Autruche

I wanted to go with ATT 3 years ago, but the bastards wanted to bend me over for a $500 security deposit.

*cough* Meade *cough* J/K

I use a program called Format Factory. It converts just about any media and is fairly simple to use. I mainly use it for shrinking picture sizes for my build logs. You can get it here

With the limited placement space in a civic, I would just do the stepdown and be done with it. As for battery bank grounding, ground them directly to the alternators. 2 runs of positive and 2 runs of negative for each alternator, you'll see the most stable voltage that way.

When the Saab is done, I will be doing option 2. One stock alt for stock stuff and stereo, and 2 220 amp alts just for my system. As for the remote wire, everything will have a common ground, all the remote wire does is turn the amp on, it can be at stock voltage. If you are worried about it, just run the remote line into a relay that is hooked up to your battery bank and you'll be good to go.

Bare minimum, use a circular saw that has angle adjustments and clamp a board down nice and solid for a guide, You'll ruin more pieces of wood by trying to do angles with a jigsaw than you'll actually make.

First of all, do you know how the warhorse works? It's way different than any other amp. You can't look at your subs as being DVC you need to look at it as a SVC. If you have a D2 coil, when you think of the warhorse, you look at the sub as a S2 coil. The warhorse is in a way a 2 channel amp. I can explain farther if you don't know how it works.

My friend has that head unit. It's pretty damn nice for the money. The USB is kinda slow to load, but the SD card is really fast and it still looks clean when you have an SD card in it. Not sure what it sounds like running speakers though, cuz he has a 4 channel for the speakers.

Do you mean 14 square inches of port total or per cube?

I love my Xentec ones, I have two pairs of ballasts and a set of 10,000K bulbs, a set of 8,000K bulbs and two sets of 6,000K bulbs. I'm going with DDM for my next ones though, because I want 55W kits, and Xentec doesn't make them.

You can check these out: http://www.knukonceptz.co.uk/ Good for wiring stuff http://www.crescendoaudio.com/home.php Nice amps on the cheap, cheap component sets http://www.sundownaudio.com/ Great products https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154c337dea90c8b/shopdata/index.shopscript Fi, undeniably good woofers http://www.ddaudio.com/ Amazing subs and amps, but not cheap http://www.dcsoundlab.com/ Great woofers, great customer service http://www.audiosavings.com/index.aspx Damn good products at damn good deals http://www.atomicspeakers.com/ Some nice woofers http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/ Nice woofers, newer company http://www.t3audio.com/core.mdv Solid woofers http://www.ascendantaudio.com/ Damn good woofers http://www.stetsom.com.br/eng/Produtos.aspx Nice powerful amps http://4xspower.com/ Some of the best batteries you can find http://www.audioque.com/aq/ Great stuff on the cheap http://www.woofersetc.com/ Decent site http://mechman.com/store/index.php Damn good high output alternators http://www.incriminatoraudio.com/update/index.php Beasty subs http://impulse-electronics.com/terminals_splices.aspx?sub_key=&id=91&cat_nm=10&key=Eyelet%20Terminals Super cheap terminals http://reaudio.com/woofers.html#goto_mt Good woofers http://www.cn-cactus-sounds.com/home.htm Great stuff if you have the money http://www.tcsounds.com/ Damn nice woofers http://www.americanbassusa.com/front/index.aspx Good woofers and amps http://jmhaudioconcepts.com/subwoofers.htm DAD subs http://www.soundstream.com/ Good modest priced stuff http://rdaudio.net/ Good amps

I'll tell you this, cone area is king. my friend has one 18 inch lvl 5 on 3200 watts and we met a guy that has the same power, but 4 15 inch kicker L7s (same vehicle even) and his was much louder than my friends.

X2, Rockford is great, but you can do better for less for subs. There are almost limitless combinations of audio equipment you can rock and be quite loud doing so. I can throw out a list of sites to check out if you want.

Build is lookin awesome and clean, but I have one question... Can I get some measurements of those CRX headlights? lol

I tried that, but it was too much guess work on how much solder was enough, I'd rather drill the hole and get it right every time.

Not all of us can afford the good stuff. A little work on my part to save over $30 for every 50 terminals I buy is worth it.

I can solder a lot of terminals before I come up to the cost of one of those, lol. But they do pay off and work great, I just prefer soldering.

You can use the jack method and it works relatively fast, but this is, as odd as it is to say it, safer. When doing it with the jack when the bead breaks loose the jack can fly off or the truck could fall down hard enough to either damage the jack or the jack could damage the truck. It works fine for standard tires but for meaty thick tires and rims, this is a better method.

You can buy the terminals here at a rather cheap price: http://impulse-electronics.com/terminals_splices.aspx?sub_key=&id=91&cat_nm=10&key=Eyelet%20Terminals But then you may be like "but solder slugs are so expensive..." and that is where this comes in. You have your standard slug terminal. And you drill a hole in it towards the top, and you get this. Then you can put it on your wire and solder it like a normal open-ended terminal, you just need to feed the solder though the hole and let it melt on the back. Hope you find this informational.

It is readily available, it's called "the install bay" "0 gauge" on ebay, lol. But seriously, you just need to run wire that can take the power those amps need, I'd go with real 0 gauge, fuse accordingly at 200-250 amps by the battery, and use a distribution block to bring it down to 4 gauge for both of the amps, and fuse them accordingly. Also, while you're at getting the right wire and fuses and fuse blocks, get an extra fuse and block and some extra wire and do the big three. These are good fuse blocks, I use them all the time, cheap and combined shipping ftw: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300417204547&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#shId Need some cheap ass terminals too? check here: http://impulse-electronics.com/terminals_splices.aspx?sub_key=&id=91&cat_nm=10&key=Eyelet%20Terminals

It's definitely not a tone generator too, that would be incredibly pointless, as a different head units put out different preamp voltages, making it being a tone generator would be completely useless. It seems relatively simple (in concept anyway), play a 40Hz tone for your subs and it looks for clipping, play a 1000Hz tone for your mids and it looks for clipping. Seems straightforward to me. I am interested if it will come with a disc with preloaded tones though, for teh n00bs.

that's fucking awesome, new trick for the next party now, thanks.

I once knew a man that was colorblind and worked as an electrician. I refused to have him wire anything up for me, I'll tell you that much, lol. He had no problem with it though, you just had to write the color and tape it on the red and green wires for him. As far as the dreaming goes: a dream is a reproduction of our perceptions. If you were born colorblind and can't see dark green, then you don't know what dark green looks like and will not see it in a dream. Or if you were born deaf, you won't hear things in a dream, so on and so forth. I just wonder if people that went blind later on in life see things in there dreams and get pissed off because of it.

Trust me, at first you think that it's ridiculous to spend that much on a scope, but you seriously get addicted to scoping everything. Plus after you get one you tune peoples amps for 10 bucks a pop and you make your money back.

If it's a reasonable price, then I'll be all over it, it'll hold me off until I can afford a TPI-440 =]