UnderLoK

Thanks guys! So to play devils advocate that would mean that if I fuse bus to bus at let's say 1200a and a wire shorts out (grounds out) they will pop no matter what (the D34's can do like 3000a) or should I be fusing at my max draw of 600a across the bus? Just to reiterate, I'm just looking to fuse my wires in the back of the truck using as little space as possible and this seemed like the best option.

Bumpage...

The D3100's are around 110aH so just take your load (490a per amp or 980a total) and multiply that by play time. If you want 30 minutes total (I believe the aH runs the battery down to 30%) then you need 450-500aH of battery (4-5 D3100's). That's my understanding anyways...

As you make the opening bigger it will raise the frequency and as you add port depth it will decrease it.

If you run one big amp you either need to run at .5ohms or 2ohms and since most put out at 1ohm you would have to go way bigger to get 3500 a side at 2ohms (you can run .5, but running daily that low isn't the best idea). You're more than likely better off strapping 2 amps.

haha no problem man, at least the subs aren't screwed up

How many amps are displaced if one of my lines was to short out? Obviously I don't understand what happens during a short circuit so it leads me to the following... I ask this seemly simple question because I have 4 1/0 power runs from the front bus (1 D3400 and 2 270a alts) to the back which are fused to 300a each (below wire rating) in the front of the truck. They then in turn will go to a positive bus in the rear which will then be fused to another positive bus that carries the other batteries (2 D3400) and amplifiers (the 1/0 runs to the amps are individually fused at 300a as this is max draw for each amp). In this bus to bus connection what should it be fused to and is doing it this way still safe? The only reason I'm thinking of doing this bus to bus fusing is because of space. Space in my truck is a constant issue and bus to bus fusing fits as to where 4 1/0 blocks do not. I guess what this whole thing boils down to is my lack of understanding as far as how many amps could be displaced in my application if the line shorts out (100? 500? 3000?) and if it's instantaneous or if it builds over time. Knowing that would obviously give me a better understanding of the danger (if any) involved in fusing this way. Thanks guys!

Try ebay, many of the ANL fuses are under $1.00 to $2.00 at dealer cost so as a general rule ebay usually runs at 100% over their cost rather than 1000% like many brick and mortar places (Best Buy actually has a couple around $7 I think). If you want to pay 10x more than they did sure... Last time I checked at Car Tunes (biggest place around Detroit) they want $10-$14 per fuse which they pay just over a dollar for.

Steve's port is shallow compared to most, but not that shallow and the port itself is massive (WxH). You need to extend it as others have said and make it much larger. Don't sweat the screwup, post up what the box is braced with, how thick the mdf is, and the displacement of those subs and people can give you better suggestions. I've seen worse, there is a guy on here who just cut a random hole in his box. At least you tried to tune it

It should be close to 4ohm. Odds are it won't be spot on, but close. You say 1 set per channel, what exactly do you mean? You can't do 2ohm "per set per channel"... A 4DVC sub goes down to 2ohm and if you put 2 together you either get 1ohm or 4ohm. If you put them ALL together you can get 2ohms, but on a single channel (or bridged 2 channel).

Aco, ACE, Home Depot, Lowes, any hardware store really... Just ask for rubber bushings.

Don't check them while they are hooked up to the amp. If they weren't it's either your DMM or they are starting to burn up.

It's fine...

Hell yea!

As others have said get an AGM battery that fits (while everyone recommends XS which I also run, truth is get the best one you can afford). The main problem with going with an acid in the rear is those batteries do NOT like quick charge and discharge. When that happens they start to heat up and emit acid gas which is toxic. If the load is too high they can also boil over and smoke like crazy. You want your 1/0 run fused under the hood close to the front batt and IF you run a battery in the rear fused there as well. This way if the wire grounds out in the middle it will go dead. If you only fuse the one side the front fuse will blow and the rear battery will keep power going to the rest of the wire. If you don't run a rear battery, then 1 fuse is fine. The whole 4g thing is debatable. Will it work? Yes... But the reason you don't want to do it is because the run would have to be fused on either side of it which would cost more than 1 1/0 wire that will fit. Reason being if one of those 4g wires short out (4g melts down at less than half the amps 1/0 does) or one disconnects somehow that wire that is left connected will have way too many amps running through it, it will melt down, and could cause a fire. If it were me and I was short on loot... I would leave the stock battery where it is, get an AGM for the rear. Get 1/0 to run front to rear (one run no patch work bs) and use that left over 1/0 you have for runs to the amp, from fuses to battery, and if I had any left I would use it for big 2 (battery to frame and frame to alternator).

Man I was 187-190lbs of muscle at my peak (5'8" as well) back when I was 19-20 (peak), but when I started partying that all went down the tube. Most of it turned to fat, but around 24 I lost it all and have been sitting around 150-155 since. I can't even imagine working out that much ever again, it just took up too much time, but while I was doing it I loved it... One of those love/hate kinda things, at least for me, keeping it up was easy, starting was the PITA. Either which way mad props man, it takes some serious dedication to keep up that kind of mass. Now days I would just like 165 with a 2/4 pack and I would be happy.

You need to remove the RCA's, power it on and see if the hum still exists. If it does it's your ground, if it doesn't it's your RCAs. The pop could be related, but it could also be from your remote turning on your amps too soon or not enough power or... You might need to go with a relay.

Dude OnStar came out in like 96 or something... I think it came as an option for S10/Blazer in 98.

Maybe the second clip is for OnStar?

I swapped my Iraggi's for Mechman not too long ago. The NUMBER 1 reason I went with them is Matthew hands down. If you have a problem and call (or leave a message) he is there and highly knowledgeable. If you're on the fence call and see what he has to say, he won't bs you. They use high quality parts and not some junk oem crap from overseas or used junk parts from old alternators (not saying anyone in particular does, just saying they don't use junk as a general statement). My last alt was ordered on a Monday here by Wednesday.

What kind of amp do you have? Also what is the alternator grounded to? You should have battery to frame and alt to frame (2 isolated runs).

Where is it held (at that addresses or across the street or)? Do we have to be quiet (as in we have to keep it down in the parking lot)? If I drive down and we have to keep it down because guys are on the TL 40ft away I think I'll pass. No offense intended, I would just hate to come all the way down there and people are all getting bent over guys beating it up in the lot. edit: typo

2:1 is garbage (600RPM at idle means 1200 at the alt which means very few amps), they need to spin as close to 1.8k-2k as you can get it). You need to measure it. At 6200 rpm (don't say never because if you floor it one day and your alt does 25,000 RPM it will blow up) you need a 3-3.2:1 ratio which will give you 1860RPM at idle. Alts vary, but for GM alts you never want to pass 20k at the alternator. Also is your alt grounded directly to the frame? You can also use the strut tower if you need a closer location. Don't ignore the pulley, if it's 2:1 your output amps at idle are going to suck.

Nice! One thing though, it could be the camera, but they look out of phase or a wire came loose or something. Might be worth checking the load with a DMM and make sure they are both still wired up right. Looking good though!

Looking good man, but if the camera isn't distorting it isn't loud enough With your 280a the volts should be dropping when you go full tilt. The car and one 3000 can burn through that 280a alone. You should figure 50a for the car which leaves 230a for the amps or 115a each which is less than half of your full draw. It's not a bad thing, you just need to keep an eye on the voltage, but there should be a drop. If you don't see one at all then your amps are turned way down and it will go louder or you need to move your volt meter to those rear batteries.