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Edit > Delete Guides Just a little advise if you didn't know

Keep in mind my member title in this post, as I got no real experience with Kicker, other than hearing them in horrible prefab boxes.. So take of this as you will. He allready got the 15" subs? Then I would also suggest going with the one 15", as the measurements barely meets the recomended size for a single one. When you say he wants SPL does he just want loud on songs or does he plan on competing? Anyways, this is how I would try to do it for daily: -I used your max dimentions on height and dept, and 50" width giving the port room to breathe. As you can see there is a cutout for a 6" aeroport at the closest end. Assuming he gets one with at least 16" length I would try it full lenght at first (about 36hz tuning on my box) and cut it with 1 inch increments if deeded. - You might want do add something to keep the port steady aswell. - For saving on displacement and money I drew it with 3/4in wood in mind. - There should be some bracing between the front and the back of the box as they have large surfaces. - To take the bracing one step further you can add something that will push on the back of the magnet on the rear wall (but dont cover the pole vent). I'd say up to 1/16 of an inch between the mounting edge of the woofer and the front plate would be sufficient as the woofer rests on the "block" before tightening. - The front is transparrent for illustrating purposes only. -And ofc. you add a top plate By the way, if there is possible to gain room by angeling the front do it!

22hz Juice Box starts to sound like a copter The first time I bottomed out my sub was with a Fidelity test CD, stupid plate amp with its subsoniq fixed at f3 = 12hz.. Just sayin some of those CDs have nasty lows and at high quality.

Wouldn't just adding a woofer and a tweeter make the sound extremely unbalanced? Also that x-over is for 4ohm speaker so the x-over frequencies would be about a full octave off iirc. So unfortunately, no it won't work In addition, a crossover splitting between two 8ohm speakers would still have an 8ohm nominal impedance.

Then I would suggest findig a good stereo amp, or stereo reciever (same thing but with more connections and rado). But not PA.. I'm not familiar with what brands you run over there but stuff like Denon, Rotel and Nad are often used over here in EU. Then for speakers, like mentioned, look for finished speaker projects if you want to build something yourself. Or maybe you can find some companies that sell DIY sets with speakers, crossovers, box plans etc? I guess that's what bobobass is suggesting. For recording I'm sure there are some external sound cards for computers that can be hooked up to a decent mic. Or some recorder boxes he can use, like this: Boss br-1600

I'm a little confused, does he want a listening room or more of a studio?

Is this set like the other cheap ones I've seen where the ground wire is smaller than the power wire? (^now that belongs in the BS thread..)

It exists alot of information about the theories, mathematics and physical laws involved in enclosure designs out there. But it might be hard to find the really good ones. Sadly As I would also like to learn alot more. Trial and error is definitely a part of the whole thing, but you still need some knowledge to get an idea of what to do next to improve on your design. Not only about about the box itself but about the effects the the listening surroundings will have on the sound, but i guess this is a part where experience and trial is important. As for the "perfect box".. As I see it the perfect box would be one that acurately meets the intended owners requirements. And different recuirements in sound and output with all other possible aspects in mind calls for different style boxes.

Oh no, not this again!

I would recheck fuses, both in the car and under the hood.

lmao

From the picture, move the positive probe to the left one of the soldered connetions. Then the cap wont bother you, if I undersand those connetions right.

I helped a guy install a Sony XAV-60 about a week ago. I didn't get to really listen to it or play with it, but i watched as another guy set the time and date and stuff. It was slow and unresponsive so I guess there's something to theese negative reviews. And it seems like they are known for bad SQ. It seemed to have a lot of connections though, but that was pretty much it.

Without being very experienced myself, I think many think the tuning freq. itself is what desides how it will play, and isn't aware that it's only part of the equation to get the desired response.

wat.

Nice to see this actually happening, wish the video was ten times longer though!

My thoughts aswell. Sadly, because it looks like It's going to be a cool build.

Another thing to think about to get low, is to find a sub with a fairly low Fs (resonsance frequency. By having a low Fs makes it more effective on the lower notes, and also have a low tuned box. Physical size doesn't automaticly say good lows. I have 8" driver which, compared to the total output of DB's through its frequency range, will blow most other speakers away on the lows. But to be low AND loud, cone area and power is important, so don't get me wrong. Just don't think ONLY of size and quantity. Box desingn and build quality also have a lot to say.

I haven't tried it either, but the theory seems easy enough. If you want me to, i can try it on my system and let you know how it sounds and works. I have a very similar setup. When not connecting more speakers from the plate amp, i dont think so. It only needs a very small amount of power to run. And i can try to clarify something else for you as well, if you don't mind, the reciever (any amp) doesn't automaticly put out a sertain amount of Watts(on general), but is gives a sertain amount of Voltage, and the amount of wattage you get from those Volts depends directly on the Ohm load. Simple example: Say you have a 28V, with an 8ohm load you get roughly 100W.. Now if you have an ohm load of like 1000ohms which is likely very close to what the resistance is on the high-level inputs the Wattage is like 0.8W and the reciever really wont be affected. Yes, then it would be the same as connecting them right to the reciever. And your schematic is correct, except that L and R are switched......

Not on that amp, no..

That would be totally acceptable, but then you wil only get the signal from that channel, so when you want to swith from say iPod to TV sound, the sub wont follow.. So as i see it your best bet would be to go with the high-level outputs to the subamp on that reciever. On the low-pass filter: it does let through signals over the setting, but depending on the "steepness" (i don't remember the correct term in english) the soundcurve wil be steeper and it wil cut the higher frequencies more effectively. And if you have double filters, one in the reciever and one in the other amp, combined they wil give an even steeper cut. The reason i want to mention this is if you have "weak" front speakers you often need to adjust the sub higher to maintain volume output with both sub and midbass frequencies, but you wil also get more unwanted frequencies. And when your'e getting close to the frequencies that are higher than the sub likes to play, and in addition to subwoofer boxes with often no dampening, you can get bad resonance and generally bad sound. This is when you want to be able to have the most controll over the cutoff as possible. Or else it might just end up sounding like those horrible small home-theatre-package subs. These are just my toughts though.. And sorry if i got a bit carried away and this got long

The coaxials are the speakers with the tweeters mountet in them, the red/white signal cables are called RCA or phono cables. You can look for a reciever with a pre-out or dedicated sub-woofer output to connect to apm, or you can use the B-channel high level output on the reciever and connect them to the high level input on the plate amp with normal speaker wire. To wire the speakers in series you do just like you would do a sub: jumpwire from positive to negative between the terminals on the speakers and then the remaining positive and negative to the reviecer. But maybe you knew this...

I'd say look for a half decent(how cheap do you want this?) stereo-reciever and a 3-400W plate amp for the subs. Any reciever should have the basic connection options you need. Run the coaxials two at each channel at 8ohms (wire in series), and the subs to the plate amp like this:

As far as i can see that amp IS 2x300W @ 4Ohm But as he said, if you wire your coils in series(to 8ohms)you could bridge that amp to give 600W at 8Ohms. That way you are sure to get equal signal on both coils. The power wil split over the coils giving them 300W ea.

Yes, why car amp? I'm curious to why use them indoor, do you just get it really cheap?