JMZNeal

love it... best head ever... lol... it's got 5v preamps dvd player... very good touch screen minus the vol part. i hate having to scroll around in a circle to make the vol go up/down. i just use my remote and 3sixty knob for vol

Thank you.... i appreciate it.. now i will have enough for what i want to start off with for sure... YOU ARE THE MAN ANT... the man with the jolly belly and rosey cheeks

That's back when amps were rated with true watts though. Funny but very iconic. Love the vid. Thankyou for posting it. I was running 14's on 50's up til a week ago lol(no rubber for my 18's).... now 18's on 40's.... Think what will be cool 10-15 more years down the road though

LOL... that dude had no clue what was about to happen to him... he was holding his ears like it was just going to be a little loud then when it hit he palmed his head and started freaking out... to bad he tapped out i was waiting for the windows on the building to flex oh well... tap outs are always funny though...

ANT wait... free handouts... [email protected]... what ever you send as a sample might make the difference in "done" and "Damnit, I alomst had enough"... lol... Hit your email up... Let me know...

just spent $62.81 after shipping on a 20Ft pack of it... beats the hell out of $69 before shipping for a 13ft pack of Dynomat... THANK YOU... think 20ft will do 2doors and roof of single cab Ranger? Some where said 5ft per door so i'm thinking that will only do inner and outter door skins right? another 20ft or so would do roof and floor and what's left of my back wall? lol i'm just excited i finally ordered sound dampening... Makes me feel like a real basshead...

A+ love it...

i under stand what your saying about the pan hard bar. and wide means as long as possible (larger dia. arch) with the mounts wide..far side of axle and as close to frame as possible. not mounted half way down axle and inside of frame. i have little more offset 18's on it now.. more clearance. Not really worried about extreme lift thought. just smooth ride and good handling. purpose of the rear bar is for compounding weight. lift may not be but 7-9 inches but smooth as a caddy. hopefully. edit: if i air way up i'll kick out to one side but not rolling fast. so it doesn't mean much to me.

why wouldn't i make the top one shorter slightly. it's for roll steer right? so one side doesn't go forward and one back when cornering. ??? idk. but that makes my job easier. Angle them to "meet/cross" at the front bumper and level the bottom link at ride height. That's what i've got so far... the dog bone is really just going to end up being like a rear hanger (two pieces of flat metal) and one bushing off the axle and one off the bag lift bar...so figuring the lenght will be as easy as drilling holes and moving it.. don't work try again. get it right build a pretty set... Pan hard is going to be so wide i won't even have .3inch l/r travel so once i get it set so it's as far as i want it to one side all down and in the middle at ride height it won't rub... my other option is a watts link and i don't want to spend that much more money. No triangles no wishbones. behind axle is only for batts.. gas tank stays put.. i mean raised... and muffler ocupies other side of axle. Thank you for your input... this really is a dead area in the SMD world. Not much to talkabout in this area huh???

congrats. Pretty little thing. He'll have a pimped out Power wheels Escalade or gocart w/ amp/sub i'm sure by the time he's in kindergarden. Hell yeah though.. I bet your proud!!!

mine is 45hz but i listen to everything. Rock, country, rap, techno.. what ever. it's pretty loud and gets pretty low but i'm going to redo the box at 40hz and see if i like it anybetter or worse. What's the deal with more or less cubes in the box? That's my hangup. Is bigger better or more effcient or smaller more punchy. Sorry if i'm thread jacking but maybe it'll help Vinny out some too.

if my volt meter gets below 13.1 i cut my shit down and that only happens when i get knob happy other wise i stay at 14.2-13.8 full tilt no clip. I'm running one stinger sp1200 one marine deep cycle in back and one burnt up titanium under the hood off a 130amp cop car alt on a 4cyl motor... throw more reserve cap in there.. if you have to just get a $79 marine deep cycle from Auto zone/Advanced/pepboys/where ever.. 185-190 min reserve cap with a 2year free replacement warranty. crappy batss i know but they will keep your voltage up longer and your alt will last longer or forever if you keep the batts charged. I burnt my stock 95amp alt out after 3 years of abuse and running dead batts

My stepdad did that shit to me last night about a guy with Auto-Tec 18's and a truck with a campershell..said it split the camper shell down the middle. He also said he used to have 2 12's off a 1500 and an 18 off a 2000 in his truck with a campershell. He's sat in mine and said it's to loud... he's from the old school though and I know for a fact he has no clue how to build boxes or run big enough wire or add batts or anything we call normal upgrades now. When we built a slanted truck box for my first ranger way back in '04 he tried to tell me the front baffle(angled) was the same length as the back piece(straight) give it it was only like a .5inch diff. ohh and he told me a story about a amp(as long as the coffee table)that was rated at 2000 but put out 3-4k and wasn't ready to sound good til it got to hot to touch... He said it would catch stuff on fire if it was mounted under anything or on carpet.... IDK apparently he's never heard of ohms either. lol

yeah classes... I'll do the pre show set up right i just need to know what to enter when I show up. I don't want to end up in a big boy's game with just 1000 watts at 142db if that.... I watched that vid before a made the post and then looked at all the Meca shows coming up in my area.... TN-NC-SC and want to go to at lest one or two this summer.

YouTubians unite.... found this and the description says any one that mentions Meade will be deleted and Banned.... His amp dies half way through and shits on him so i don't think getting banned would be so bad... I commented on Meade w/o saying his name... I think it's funny... Sounds like a PA system for show demos. Lots of mids/highs prob sound decent in person but IDK or care just wanted to share the link to see how many of us can get blocked.

I have two 12's and a 1000 watt amp. Single cab Ranger. 5cubic foot box tuned to 45hz. If i were to go to a sound comp what all could i do and be competitive in. Please describe the events too...I'm a re re....

image dynamic 6.5's from woofersect.com are 109 a set and sound really nice. ctx i think. I have a set of the first ones that he linked and they are awesome.. 169 is a hell of a price too. but budget get the second set of ctx. can't go wrong with ID period though

Don't worry I'm ditching the coax as soon as i can afford another set of ID 6.5's and i will be deadening the doors at the same time. No tweets in my truck. All horns on highs. I need to re eq the 360.2 when I get the mids worked out. Right now I have to run the horns louder than the mids to keep the blown speaker from rattling. but if It wasn't hooked up I loose all my mids.... mostly because of deadening and power issues from the boss amp....Stfu i know it sucks but it's all i had laying around when i needed one. I've blew 2 sets of speakers so far from moister. Foam baffles filled up with water and blew these 6x8's threw them son's of bitches away. 10 bucks for a water cup... and the power 6x8 components I had in stock location behind seat go wet several years ago. ???? no clue on that one... and some how i've blew 2 sets of RF punch 2way6x9's... bass probably since my deck didn't band pas them... Now my 360 band passes all my speakers for me MORE PICS coming soon but with better shit in them and less holes here's a few random old pics some are shopped though but only of body work and making it lower than it really is I've redo my gauges since this one when i put in elec valves and extra gauge. This was back in 06-07 when i thought i was going to drift around a corner in the snow. Front wheels hanging off a 30 ft drop to a creek. Had to take off roll pan so the two truck could pull me out oh yeah and i traded the Paw paw shell for my tat of my truck on my ribs...

I got room. It'll only be .25" l/r travel with 10-12 inches of lift. My 18's have that on either side as is. I figured the polys were fine. I'm doing a Ranger so the links will be shorter than the kit and building it myself will only cost me 700 vs 1700 with the KP components kit in the pic. I don't want to do a 3link wishbone cuz i don't want to have to cut up the bed or move the gas tank or anything like that. Call me lazy i guess. Any tips on running the 4link to give me good handling/tire loading/roll center any of that. I have the understanding that it has to do with the angle of the bars(not exactly parallel) and length (one longer one shorter) and position of pan bar. I'm thinking drag car set up i guess cause that's what i've been around all my life but I want cornering capability too? Edit: And i would never use hiems...well the suicide doors pan hard has one on one end but i can live with that. I've been doing some research. At what angle should I place the 4 link bars? The panhard bar? How critical are the angles? We typically try to place the lower bars level at ride height. This will minimize "roll steer" (slight wheelbase change caused by the arc of the bars going through their travel). The upper bars should also be level, or slightly down at the front if need be. This configuration will provide stable handling and braking characteristics. It is important to get the bars exactly the same from side to side to avoid unpredictable handling problems. It is also extremely important to make sure the panhard bar is level at your highway ride height. This will minimize side travel of the rear axle induced by the arc of the panhard bar going through its travel. Obviously there are precise formulas for placement of the 4 link bars to maximize certain performance criteria, but these performance differences are quite small on a road car. Put the bars in level, or close to it, at ride height, and you'll be fine. And minitruckin has given me hope that it's not as hard as i thought as long as i do some math and measurements before I weld a universal link kit on. The canti rear bars and the dog bone lengths are my last concern but i think after i make a scale drawing and AutoCadd it I will be fine.

K. I'm tired of being ghetto and not having good ride quality and handling. I have mono leaf rear with bags below and behind the axle. Works fine but hops on burnouts and doesn't ride the way I think it should. I was thinking two link w/ bags on bars but heard that they have almost no roll center due to the fact that they are rigidly mounted to axle. But would super pivot ends help any? And I've been wanting this: and can build it for less than 1/2 what it sells for. But it looks like it has rubber bushings. When I build it would it make a big difference if i used rubber bushings or the super pivots. I'm not going to three wheel. or hit side to side hard. I just want good handling with as little suspension fighting back as possible as cheaply as I can do it. Rubber bushing: This is $60 Super pivot: This is $120 Edit: Oh and I'm not going to cut up the bed except for the tubs and axle tunnel. The Tank/compressor/and valves are going on either side of the speaker box. Gas tank is staying put just raised or sectioned to clear frame. and behind the axle/panhard is going to be a Meade style battery compartment. the rest of the bed is going to be clean and amped up.

my GF amp does the same thing only it never cuts off. The relay in the power block [+rem-] has arced and fused together. If you can take the cover off and seperate the little tiny metal strip that gets magnetized when the rem wire is hot it should fix it.... Theoretically that is. It works when i do that to regular relays all the time. IDK how easy it is to get to yours though. REPAIR shop def. She just takes the fuse out of her amp though. It's a craptastic kenwood 600.2 though. She has to pull it to keep her bat charged of course. I can't get into her power block to fix it with out pulling the whole board of the chassis.

painting is the way to go if you can't carpet worth a f*** like me. Well Carpet is easier than Vinyl. I like textured paint and truck bed liner and vinyl. Reg carpet is last/cheapest resort for me.

If i wasn't so indecisive i'd be tatted up. I just got my second one 2.5years after my first. Looks good. Good artist. Good sized arms for it too...lol sorry that sounded gay. I'm to skinny for arm tats though I think. Maybe that's why I can't find anything I like. Not enough room.....

lovin it. Air makes the ride so much better. Don't know how you did it so long without it

I love the pounding in your chest, The snares and mids that kick like a shotgun going off, high hats that ring your ears, and watching ppl turn their head from down the block thinking it was the beater 2-3-400 yards in front of me and when I pass they can't believe it's a single cab ranger making the ground wiggle under their feet. I really want a lower tuned box but i don't wanta give up my 45 and up range. Rock and country are the best head turners. More power i guess