Freshman6969

since its gunna be really nice out id figure id put my headliner back in and try and figure out the best way to keep my box from moving around wile im driving, it also tends to walk it self on decaf/bigpimpin , so whats the best way to go about doing it? heres my box, amps are on the back of the box and the battery is layed down right under the AQ, like so.... also right where you see the ground going under the box, that panel is removeable, but its plastic, and its not really that accessable on any side really

I found 20 1/0 terminals on ebay for $16 shipped link?

02 jeep GC laredo battery is on pass. side, ran it along the drivers side, so it goes around the engine bay, drilled a hole in the firewall the size of the wire, fuck gromets im guesstimating about 20ish feet got to the back, the second batt is on the pass. side big three was like 7 or 8 feet I THINK ( i bought the wire off CACO precut and terminaled ) just a tip to anyone, dont crimp with a vice or pliers and a hammer, shit falls off real quick hence i need terminals on the cheapppppppppppp

its a lvl 4 motor with lvl 5 soft parts, not sure which exactly changes, but i run 2 on a AQ3500 just fine, 7 cubes

i havent played that damn game in YEARS! i still have my old card somewhere...

id say rims, just my guess, and youll be good with that 2200 on the xl, would take more power though

big 3 yes, cap NO! a cap will do damage to your system, and it will never ever replace a battery .....what

he cant put that on a shirt lol, i mean he could but itd be a better choice not to imo

ill be pming you soon, throwing in my order for all 3 shirts whats the coloring on em?

when are these gunna be avail.? i want all 3

really pulled together nicely meade, i wasent with it at first but now im in love

mother fucking dwright...... this summarizes my feelings... anyway when are they available to order? what ever they are i want some! this also deserves to be on the fail boat....

damn ric that looks awesome

it happens, you just gotta get the hang of it really, i did a wire the power wire in my car with pliers and 2 batterys stacked on top of eachother and the pliers between them, like bum said, you gotta move the heat around, cuz if you keep direct heat on it its just gunna melt the jacket

i THINK techforce is around that area, as well as some more of my team, theyll probably chime in

if im not mistaken your car sucks to do. diode isolate on the door triggers if not using the dome light for door trigger and there might be soemthing else with resistors its been so long since ive done one. i hated chrysler vehicles though. oh fun, i might just wait till i get a new car, i have the stock alarm but its not really that great, sigh, but idk why chrysler is ass fucking backwards with there shit, only easy thing they did in my jeep was the damn single panel i have to pop off to get to my h/u, other then that its all types of fucked up, like for example, if i open my back door as far as it can go, the interior lights shut off, but once i close it just a lil bit from fully open the interior lights click back on? fail, i refuse to even attempt putting in an alarm until i am cerified to do it lol, i have like dyslexia kinda, but just not messing up words really

15 volts i think? idk but i gotta say those are nice nice nice nice nice amps!, ill hear this at the show on the 27th hopefully, get some tuning done nick!

as a cabinet maker of 12 years i am one of the very few here who are qualified to even think about your question..... id say go for it. the enclosure will have a far superior resonance and tonal response than mdf, and be stronger as well, as long as you do your joints correctly. i am very interested in seeing what you come up with. for a stiff enclosure, hickory would be optimal. for tonal response, poplar is great. birtch does the trick too

what years your cherokee? and lol @ the guy telling you his alt did 230 @ idle on a 240 lmfao

those are 15's right? and a orion 2500? whats your box tuned to?

i was thinking about picking up an alarm for cheap since 6th ave electronics is moving to another town from here, so all there shit is priced low, 250 or less for a 2 way + remote viper alarm, which is on the cheap side, but a majority of the shops income comes from alarms, hence thats the first thing they ask when hiring, and hence im going to school for it lol

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15" xl right? dual leads gave it away

ouchy, that looks like quite a project right there, move the whole board if possible then just disable the screen? just enough to fit that h/u in there, or why not use a single din? might be easier to work with

what gauge