posting them.

the axxess website does not list having any compatible products for your car. you have to go down to a 23 santa fe to see anything, and when you do the dsp kit is hk4 instead of hk5. you might be stuck until they confirm compatibility or come out with a kit that works for your car. beyond that you would be limited to line out converters. if you want to have a dsp id recommend audiocontrol. the dm608 or dm810 both do line out conversion as well with the dsp.

does your car have the factory jbl system?

pin 85- ground pin 86- switched +12v (remote from radio) pin 87- outputs to amps pin 87a- nothing (insulate for safety) pin 30- Fused +12v from battery

run a dedicated circuit for the fans to isolate them from your stereo. you can still use the remote wire to turn them on, but you will want to run a relay to give proper power to the fans. it could also be interference from the motors of the fans. as they spin, they create a magnetic field, and if the fan is close enough to RCAs that don't have the best shielding it could be introducing noise into the signal.

there are several factors that will determine how much port area you need. the linked topic goes more in depth with figuring out how much area you will need for your setup.

if im understanding correctly it would be like you left one coil unhooked from the amp so you were blasting the remaining coil with all the power. as long as they ohm out fine and they dont make any funny noises you are probably fine. just hook it up the right way and let it rip.

the problem with doing that is you are only spinning the alt while the car is moving. so, if you are sitting still and jamming on the stereo, it would basically be like the car was shut off. still going to be draining the batteries.

lol a little late is a bit of an understatement. this thread is over 17 years old. you should be just fine side firing that sub, for sure with the bracing

also, there's only a small handful of people who still regularly browse this forum, your answer was stated above. start at the radio and work your way back toward the amps, tuning in order that they are hooked up

I stand corrected, lc7 does not have crossover. not sure what AudioControl I was thinking of lol. however, with that lc7 you can for sure use splitters, or a rca distro to get your extra rcas. since you have control of the signal voltage (within reason) you can bump it up a smidgen if splitting creates an input voltage drop.

you would want to match the lc7 output voltage to what your amps input voltage can handle. after that use the dd1 to tune the amps. also i would get rid of the ppi external crossover as the lc7 has crossover, as well as your amps have a crossover built in. its redundant, another place for failure to occur, and honestly not necessary.

you are suposed to set crossovers after setting gain. in the manual of the dd-1 it tells you to disable any crossovers before setting gain. try turning off crossovers and redo the tuning

that cxa 1800.1 should get the job done with those subs. what kind of box are they in? what vehicle? what kind of electrical upgrades do you have done to the vehicle?

its been a couple years since ive installed one of these, but if i remember correctly there isnt really a gain adjustment on the dm608, i believe its a volume level control. i would start at the HU find your max clean. id turn the dm608 all the way up with the EQ flat. go to one of the amps, if the amp is all the way turned down you should still get a clean signal on the dd1. if you dont then im probably wrong.

i was wondering what you were up to... been a while since we have seen a new product. you always have something in the works. looks good tho for real. id pick one up if i had a use for it. so when can we expect some SMD battery terminals? lol

fuckin titty sprinkles.........

what vehicle is it in. might be on the limits of the stock alt.

Thanks bud, granted i havent checked it again since(approx 1pm). Left the meter at work so do know if its changed or not. the charging voltage will change depending on the temp of the alt. a cold alt will charge at a higher voltage than a warm alt. so if in your picture the truck hadnt been running and had enough time to cool down, then it is a cold alt. after running for a few minutes the charging voltage should drop a little bit.

you know you can sell a testicle over seas for like $25k... ill be back in a couple weeks, i expect my amp will be built and ready by then?

this bitch wont leave.................