Jump to content

J.Reed

Members
  • Posts

    144
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by J.Reed

  1. I personally would go with the XL. In fact I did lol and for the reasons above. Being able to upgrade power would be a very nice added feature. Again purly opinion and just that. I have NEVER tested the lvl 4. Good luck either way ya go.
  2. I have not tested them side by side to tell you, but adding some enclosure specs might help other that have. On a guess I would say the XL. Higher motor force and higher sensitivity. Again this is PURELY a guess.
  3. Todd does great work (HIGH priced) and SQ based, but some of these other guys can do as good if not better in certain areas. What kind of work are you looking to get done? If SPL look at some of the other guy
  4. AQ HDC3 aluminum coil would fit the bill, but some of the above choices are just as nice for a spl setup.
  5. Would be small on net at like 4.5 per doing 3. That Would help with power handling some and you will be at a higher impedance than running all 4. So it could work, but I think your on the best track going walled. once you get it sorted I KNOW you are going to have some fun with it this summer lol
  6. If you wanna keep the 2nd row you could wall at the c pillar possibly. Port area would be the concern here because of so much surface area going to the subs. Another option would be Doing 2 in a sub up, port back config. You would have spares for if something should happen None the less walled will be fricking sweet. If I could give up the 2nd row I would be walled already, but my ride still takes the family out and about quite a bit lol. Good luck with the build man! keep us posted.
  7. Not offended at all. Just don't wanna see you WAIST money when you could see better results going with a more optimal route. No way in hell 4 18s will fit in my 05 Navi unless walled or losing 2nd row. Unless it was a cramped waist of time and effort enclosure lol. Thats why I opted for 15s. I could give them an optimal enclosure, go non-walled and has a cone advantage over 2 18s which was the next alternative that fit well. I can trick all day and do over 153db Usaci outlaw style on just one 3500d. So very similar power and basically the same vehicle with DC XLs.
  8. IM running 4 15s, subs up port back in a Navigator on ONE 3500d.1. Don't know how thats not similar. Less cone and power at that. Hair tricks are no problem at all. I could do hair tricks with 2 L7 15s and only two ZX1000.1s in the same vehicle. As I said before the enclosure will make or brake you. If you have the larger newer expedition you "might" be able to fit 4 18" subs up port back with 2nd row still in, doubt it, but walled or going to 15s would be even better. I also designed a box for 2 18s in a 4 Runner on 1800rms that can trick all day long. Subs up port back. Again Enclosure WILL make or brake you. If you cram 4 18s with low net and port area its not going to do half as good as doing an OPTIMAL enclosure to what FITS the vehicle. 4 18s and 5k power is more then enough if designed correctly ie enclosure that works well with the equipment or could also be the biggest waist. Sometimes less is more.
  9. i was helping him in another thread and this depth leaves 7-9 inches between the port and the door ( i have the same body style burbsn too) i told him this would work good only thing i dont have is sub disp. or bracing disp. withch either wont be much. Without going to look to see for sure. I remember sub displacement being around .23ish
  10. They maybe different then the Navi. Mine had a 3rd row. With it gone and a fake floor in its place i get a whopping 16.5 cube gross matching the 2nd row seat angle to gain there and matching seat height at 17.75" tall. I only have 6 inches from box to the back hatch wall. Going taller cuts the airflow forward and IMP rise is higher too. So finding 8 more cubes just to get ideal net? Then displacements? Not going to happen without a wall or losing 2nd row. Unless as i said it is different then the navi with is the same thing with a different badge lol
  11. Isn't the expedition the same size as the navigator? Planing on keeping the 2nd row? If so subs up port back is not going to work worth a crap with 18s. Not enough space to do it in a optimal enclosure. Go walled or go 15s. BTW I was able to hairtrick with 2 L7s 15s and only 2 zx1000.1s out of my Navigator. My Xl 15s do pretty nice now. Enclosure will make or break you.
  12. 5 cubes is right on the money for what I liked with mine for output and sound. Might I suggest a slightly lower tune though like 32hz ish. Depends on what kinda sq.in of port as well. 12-14 per is fine with L7s. Not a whole lot of Xmas. I think those burbans with a sub up port back config like to peak around 38Hz in the kick outlaw style. If your doing any metering is should work better a bit lower IMO. 35hz is fine for just listening to. I liked mine there, but my truck also peaks at 43hz so it was ideal for my setup.
  13. cept you got lvl 4 and mojo mixed up.. From the guy that has only tested the mojo .... Just sayin have you even ever seen or heard a lvl 4? I hardly even see lvl 4s on here, its always 4s with 5s soft parts or XLs. only heard XLs, but most ppl on here that say dc ftmfw have never even heard dc or the brand its versed against. True, but also you cant say the mojo is the better choice. I cant say DC for 100% is and I have used BOTH brands. Both the Mojo and M3s from Memphis and the XL which is not the same as a lvl4. I can say the build quality of the DC XL is hands down better then the Memphis stuff IMO. I would lean towards the DC. I got 2 M3 12s and a mcd1000 that have just been setting on my floor for 2 years and were only used for 3mo. If that says anything. Willing to sell them cheap too
  14. I enjoyed the other thread name better lol. Kept me from clicking play on the vid
  15. Since there are two different kinds of mojo m3 or c3 I've heard it called both and then the cm cast. The cmcast is better than the c3 or m3. So would the w6be better than the m3 I know AMI customs has used both the M3 (older ones and the w6. I have used both the mojo and m3, but only heard w6. Im using the XLs now and really like them so far, much better then the Memphis stuff i have used infact, but not really the same sub as a lvl 4.
  16. cept you got lvl 4 and mojo mixed up.. From the guy that has only tested the mojo .... Just sayin have you even ever seen or heard a lvl 4?
  17. We have clapped the aq3500s and it does more then rated. 9200rms for a pair at 10.5 volts 1.7ohms strapped if I remember right. As for birth sheets LOL. Marketing BS. real world numbers, voltage and loads is the only way to truly bench.
  18. Till you get an o-scope to truly find the actual clipping point you can use the 75% rule. Turn the deck up to about 75% of max. That should give you a pretty hot but unclipped signal. Then you can tune in your amps using this as your new MAX volume setting for the deck.
  19. Ok so I remembered just a tad off. Still and inaudible difference though
  20. 8k at 12.5V to be exact lol. Real world testing has been showing higher But to the op. the 20k is a straight out power amp. The aq3500d.1 at 8600 14.4V which we have clamped over 9k at a 2ohm load strapped at 10.5V will put out close to the power and do so more musically IMO.
×
×
  • Create New...