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Size of the sub has nothing to do with how low it will play. The fs of the sub has to do with how low the sub likes to play, but the most important factor is your box and tuning. For instance a box tuned to 38Hz will not hit the lows as good as a box tuned to 32Hz.

What coils do your subs have?

My parents have that exact same computer, they aren't too bad, but they come with almost no ram. I'd drop in 2 gigs of ram and throw in a decent video card like this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14-161-321&ReviewNo=1985991&SortField=0&Pagesize=10&IsFeedbackTab=true&rdm=4#scrollHelpful1 and you've got yourself a decent computer. I personally have this card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161315 and I like it. It's not a powerhouse but I can watch movies in 1080i and play new games in 720p with maxed settings fine on my 42 inch tv. Whatever way you want to go about it, you'll like using your tv as a monitor.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007709%20600031507&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&ShowDeactivatedMark=False&Order=PRICE&PageSize=20

If the tv doesn't have a VGA input, I would just use a VGA to composite(RGB) adapter for video with a 3.5mm to RCA adapter for sound if you just have onboard video as you aren't really going to see improvements in video quality unless you upgrade your video card, which is worth it if you watch HD movies or play games on your tv, then again I could be wrong, I've only ever done this twice. That's a good idea too.

I use my 42 inch LCD tv as a monitor. I just use a DVI to HDMI adapter, but no sound comes out through the HDMI, so I have to use a 3.5mm to RCA adapter too. My tv supports being hooked up like that, but some tvs don't. Using a VGA to HDMI connector will work if your tv supports having the audio plugged in separately, check the owners manual for that, you may be able to find it online if you don't have it to look at. Just found out they don't make those. Otherwise you can look for a VGA to RGB (composite) adapter like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812270322&cm_re=vga_adapter-_-12-270-322-_-Product Or you could get lucky and the tv might have a VGA input.

Different impedance loads will have different cutoff frequencies. For instance, with 4 ohm loads a 200 microfarad cuts at 200Hz a 320 would be about 150Hz a 400 will cut out at 100Hz and a 500 would be around 75Hz. Thanks for the links.

Interesting stuff. Where do you get your capacitors from? I've been having trouble trying to find ~400 and ~300 microfarad non-polarized capacitors to build my own bass blockers.

Don't wall it until you have equipment worth walling. If you do a wall and you get completely different equipment later on and have to tear down and rebuild your wall, you'll be kicking yourself, cuz a proper wall costs quite a bit.

Not Renault, Reliant. Still funny as hell though, I laughed my ass off the whole time. I love the BBC Top Gear, those guys are hilarious.

Sweet, I've been waiting patiently for this. I knew it would happen one day. Thanks!

Seriously dude, you start a thread, people try to help you, and you act like you're the shit and everyone else is stupid. I don't know how much longer you'll last here...

right click and select 'open in new tab' hold control when you click click the mouse wheel All of those will open the link in a new tab for a pc

personally for 310 bucks for woofers, I'd get two sets of these http://www.audiosavings.com/products/12-Inch-Car-Subwoofer/%283%29-RE-AUDIO-REX12D4-REX-12-D4-DVC-CAR-SUBWOOFERS-SUBS/%283%29+REX12D4.aspx instead of the pyles. 3 12s have almost the exact same cone area as a 21. Then put them on an AP 1800 or something cheap like that. series the coils, parallel the subs and get it down to a 1.3 ohm load. I dunno, just me. A 21 does have a wow factor that 3 12s don't though.

Nice numbers for only 1000 watts. If you're going to seal the trunk off, I'd do port on the driver's side, everyone says they get better numbers that way.

Anything past 3 dB of bass boost is risky business if you don't know how to set your stuff right. Bare minimum you should tune your amp with a dmm, if you don't have access to a scope. The cone/dustcap may not be warm, but the coil could have been jumping up to over 500 degrees, which will give you the coil smell. You are most likely clipping.

I have a set of Xentec 10,000K 9006 bulbs laying around that I don't need, the colors matched perfectly on the pair. If you want them at all I could see what the shipping for them would be.

What color were you looking for? and what bulb type?

With HID flickering there are a few causes and a couple solutions. The causes are 1) unstable voltage 2) bad ballasts 3) bad bulbs. The ways to fix it are with a relay harness (also known ans a battery harness) or an anti-flicker harness, which is just a small in-line capacitor, you can google that, quite easy to make. However, if you buy cheap HID products it will never go away. My advice is whatever company you've used before that has the best price/performance is the one I'd stick with. I run Xentec and they are cheap, but they aren't the greatest. I've never had any real problems with them, but nothing I do makes them stop flickering, and sometimes the bulbs I get from them are noticeably off in color. I'm looking into DDMTuning now.

I know the DC lvl 3s would be well within your budget, just email thorshammer for prices, they're pretty damn cheap. And a Fi SSD is just over 200 shipped.

It may seem pricey at first, but it's worth it to get a high output. My friend has 3500rms in his explorer with 3 batts, and it ate his stock alternator. He got a MechMan 270 and we can sit at full tilt all day and never see under 14v.

60? that's rough dude. Check the plug your alt uses, and the mounting points and count how many grooves your belt has. The one for the 2.4 may be interchangeable with the 3.0

send mechman a pm or email him. I know he ships worldwide.

I had stumbled across this site a long time ago, this is still my favorite product http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=22

My aunt and uncle used to buy cigarettes online, they bought them from Australia super cheap, but they said they tasted a little funny. Not sure how you go about doing it, I'd imagine it only requires a credit/debit card as you only need to be 18. I'd rather make my own cigarettes though, I can make a pack for less than $3.